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Old 11-28-2012, 12:10 PM   #766
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I have an interesting issue and hope a few of you can give me a few ideas on what to check. I raced this last saturday and had two good (bad ) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend.

I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
I will assume you checked toe after building the kit and it was correct?
One thing you should check is the wheel hex. Me for example, out the box i had the same issues as you. I tried new block holder and still had a big difference. I took hexes from another car and BAM, perfect!
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:47 PM   #767
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i had kinda been hoping that they were going to stick with that acid green and black look but once again ive been disappointed =/ guess ill stick with my plan and go back to a tc6.1
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:35 PM   #768
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Originally Posted by nwv327 View Post
i had kinda been hoping that they were going to stick with that acid green and black look but once again ive been disappointed =/ guess ill stick with my plan and go back to a tc6.1
You pick a car based solely on color?
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:45 PM   #769
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Originally Posted by Reese Bobby View Post
Hi Odin,

It seems like the front and rear blocks might not be aligned due to the left side being +1 degree and the right -1 (ie -2 and -4) degree relative to the expected -3 left and right. (Sounds like the LHS of the car was impacted). Failing that, I suppose its also worth checking that the hub and hub carrier are not also damaged. Not sure if you observed the toe while the wheel rotates? Curious to know what the answer is, please keep us posted.
Yes the left hand side was impacted. I did not check the outer hinge pin to see if it was bent though since it went in smooth. But with both sides being off slightly leads me to think its possibly in the rear toe block. Maybe I even tweaked one of the screws that holds it?

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Originally Posted by stro3579 View Post
Odin, if all of your hubs are ok. Try and loosen the srews on your rear toe blocks and possibly the front center blocks. Then try and reseat everything. I had this issue with buliding a brand new car and this seem to help. Keep us posted on your findings.
I did loosen the rear toe blocks and it did seem to help some. I'll completely disassemble the rear this weekend and closely inspect each piece though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I will assume you checked toe after building the kit and it was correct?
One thing you should check is the wheel hex. Me for example, out the box i had the same issues as you. I tried new block holder and still had a big difference. I took hexes from another car and BAM, perfect!
I did check it when I first built it and everything was spot on. I'll check the wheel hex as well as the rear axles. I was at full speed towards the end of the straight when I clipped it. So it could have easily done quite a bit of damage that I just didn't notice.

All good suggestions guys. Thanks. I'll post up when I find the culprit.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:47 PM   #770
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Dave Johnson wins 17.5 TC at the US Indoor Champs in Cleveland.

Brian Wynn wins VTA.

Both using a VBC Wildfire.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #771
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Originally Posted by ChuckNasty View Post
Dave Johnson wins 17.5 TC at the US Indoor Champs in Cleveland.

Brian Wynn wins VTA.

Both using a VBC Wildfire.
Congrats on the awesome performance Guys.....

And so the Campaign continues.

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Old 11-30-2012, 09:53 AM   #772
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Default New option parts

http://www.redrc.net/2012/11/vbc-rac...ts/#more-60270
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:21 PM   #773
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Question for you guys...

Running my Wildfire on our small (70x30ft ish) carpet track. 17.5 Blinky. I'm having an issue that I can't seem to get resolved and not really certain what is causing it. We have a 180 sweeper off the straight, with about a 135 turn at the end of the sweeper. My car drives pretty well except that I feel like if I steer too hard, it will swap ends on me. I notice it most at the end of the sweeper above. On some of the other corners I feel like it is close to giving out the rear end, but never really does unless I screw up and give a little too much steering.

I wouldn't say it oversteers on power, mid corner or entry, but wouldn't say it pushes either. Just seems to happen when I get deep into steering.

I've tried softer rear springs, stiffer front springs. Tried all sway bars (front and rear), no sway bar (front and rear). Leaned the shocks all the way in on rear, all the way up in front, changed the wheel base to longer/shorter, changed the wheel base to move the chassis forward/backwards, swapped shocks left to right, rebuilt the shocks twice, rebuilt the diff and spool once (1000wt in diff), tried 3 sets of tires (2 sets of Sweep blues, 1 set of Jaco Blues, brand new, run-in, and old). I've tried no traction compound on front (pushes like crazy), none on rear or front, front only, half front etc etc.

The only thing I've changed recently was the front drive shafts (went to the double joints).

Any ideas?

Most everyone here is running 1000wt in the diff. Should I be running anything different? Medium grip carpet...

Thanks!
Seth

Track video, with current layout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX2Higo51ig
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:27 PM   #774
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What is your setup?
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Question for you guys...

Running my Wildfire on our small (70x30ft ish) carpet track. 17.5 Blinky. I'm having an issue that I can't seem to get resolved and not really certain what is causing it. We have a 180 sweeper off the straight, with about a 135 turn at the end of the sweeper. My car drives pretty well except that I feel like if I steer too hard, it will swap ends on me. I notice it most at the end of the sweeper above. On some of the other corners I feel like it is close to giving out the rear end, but never really does unless I screw up and give a little too much steering.

I wouldn't say it oversteers on power, mid corner or entry, but wouldn't say it pushes either. Just seems to happen when I get deep into steering.

I've tried softer rear springs, stiffer front springs. Tried all sway bars (front and rear), no sway bar (front and rear). Leaned the shocks all the way in on rear, all the way up in front, changed the wheel base to longer/shorter, changed the wheel base to move the chassis forward/backwards, swapped shocks left to right, rebuilt the shocks twice, rebuilt the diff and spool once (1000wt in diff), tried 3 sets of tires (2 sets of Sweep blues, 1 set of Jaco Blues, brand new, run-in, and old). I've tried no traction compound on front (pushes like crazy), none on rear or front, front only, half front etc etc.

The only thing I've changed recently was the front drive shafts (went to the double joints).

Any ideas?

Most everyone here is running 1000wt in the diff. Should I be running anything different? Medium grip carpet...

Thanks!
Seth

Track video, with current layout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX2Higo51ig
Have you tried adjusting your droop? Maybe you don't have enough rear droop and one wheel is coming off the carpet? You can also try lengthening the front camber link or shortening the rear camber link to adjust your camber gain. And you can start playing with your roll center.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:40 PM   #776
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Its been all over the board trying to get this issue fixed.

Generally speaking this is where I left off today:

Sweep Blues
Ride height - 5mm f/r

Front
0.5 toe out
1.5 camber

Arms in middle

Red Springs
Top, 2nd hole out
Bottom, outermost hole

Camber link
3rd hole out on camber block, 2mm spacer

Steering links - rear most hole

Droop is 3 on Dynamite droop gauge

Red swaybar

Belt, medium

Rear
Toe, stock, 3 deg I think?
1.5 camber

Arms forward (1 1mm spacer forward)

Orange rear springs
Top, 3rd hole out
Bottom, outermost hole

Camber link
3rd hole out on camber block, 3mm spacer
outermost hole on hub

Droop is 3 on dynamite gauge

Red swaybar

Belt, loose


Orion 17.5
Tekin RS
JRS9100Z servo
49T pinion
96T Spur
1000wt diff oil
Protoform LTCR

At first I thought, maybe I've made the rear too soft and the rear of the chassis is hitting the ground as it rolls in the corners more causing it to lose a little rear grip, but I stiffened the rear quite a bit and didn't notice much difference (other than the rear getting really loose obviously)

Am I missing anything?
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #777
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Have you tried adjusting your droop? Maybe you don't have enough rear droop and one wheel is coming off the carpet? You can also try lengthening the front camber link or shortening the rear camber link to adjust your camber gain. And you can start playing with your roll center.
Yup, tried the droop and camber links today. I started with 0 droop and backed the screws out 1 turn at a time for both front and rear individually. Tried every camber link position possible (besides raising/lowering ball studs, only had a couple hours).

Also, after running it last night, I brought the car home and checked all the hinge pins and shock shafts to make sure none were bent. Spent some time to free up the arms a little. Car seemed smoother today after freeing it up a bit more, but still had the same problem.

Seth
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #778
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What shock oil are you running front and rear? Also what shimming on your steering rack?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Its been all over the board trying to get this issue fixed.

Generally speaking this is where I left off today:

Sweep Blues
Ride height - 5mm f/r

Front
0.5 toe out
1.5 camber

Arms in middle

Red Springs
Top, 2nd hole out
Bottom, outermost hole

Camber link
3rd hole out on camber block, 2mm spacer

Steering links - rear most hole

Droop is 3 on Dynamite droop gauge

Red swaybar

Belt, medium

Rear
Toe, stock, 3 deg I think?
1.5 camber

Arms forward (1 1mm spacer forward)

Orange rear springs
Top, 3rd hole out
Bottom, outermost hole

Camber link
3rd hole out on camber block, 3mm spacer
outermost hole on hub

Droop is 3 on dynamite gauge

Red swaybar

Belt, loose


Orion 17.5
Tekin RS
JRS9100Z servo
49T pinion
96T Spur
1000wt diff oil
Protoform LTCR

At first I thought, maybe I've made the rear too soft and the rear of the chassis is hitting the ground as it rolls in the corners more causing it to lose a little rear grip, but I stiffened the rear quite a bit and didn't notice much difference (other than the rear getting really loose obviously)

Am I missing anything?
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:59 PM   #779
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Originally Posted by Ron Goetter View Post
What shock oil are you running front and rear? Also what swimming on your steering rack?
Losi 35 in rear, 42.5 up front

Do you mean shimming? Steering rack is box stock.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:20 AM   #780
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Sounds like a classic weight distribution issue to me. Try moving weight forwards any way possible. Or move both front and rear wishbones backwards which will also move the WD forwards, but well have side effects on drive shaft angle
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