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Old 08-09-2013, 01:51 PM   #1126
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ah ok then i missunderstood you^^
Im really looking forward to the d06.
until then I want to try to raise the topdeck about 0,5mm at the bulkheads and leave out the screws at the motor mount.
How do you plan on securing the layshaft down???
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #1127
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SD Racing: Im looking forward to hear your experiences
bkspeedo: How do you run your rollcenters? I have 0,5mm under suspension blocks in the front and 1mm in the rear.
I would suggest you go to .5mm or no shims at all in the rear, if you find your rear end is not hooking up. With your current setup (looking at roll centres) your front end is generating more grip than the rear.
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Old 08-10-2013, 12:24 AM   #1128
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Hm the thing with the layshaft is a good point. I don't know yet.

I don't have problems with a loose rear end but could use more traction all around.
When i leave out the screws at the motor mount as others suggested without raising the topdeck the flex is not much increases since the motor mount limits the movement of the topdeck.
Thats why I wanted to raise it. But now i don't know about the layshaft... it could move 0.5mm up and down then...
Maybe I csn secure the layshaft with a screw under the topdeck and raise the topdeck more than 0.5mm to make enough clearance for a screw underneath...
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Old 08-10-2013, 12:12 PM   #1129
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Hi guys,
Today I had the opportunity to test the car with only the screws in the bulkheads and 0.5mm underneath it. I did not secure the layshaft and everything was just fine. The car had much more traction overall and the times were good aswell. I ran 10.5 zero boost on asphalt.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:03 AM   #1130
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Ran the full flex chassis today, wasn't much of a test as I nailed the steel surround at the track and was out after 10 laps to do a repair, the track was very loose for all cars today,
then the next race after 15 laps the screw for the outer camber link was loose so it came out, but was pulling some good lap times.
the 3rd race and all things went well the car was feeling great, managed to be about .3 sec faster than the stock chassis car and I feel I can get faster times with some more tuning.
in the final pulled the same times as the 3rd race so it was consistent and the results was a 4th in the A final so I am happy for its first race day with a few problems.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:15 AM   #1131
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SD Racing: what class did you run and did you run on asphalt, too? Where the other cars dialed in the end and did you compare the two chassis at the same day?
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:39 AM   #1132
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SD Racing: what class did you run and did you run on asphalt, too? Where the other cars dialed in the end and did you compare the two chassis at the same day?
yep I run on asphalt, today was a very loose track the times of all usual cars were off by half a sec, and the cars that I was running with are the same club runners that hold fast times at the track. I run 17.5 boosted class and both the cars were run today. my times were approx .3 to .4 off the faster cars per lap.
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Old 08-15-2013, 02:18 PM   #1133
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Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I created a D06 thread. The car is different in a number of ways and it deserves its own thread.
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:00 PM   #1134
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Anyone know of a set of steel dif gears that will fit in the dif insted of the carbon ones
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:37 AM   #1135
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Just picked up a used DB05 does anyone have a decent VTA starting set-up for medium grip carpet? Thanks
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:54 AM   #1136
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Speaking of VTA... will the "Ghost" be out in the next month or 2? I have VTA racing funds burning a hole in my pocket!
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:06 AM   #1137
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Just picked up a used DB05 does anyone have a decent VTA starting set-up for medium grip carpet? Thanks
Dave Johnson's setups are always a good place to start. You can find one of his medium bite carpet setups HERE
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:31 AM   #1138
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Whats the difference between the e and f pivot blocks. Also what is the difference between changing toe from the outboard pivot blocks or the inboard split blocks? I would also like to know the differences in the belts. Regular, reinforced, and SS. If it make a difference in what belt I should get I will be racing in VTA or an outside chance of 17.5. But thats the fastest I will run.

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:55 AM   #1139
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Whats the difference between the e and f pivot blocks. Also what is the difference between changing toe from the outboard pivot blocks or the inboard split blocks? I would also like to know the differences in the belts. Regular, reinforced, and SS. If it make a difference in what belt I should get I will be racing in VTA or an outside chance of 17.5. But thats the fastest I will run.

Thanks
Good questions!

The F and E letters are to differentiate the front and rear suspension mounts. The front suspension mounts are only produced in F00, F05 and F10, which will widen the car at the front in 0, .05 and 1 increments. Additionally, the F00 can be used at the front rear to smooth the car and make it less aggressive and can also be used at the rear front instead of the split center suspension mounts.

The changes from adjusting the overall width of the car at the center, is a car that is more stable to drive and feels more locked in. When using the C05 or C10 center suspension mounts at the front rear of the car, be sure that you also change the E suspension mount to maintain proper toe-in as your toe-in will be increased by the amount of the C center suspension mount that was used. As an example, I am currently running the C05 F/R suspension mount with the E20 suspension mount as I want to maintain 2.5 of rear toe-in (Simply add C # to E# for toe value). This weekend, I will most likely be running the C10 F/R suspension mount with the E15 suspension block.

The only belts that fit the VBC Racing Wire D06 are the D06 belts. The SS and Type R belts from the previous VBC car do not fit.

Hopefully this all makes sense.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:47 AM   #1140
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Ok that makes sense about the blocks. But still confused about belts for the D05. Which are the better belts and why?
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