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Old 08-10-2012, 06:13 AM   #301
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Dumb question for those of you who leaked from the diff....did you tighten it using a star pattern at equal tightness levels? or just go around in a circle?
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:51 AM   #302
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
LOL! You did get one. That's funny man. I finished mine last night. I was too lazy to take a pic and my wiring isn't exactly Larry or Goat style.

Maybe I'll convince Goat to clean it up for me. ROAD HOUSE!
That might not work on the goat anymore.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:39 AM   #303
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That might not work on the goat anymore.
That wasn't a food reference. That was a Family Guy reference.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:51 AM   #304
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Dumb question for those of you who leaked from the diff....did you tighten it using a star pattern at equal tightness levels? or just go around in a circle?
Nolan,

One little tip that might help...

Since I've been racing a lot of 8th scale and those diffs love to leak too, I tend to use different silicone sealants on gear diffs. I've been using Yamabond #5. It dries as a rubber type seal in addition to the paper seal and no leaks what so ever.

It's also easy to remove when you open the diff up as it's not permanent.

I tightened mine in a star pattern and didn't put any Yamabond on it so I'll find out tomorrow if it's going to leak. They usually seep a little, no matter what brand, then it stops once the overfill is gone.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:19 AM   #305
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Does anyone have the stock spring weights in a pound rating? Are they 16lb, 10lb etc. Looking to try some other springs other than the White and Reds in the kit but was looking for a standard lb rating as to compare to like Associated weights.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #306
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Does anyone have the stock spring weights in a pound rating? Are they 16lb, 10lb etc. Looking to try some other springs other than the White and Reds in the kit but was looking for a standard lb rating as to compare to like Associated weights.
Brian, if I have my calculations right...

VBC Green = 2.8kgf/mm = ~15.5lb
VBC Red = 3.0kgf/mm = ~16.3lb
VBC Orange = 3.1kgf/mm = ~17.3lb
VBC White = 3.3kgf/mm = ~18.3lb

There can be some differences depending on if the springs are linear or progressive and the number of coils. These are just ball park numbers considering the conversion tool I used. They can be off give or take .5 lb.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:46 PM   #307
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That wasn't a food reference. That was a Family Guy reference.
Ghost.
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:36 PM   #308
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
Brian, if I have my calculations right...

VBC Green = 2.8kgf/mm = ~15.5lb
VBC Red = 3.0kgf/mm = ~16.3lb
VBC Orange = 3.1kgf/mm = ~17.3lb
VBC White = 3.3kgf/mm = ~18.3lb

There can be some differences depending on if the springs are linear or progressive and the number of coils. These are just ball park numbers considering the conversion tool I used. They can be off give or take .5 lb.
You are the man. Thanks
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #309
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Someone is getting closer!
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
LOL! You did get one. That's funny man. I finished mine last night. I was too lazy to take a pic and my wiring isn't exactly Larry or Goat style.

Maybe I'll convince Goat to clean it up for me. ROAD HOUSE!

big smile dudes!
it's on a little small brown truck somewhere midwest.

watch out guys...the infamous Schreff is back on rubber slicks...
we will have a plethora of information on this thread.

----I always wanted to use the word!! (plethora)

RU....you know you need something different...it's time for a little gun metal goodness.
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:58 PM   #310
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:17 PM   #311
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Well guys, my first official race day on the Wildfire is in the books and I couldn't be happier with how things went.

When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.

First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.

After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.

The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:31 PM   #312
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Originally Posted by schreff View Post
Well guys, my first official race day on the Wildfire is in the books and I couldn't be happier with how things went.

When I built the car, I basically did most of the kit setup with some of my own very minor changes. I used Losi 40wt oil in the shocks, had about 50% rebound, and did not drill the caps. I will do that next time to try it further. I also ran the car with the bars disconnected as our asphalt track is very tight with a lot of low speed corners. It's basically an asphalt carpet track if you can imagine such a thing. The rest of the setup, including springs, pistons, arm spacing, roll centers, and camber link positions were all kit setup. I also did not run ECS style front shafts as I have none right now.

First time on the track, it took me a little to get back into the swing of things with not running a touring car for close to 5 months. The first 2 hot laps, I nailed a chicane at full speed (bonehead move) and sent the car flying. I basically ruined the body in a matter of 5 minutes. The best part, not 1 broken part! This car can take some crazy hits. Heck, in one qualifier, I hit another car that was spun on the straight and ripped the entire rear suspension off the other car. My car just had the body all punched in and I pulled it off thinking mine was broke too. Instead, just a screw pulled out of a rear body post, which was my fault for not putting a long enough one in anyway.

After I was done driving like a moron and wrecking the car, I got into the swing of driving again and WOW is this car lethal. It's smooth, carries high speed corners awesome, and transitions very quickly in low speed corners. It's also very easy on tires and very consistent through a run. I changed very minor items throughout the day (mainly camber and rear camber link position) and each change was subtle enough to make the car a little quicker, but not sacrifice drive-ability. The guys at my local track definitely saw how good the car was with "out of the box" stuff and that's a huge selling point.

The next time I hit the track will be on carpet and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll definitely learn some good stuff there and post info for folks running on carpet. VBC and CRC have a winner here and it's going to be an awesome winter season. It may even make me stop running offroad for a while and get me to hit some big TC races.
I love reading sponsored guys first run with a new car posts, this one did not disappoint either car is Lethal
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:31 PM   #313
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Just finished building the car, everything seems to be very good except the spur and pinion setup. I fitted a Kimbrough spur which clears fine but I realized while fitting the motor that it's going to be a bitch to tighten one of the motor screws but that's not that big of a deal. The main problem is that I am using the Epic Trinity pinions and they rub on the top deck (both sides), should I start using PRS or any other narrow pinions or just sand the inside of the top deck so the Epic pinions fit?
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:49 PM   #314
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I saw, held and I witnessed what this car has.
Must say I've never seen a car come alive so quick, it's an eye opener to see Screff take the car with confidence.....once he saw the car was durable he started to push it.

Car took turns like it had wings......this is my next ride period. The quality is shown throughout the car.

Way to go VBC
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:50 PM   #315
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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Just finished building the car, everything seems to be very good except the spur and pinion setup. I fitted a Kimbrough spur which clears fine but I realized while fitting the motor that it's going to be a bitch to tighten one of the motor screws but that's not that big of a deal. The main problem is that I am using the Epic Trinity pinions and they rub on the top deck (both sides), should I start using PRS or any other narrow pinions or just sand the inside of the top deck so the Epic pinions fit?
This is the same on almost every car when running blinky. I have 417, xray, robitronic, all the same with the motor screws. What you do is tighten the front screw to set mesh then take top deck off and pull layshaft up to tighten other screw.
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