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Old 12-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #256
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+1 Awesome speedo, great price and great support.
+2 using one also. Seem just fine and delivers good perf.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:59 AM   #257
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New kid on the block

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
What are the large plastic covers next to the rear tires It's not a gear diff is it?
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:18 PM   #258
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Default spec tyres

Here in the Uk the most popular tyre by far are a USA product.RC4LESS make a great lilac spec tyres and wheel.
Inside of the wheel is branded with a W and a lilac sticker. Only down side to them is they come on orange wheels.But the rubber is fine and total traction at all venues.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:01 AM   #259
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What are the large plastic covers next to the rear tires It's not a gear diff is it?
No I don't think it is a gear diff. When I pause the video I can clearly see a diff ring on the inside of the spur gear. Must just be the way they did the hubs. As for using that for WGT...the rear wheels bolt on with a single nut instead of 4 screws so you might have to modify the rear axle to be able to use the WGT spec wheels/tires.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:25 AM   #260
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Default tyres

Hubs need to be changed for this car to make any inroads on the market all current spec wheels wont fit this mode. Don't know what they were thinking off when this was designed .Guess they will be bring out there own range of wheels and tyres.l
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:26 AM   #261
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The GQ tires are R/C4less rims only in Black. I don't know about the rubber compounds are the same. But the tire works great. I'm also using the same spec tire in my oval class that requires WGT spec tires. So the GQ tire works both in oval and road course.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:35 AM   #262
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Default GQ TYRES

If they do a spec tyres LILAC grade not legal in the Uk as not on the approved list.
Also don't know of an importer in the Uk.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:18 AM   #263
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What are the large plastic covers next to the rear tires It's not a gear diff is it?
The rear wheels and mounting hubs are based on the old Corally style axles, the 'large plastic covers' are the cone shaped hubs the wheels mount over to drive them. The plastic cones support the inner edge of the wheels and
have cutouts locating on ribs inside the wheels. This means the wheels can be attached to the axle at the outer edge, so Turnigy can mould rear wheels that look more scale than a normal WorldGT wheel.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:16 AM   #264
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Hi guys,

Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available

I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.

Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.

Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?

Would link,or T plate be the go?

I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.

I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.

Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:07 AM   #265
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Originally Posted by Peli View Post
Hi guys,

Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available

I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.

Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.

Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?

Would link,or T plate be the go?

I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.

I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.

Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
I would suggest to see what everyone else has and maybe go with that. Setups and spare parts would be easier to come by that way. I don't think there are any bad chassis's out there, they are all pretty good, each with little tweaks to make it that little bit better/different to the others.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:22 AM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peli View Post
Hi guys,

Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available

I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.

Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.

Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?

Would link,or T plate be the go?

I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.

I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.

Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
T-plate cars are nearly extinct
You are looking for a Link car, as luck would have it, nearly every modern car, is a link car
All 3 you listed are very good choices, and more or less the same as far as tuning and durability

2s 17.5 is going to be very, very quick for an indoor circuit

In the US, 13.5 1s is the standard

If you plan on using that much power, to run into things
You may also want to consider the Corally 10SL
I hear it is the most durble of pan cars available

http://www.corally.com/
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:08 AM   #267
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
T-plate cars are nearly extinct
You are looking for a Link car, as luck would have it, nearly every modern car, is a link car
All 3 you listed are very good choices, and more or less the same as far as tuning and durability

2s 17.5 is going to be very, very quick for an indoor circuit

In the US, 13.5 1s is the standard

If you plan on using that much power, to run into things
You may also want to consider the Corally 10SL
I hear it is the most durble of pan cars available

http://www.corally.com/
I just clicked on the link. The first thing I saw that popped up makes me want to buy one right now! or at least leave the site up on my computer for a while
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:39 AM   #268
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You should see the corally catalogue from 10-15 years ago. Cheesy as hell with bikini babes or dressed in skinny military uniforms holding Corally cars and motors

Copy/paste in the browser

http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:59 PM   #269
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You should see the corally catalogue from 10-15 years ago. Cheesy as hell with bikini babes or dressed in skinny military uniforms holding Corally cars and motors

Copy/paste in the browser

http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
As the saying goes
If it ain't Dutch
It ain't much
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:53 PM   #270
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The Corally SP10SL is indeed a great chassis! I would say that though ;-)

I have been running mine for about 12 months now and had some good results with it. It is based around a 2c (17.5) setup but can accomadate a 1c LiPo very easily. I prefer to use the 4-pivot rear end over the link rear end, but it's just a tuning aid and not neccesary a 'must have' straight away.

Here's a pic of mine ready for a meeting we are having this coming Sunday:



I have run it with various electronic layouts, and wanted to try it like this to see how it feels over having the LiPo down the middle.

If you have any questions or would like some more info, feel free to ask!

Cheers, Chris.
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