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Old 12-31-2014, 03:01 AM   #481
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Old dude, that sounds cool! Am I correct to assume that this might be possible with my CRC SE? Does the WTF1 use SAE axle and bearings with 14mm rear hexes?
I confirm , WTF1 is using an imperial mesure for the axe and 14mm for the hexes
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:06 AM   #482
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I confirm , WTF1 is using an imperial mesure for the axe and 14mm for the hexes
It uses the standard 1/4" rear axle but with the hex hubs on the rear. You do need to get the axle for the WTF1 because of some dimensional differences in length to fit in the diff hub. The front is a different axle for metric bearings but is goes right into the knuckle that you already have (replacing the 1/8" ones).
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:15 AM   #483
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Thank you, Ph3nyx and Old Dude. This could be a fun car to run!
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:43 AM   #484
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I think that the Spec GT class that they are running at Snowbirds would be alot of fun using the rules that they have, just adding these tires. The cars would look really cool.

Here is a little known fact.... When WGT was invented in its current form a few years back, one of the companies that was involved actually made a couple of prototype sets of hubs so you could run TC tires at ALL 4 corners. The idea was that there was already lots of TC tires available so no new tires would have to be made. It was bolt on and go. I believe it was tried by some of the staff at a parking lot race and it worked just fine.

These F1 tires work well in F1. The oval car we outfitted runs well too. You actually have to drive the cars. If you have a CRC car all of these parts are bolt on. No custom fitting needed.
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:50 PM   #485
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Dumper,

For the "intelligence disinclined" among us, would you be able to provide part numbers? I have an SE and a couple of LEs. This would be AWESOME on one of the LEs. Wonder if Dave Willits and the Spec17.5GT folks have tried this yet? With the Exotek +3mm wheels, they would probably be a GREAT fit on 200mm bodies required in Spec17.5GT.
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:54 PM   #486
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I am not in the office at the moment. When I get back there I will post up the part numbers and descriptions.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:44 PM   #487
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Not speaking for Dave but we have been using GQ Spec tires and they work fine indoors and last week we ran them out doors. There is video of some of the qualifiers and the main ( strickland's r/c in Florida on utube).The cars ran best with nothing on the tires (on sugar water).Dave has been working on establishing this class for over a year at Jeff's track in Fort Myers. I don't think he will change the tires as he wants the cars to look like realistic race cars. TC tires just do not the realistic effect for the class.
Before they can up with the WGT name I tried for several years to get this going(in our state series) with several manufacturers before BMI came up with a name and some rules.After BMI and Adrian started calling it WGT and using GT bodies it took off.
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Last edited by BullFrog; 12-31-2014 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 01-02-2015, 08:28 AM   #488
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Ok, here is what is needed for converting a CRC WGT car to F1 tires:

Front End:

1535 - F1 Steel Stub Axle (Assuming you already have the steering block for the 1/8th" axles)

1549 - 5x10 unflanged bearings (ours or anybody else's work work)

1529 - 5mm Plastic Spacer F1 Front axle (you need some shims for the front axles due to the offset of the front wheels. These are nothing special, just thicker to use a lower number of shims. So again, whether it is ours or not, you will need some shims to take up some space)

1499 - M4 Locknut (We use non flanged locknuts in the front. Once again ours or not, does not matter but has to be M4 unflanged)



Rear End:

1528 - Graphite Axle w/4mm Stud

1533 - F1 Left Clamp Hub

1376 - 4-40 x 3/8" Steel Cap Head Screw (These are the same ones that are in the Left clamp hub you are replacing, so you can use those)

1525 - F1 Diff Hub

1499 - M4 Locknut (You have to use a M4 unflanged locknut on the diff)

1526 - F1 Pin Drive Cap (This includes the cap, pin, and set screw. You must use a .035 wrench to tighten the set screw, same as the damper tubes)

1499 & 1532 - M4 Locknut and #8 Washer F1 Rear Wheel (We use a M4 locknut and a washer to hold the rear wheels on. If you can find a M4 flanged locknut, that will replace these parts.

You will need some 1/4" ID shims for the rear axle to get the rear axle to the desired width. Make sure to check Left and Right to make sure the spacing is the same on the rear axle.

The diff itself assembles exactly the same, just replace the axle, left hub, diff hub and diff nut. Add the pin drive cup, pin and set screw and it is done. When assembling, do not put the pin and set screw in until you are happy with the diff setting. You can just slide the right rear tire on without the cup, pin and set screw to check the diff tightness. Once happy with that, then add the cup, pin and set screw.

Now, do to the large size of the F1 tires, you will have to adjust the ride height accordingly. In the front, you will have to use 5mm front blocks, and some #4262 shims. How many depends on what tires you decide to use. For the rear, things get as little more complicated. With the stock slider pod on the SE and F1 tires, the rear ride height ends up being around 6mm. You may be able to lower it a little by doing some grinding on the back of the pod plates so the sliders can move a little more. You may be able to gain .5mm or so doing this.

Another option is getting #3440 F1 Motor Plate and #3442 F1 Left Side Pod Plate. You can use the #33411 Slider Bearing Carriers you already have from the SE. Using the stock SE bottom plate put the screw in the front hole of each pod plate. Once you have done this, you will see that the rear holes do not line up. Using the rear hole as a guide, you will need to drill and tap a hole in the pod plates so it lines up with the rear hole on the bottom plate. This is what we did on the oval car that Old Dude was talking about. As of right now, we do not make a bottom plate that takes the F1 pod plates (other than the F1 bottom plate, but it does not fit the SE or the oval car for that matter) If there is enough interest in the future, we can make a bottom plate to make this step easier. There is enough meat on the pod plates to drill and tap a new hole if you want to go this route, but it is more advanced work.

Wheels and Tires:

Right now, the TCS tires #TAM1031 and #TAM1032 are the most popular tires at the F1 races. You will need #TAM51378 (black) or #TAM54400 (chrome-ish) rims to mount these. Pit Shimizu tires are also popular, you would use the same rims. Tuning Haus rims also work, but have a slightly different offset, just need a little different shimming, but come in more colors.
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Old 01-02-2015, 08:36 AM   #489
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Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
Not speaking for Dave but we have been using GQ Spec tires and they work fine indoors and last week we ran them out doors. There is video of some of the qualifiers and the main ( strickland's r/c in Florida on utube).The cars ran best with nothing on the tires (on sugar water).Dave has been working on establishing this class for over a year at Jeff's track in Fort Myers. I don't think he will change the tires as he wants the cars to look like realistic race cars. TC tires just do not the realistic effect for the class.
Before they can up with the WGT name I tried for several years to get this going(in our state series) with several manufacturers before BMI came up with a name and some rules.After BMI and Adrian started calling it WGT and using GT bodies it took off.
No one is talking about using TC tires. We are talking about using F1 tires which look 100 times more realistic than WGT tires. The wheel wells on the bodies listed for the class are made for rubber tires, that is why they are so big. Obviously at this stage, F1 tires on WGT cars are not a viable option as it is not an easy switch for most people.

But here is an example of why F1 tires are better. In Vegas I was TQ and finished second. At the Halloween race I was TQ and finished first. At the US Indoor Champs, I was TQ and finished first. All three of these F1 results were on the same exact four tires. Three big races, three good results, 1 set of tires. You can not do that on foam tires.
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:42 PM   #490
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Dumper,

Once again, you prove why you are "The Man"!! Thank you!

Scott
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Old 01-02-2015, 05:03 PM   #491
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
Three big races, three good results, 1 set of tires. You can not do that on foam tires.
I've been running the same set of WGT spec foam tires for two months now. Some practice, 2 qualifiers and a main equals about .5mm of wear. Fronts are good for one more race (cut them smaller for traction roll avoidance) but the rears I will be running for at least two more months.
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:01 PM   #492
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Ok, here is what is needed for converting a CRC WGT car to F1 tires:

Front End:

1535 - F1 Steel Stub Axle (Assuming you already have the steering block for the 1/8th" axles)

1549 - 5x10 unflanged bearings (ours or anybody else's work work)

1529 - 5mm Plastic Spacer F1 Front axle (you need some shims for the front axles due to the offset of the front wheels. These are nothing special, just thicker to use a lower number of shims. So again, whether it is ours or not, you will need some shims to take up some space)

1499 - M4 Locknut (We use non flanged locknuts in the front. Once again ours or not, does not matter but has to be M4 unflanged)



Rear End:

1528 - Graphite Axle w/4mm Stud

1533 - F1 Left Clamp Hub

1376 - 4-40 x 3/8" Steel Cap Head Screw (These are the same ones that are in the Left clamp hub you are replacing, so you can use those)

1525 - F1 Diff Hub

1499 - M4 Locknut (You have to use a M4 unflanged locknut on the diff)

1526 - F1 Pin Drive Cap (This includes the cap, pin, and set screw. You must use a .035 wrench to tighten the set screw, same as the damper tubes)

1499 & 1532 - M4 Locknut and #8 Washer F1 Rear Wheel (We use a M4 locknut and a washer to hold the rear wheels on. If you can find a M4 flanged locknut, that will replace these parts.

You will need some 1/4" ID shims for the rear axle to get the rear axle to the desired width. Make sure to check Left and Right to make sure the spacing is the same on the rear axle.

The diff itself assembles exactly the same, just replace the axle, left hub, diff hub and diff nut. Add the pin drive cup, pin and set screw and it is done. When assembling, do not put the pin and set screw in until you are happy with the diff setting. You can just slide the right rear tire on without the cup, pin and set screw to check the diff tightness. Once happy with that, then add the cup, pin and set screw.

Now, do to the large size of the F1 tires, you will have to adjust the ride height accordingly. In the front, you will have to use 5mm front blocks, and some #4262 shims. How many depends on what tires you decide to use. For the rear, things get as little more complicated. With the stock slider pod on the SE and F1 tires, the rear ride height ends up being around 6mm. You may be able to lower it a little by doing some grinding on the back of the pod plates so the sliders can move a little more. You may be able to gain .5mm or so doing this.

Another option is getting #3440 F1 Motor Plate and #3442 F1 Left Side Pod Plate. You can use the #33411 Slider Bearing Carriers you already have from the SE. Using the stock SE bottom plate put the screw in the front hole of each pod plate. Once you have done this, you will see that the rear holes do not line up. Using the rear hole as a guide, you will need to drill and tap a hole in the pod plates so it lines up with the rear hole on the bottom plate. This is what we did on the oval car that Old Dude was talking about. As of right now, we do not make a bottom plate that takes the F1 pod plates (other than the F1 bottom plate, but it does not fit the SE or the oval car for that matter) If there is enough interest in the future, we can make a bottom plate to make this step easier. There is enough meat on the pod plates to drill and tap a new hole if you want to go this route, but it is more advanced work.

Wheels and Tires:

Right now, the TCS tires #TAM1031 and #TAM1032 are the most popular tires at the F1 races. You will need #TAM51378 (black) or #TAM54400 (chrome-ish) rims to mount these. Pit Shimizu tires are also popular, you would use the same rims. Tuning Haus rims also work, but have a slightly different offset, just need a little different shimming, but come in more colors.
Brian, do I see a CRC one part SKU conversion kit coming down the road?
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Old 01-03-2015, 06:42 AM   #493
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We are running foam tires at the birds with the spec175 GT class.One big advantage is they (SPEC WGT) work but indoors and out doors. You can find them anywhere.
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Last edited by BullFrog; 01-03-2015 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 01-09-2015, 03:51 PM   #494
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General tire question for you guys...

I am planning to run WGT at my local indoor track, I know they normally run spec tires. My question is, on practice days, I'd like to run some non-spec foams. What shore would be good for a smooth carpet track? Approximately what shore are spec tires like those from JACO?

Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2015, 04:09 PM   #495
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The spec tires are lilacs and they work great, really no need to run anything else unless you're also going to run a lot more power.
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