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Old 11-11-2012, 11:59 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by onearmbandit View Post
Thanks !
Problem solved

Greg; Im workin on getting a VBC, shhhhhh......
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:09 AM   #752
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Try around 6.5 FDR to start.


4.0 is a starting point for blinky. It's far too low for boosted.


Re: results from the Halloween Classic.
Nice job guys. Great driving Dave! I watched the races from Dirla's ustream. Sounded like everyone was having a good time.

Sorry, I over read the boosted part. Thought it was blinky.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:38 PM   #753
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Greg; Im workin on getting a VBC, shhhhhh......
HUH??
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:25 AM   #754
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Any new info on the floating servo mounts? Eta on when they will be available??
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:54 AM   #755
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Any new info on the floating servo mounts? Eta on when they will be available??
in stock...

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719461

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Old 11-16-2012, 08:16 AM   #756
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If anyone is looking for a VBC wildfire with extras, please PM me.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:06 PM   #757
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Default shock caps

I see some people are drilling holes in the shock caps. Is there a diagram on where to drill and the reason for it?
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:21 PM   #758
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Just a 1mm hole to vent above the bladder so you can get zero rebound.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:01 PM   #759
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Default BELT SIZES

Anyone have a replacement belt suggestion or know what the TOOTH count
is on the belts?
Or what belts are options on the VBC Wildfire
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:34 PM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onearmbandit View Post
Anyone have a replacement belt suggestion or know what the TOOTH count
is on the belts?
Or what belts are options on the VBC Wildfire
Here are the type R belts. They hold up much better then stock belts.

rear:
http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719398

front:
http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7719397
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:56 PM   #761
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Anyone got part numbers for the conversion of the front C-hubs and knuckles?

Thanks
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:54 AM   #762
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Hi All,

I was wondering if anyone has given the Flex Chassis a try? Was there a noticeable difference?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:56 PM   #763
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I have an interesting issue and hope a few of you can give me a few ideas on what to check. I raced this last saturday and had two good (bad ) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend.

I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:53 AM   #764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I have an interesting issue and hope a few of you can give me a few ideas on what to check. I raced this last saturday and had two good (bad ) crashes. Both times I clipped the outside PVC pipe joint (where the PVC pipe slips together) and it ripped an arm off both times. First time it was the front arm. Second time it was the rear arm. I'm not surprised it broke an arm at all with how fast I was going when I clipped it. Thats not the issue. The issue is after fixing the second one (rear arm) I had it on the setup station and was checking everything. Decided to toss the toe gauge on the rear and noticed that the left was at 2 degrees in, and the right side was at 4 degrees in. I have the box toe blocks 3.0 in the rear and 0 in the front. So I should have 3.0 in on both sides. I did loosen the screws holding the toe blocks and got it to 2.5L and 3.5R I haven't had time to mess with it since but will have time this coming weekend.

I did replace the hinge pin as it was slightly bent. It seemed to bind as I rotated it in the new arm at a certain spot. Could I have bent the toe blocks?
Hi Odin,

It seems like the front and rear blocks might not be aligned due to the left side being +1 degree and the right -1 (ie -2 and -4) degree relative to the expected -3 left and right. (Sounds like the LHS of the car was impacted). Failing that, I suppose its also worth checking that the hub and hub carrier are not also damaged. Not sure if you observed the toe while the wheel rotates? Curious to know what the answer is, please keep us posted.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:27 AM   #765
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Odin, if all of your hubs are ok. Try and loosen the srews on your rear toe blocks and possibly the front center blocks. Then try and reseat everything. I had this issue with buliding a brand new car and this seem to help. Keep us posted on your findings.
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