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Old 07-18-2013, 11:30 AM   #376
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Hey people,

WGT is starting to take off at our track now...finally! Right now my BMI Copperhead 10 is doing well...won the first race But I'm having an issue where the front wheels kind of stutter or shudder when going through the corners. It seems to hold its line fine and feels like it has good enough grip so I'm not sure what would cause this to happen. At first I thought I might need to put more angle on the caster blocks but the TOP Rebel that runs there too is also running 0* caster blocks and not having this issue. Any ideas what could be causing it?
Two (of many) possible reasons are: insufficient front damping, or a chassis that is not rigid enough (usually in torsion). I never ran my BMI on asphalt, and never encountered that problem with it.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:54 AM   #377
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Thanks Howard. I'll try upping the dampening on the front king pins. The chassis is pretty rigid already so I doubt that is it. Or maybe it is too rigid? My old DB10 which has a lot more cut outs in the chassis doesn't seem to have the same issue.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:16 PM   #378
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Thanks Howard. I'll try upping the dampening on the front king pins. The chassis is pretty rigid already so I doubt that is it. Or maybe it is too rigid? My old DB10 which has a lot more cut outs in the chassis doesn't seem to have the same issue.
Okay, I'll say it, since very few others will: if the car has a proper suspension, then the chassis can NEVER be too rigid.

One other thing to check: sometimes the suspension can be too stiff, causing the tire to be the dominant suspension member. Since tires tend to have fairly low damping, that can result in uncontrolled bouncing. Going softer on the springs, and changing the damping to match, can help in that situation.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:33 PM   #379
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That's something I've always felt too...but it seems so many manufacturers want to tune with chassis flex. I'm not sure if I have softer springs but I'll look around.

Edit: Good news I found my other set of springs. As it turns out I had the .22 springs on for carpet and found my stock .20 springs. Hopefully that will cure the problem

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Old 07-18-2013, 08:09 PM   #380
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Hey people,

WGT is starting to take off at our track now...finally! Right now my BMI Copperhead 10 is doing well...won the first race But I'm having an issue where the front wheels kind of stutter or shudder when going through the corners. It seems to hold its line fine and feels like it has good enough grip so I'm not sure what would cause this to happen. At first I thought I might need to put more angle on the caster blocks but the TOP Rebel that runs there too is also running 0* caster blocks and not having this issue. Any ideas what could be causing it?
Burt,

Only ran 0 degree caster blocks one time on my old CRC WGT Pro and the front end shuddered badly on asphalt.

Otherwise, I typically use 10 degree blocks on my LE.

Gotta find a way to get myself to your track.

Bill
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:22 PM   #381
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That you do Bill Well at least as long as I am out here...all depends on where I find my next job.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:46 AM   #382
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You know whats funny,a 12 year old [my son AJ ],won the last 2 weeks in a row.
Most of the cars are so evenly matched ,I tried 4 different motor brands and they all turned the same lap times.Only slight variations in acceleration/top end.

Its all driving in this class.
You have a PM
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:44 PM   #383
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I like the requirement of changing bodies regularly. It seems more interesting than just using the same style over and over, and gives the opportunity for a little more realism.

That's one tiny track you have there! The 17.5 motors look very well suited to it.
When we ran 1/8 pan cars in the 70's, I can remember using four different bodies for four different series over a two year period. We ran CanAm, GT bodies (Porsche Carrera style), Formula bodies (I ran a Tecno) and these were more half bodies because the rear of the car wasn't covered and Stock Car. It was just a matter of changing body posts. We ran the Formula bodies half road and half oval. Lots of different kinds of racing.

The 1/12 racing in the 80's was a bit less so. We would run a GTP series or race periodically and although the TOJ was in the majority for most other races we still saw a variety of good looking bodies like the Schkee, the RM1, and the Jag GTP.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:09 PM   #384
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When we ran 1/8 pan cars in the 70's, I can remember using four different bodies for four different series over a two year period. We ran CanAm, GT bodies (Porsche Carrera style), Formula bodies (I ran a Tecno) and these were more half bodies because the rear of the car wasn't covered and Stock Car. It was just a matter of changing body posts. We ran the Formula bodies half road and half oval. Lots of different kinds of racing.

The 1/12 racing in the 80's was a bit less so. We would run a GTP series or race periodically and although the TOJ was in the majority for most other races we still saw a variety of good looking bodies like the Schkee, the RM1, and the Jag GTP.
I also had a variety of bodies for my 1/8 pan car, including an Indycar and a Corvette convertible. We also had a 1/12 series that used Indycar, stock, Can Am, and prototype bodies. Fun!

It makes sense to do this with WGT chassis, as there are many different styles of body that will fit, and it's simple to do. For just the cost of a body, paint, and some body posts, one can (almost) have a whole new race car. There's HPI-ish GT-ish, muscle car, supercar, prototype, stock car, Nastruck... RJ Speed even makes a classic 50's coupe! Am I missing any?
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:53 AM   #385
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Hey All, completely new to WGT and would welcome any setup advice. I just got a CRC GenX10LE and I'll be racing on a asphalt parking lot. Club isn't sure yet whether we'll be running 13.5 or 17.5. on a 80x50 track.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:15 PM   #386
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Hey All, completely new to WGT and would welcome any setup advice. I just got a CRC GenX10LE and I'll be racing on a asphalt parking lot. Club isn't sure yet whether we'll be running 13.5 or 17.5. on a 80x50 track.
You probably will get a lot more educated help if your club decides to run 13.5 unboosted with an 1S battery per ROAR rules because several of us will know about those setups on either carpet or asphalt.

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Old 08-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #387
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Thanks Bill, It appears that's the way we'll go. No sense rocking the boat. BTW, went to the ROAR website today. I could swear they used to show the motor type (or types) required for each class. In the 1/10 on road section, which includes WGT, there's nothing denoting 13.5 as the standard. Has the site changed for some reason ?
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:11 PM   #388
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Thanks Bill, It appears that's the way we'll go. No sense rocking the boat. BTW, went to the ROAR website today. I could swear they used to show the motor type (or types) required for each class. In the 1/10 on road section, which includes WGT, there's nothing denoting 13.5 as the standard. Has the site changed for some reason ?
Dang! You are right. Expected it to be there too.

But, I have never been to a significant ROAR race (regional or national/carpet or asphalt) where the 13.5 was not the standard motor for the class.

In the SF Bay Area, we ran boosted for awhile; but, everyone went to unboosted when ROAR specified that for the regional/national races.

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Old 10-30-2013, 07:21 AM   #389
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Planning to get a 200mm WGT considering I can race it with my 1/12th pan car

are there any cars better than others out there or should I just pick the color I prefer?

if someone is selling his car let me know, shipping in Belgium possible
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:09 AM   #390
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Pick your favorite color...if you already have a 1/12th scale then I would say you might want to get the same brand WGT car as your 1/12th as many parts will be interchangeable.
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