World GT - WGT - 200mm Pan Spec
#166
Cars done. I've never put a link car together. The instructions are beyond vague regarding the telescoping link arms. How do you "fill" them with oil. There are no seals. Are you just supposed to coat the tube with a certain weight oil? And I have an 88/30 gearing with 54mm cut tires. Does that sound about for TQ?
#167
Cars done. I've never put a link car together. The instructions are beyond vague regarding the telescoping link arms. How do you "fill" them with oil. There are no seals. Are you just supposed to coat the tube with a certain weight oil? And I have an 88/30 gearing with 54mm cut tires. Does that sound about for TQ?
There should be a little plastic container of white lube included in your kit. I believe the kit comes with something like 5,000 wt lube. This will work if you don't have the weight suggested below.
Just coat the black plastic plunger with 10,000 wt lube filling the 5 grooves and slide it into the red aluminum damper tube. Move it in and out a few times and you will feel the stiction created by the lube. Do the other side the same way so both sides have the same action. Clean off any excess lube after assembling.
10,000 wt lube works for a lot of situations; but, I carry 5K, 10K, 20K and 30K for different situations. Basically, 5K being for low traction conditions (where I want the chassis to roll) and 30K being for extreme traction (where I want the chassis to roll minimally).
Make sure the vent hole in the the damper tube is not blocked by excess lube or dirt.
Bill
#169
Yep. Good pictures.
That is the way I roll...plus the 20K and 30K wts.
And if you want steps in between, I have seen advanced racers use combinations of say 10K in one side tube and 20K in the other.
That is the way I roll...plus the 20K and 30K wts.
And if you want steps in between, I have seen advanced racers use combinations of say 10K in one side tube and 20K in the other.
#170
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I'm an offroad guy thinking about trying WGT carpet racing this winter. Local rules are 13.5 1S blinky and spec tires. I last ran a pan car back in the mid 90s...so lots of questions.
Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.
Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?
Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...
Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?
TIA for any advice/opinions!
Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.
Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?
Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...
Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?
TIA for any advice/opinions!
#171
I love my CRC but all of them are pretty much the same.
Not all the spec tires have the stripe. I know Jaco and GQ do not. The foam is the same for all of them but wheels can make a difference. Jaco has a pretty soft wheel which is good for grip, GQ has a stiffer wheel which may be better in high bite, I'll find out next weekend.
Same servos as 1/12th. Futaba 9650 or the JR something or other are my favorites.
Not all the spec tires have the stripe. I know Jaco and GQ do not. The foam is the same for all of them but wheels can make a difference. Jaco has a pretty soft wheel which is good for grip, GQ has a stiffer wheel which may be better in high bite, I'll find out next weekend.
Same servos as 1/12th. Futaba 9650 or the JR something or other are my favorites.
#172
And seeing that CRC is in Rome, NY, they are virtually in your backyard for parts and setup assistance.
Check out the CRC Gen X-10 LE thread on this website to get the full info.
Bill
Check out the CRC Gen X-10 LE thread on this website to get the full info.
Bill
#173
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I can say I've had 2 brands in the last few years- Corally and the CRC Gen X LE. My teammate has tried the BMI, TOP and now the Speedmerchant.Out of the bunch I'll stick with my CRC. As for front servos-I've been using a JR DS3421 with no problems. Tires most have the purple strip and two don't. I use either Jaco or CRC. But I also use Purple fronts and pink rears (Our Florida series allows any tires). But most use the spec tires.
ESC I use NOVAK (Edge, Havoc Pro SC or Impact). Used them all with great luck and success.Presently I've got the Impact- the size of the Edge and in between the weight of an Edge and Havoc. Whatever you choose have fun.
ESC I use NOVAK (Edge, Havoc Pro SC or Impact). Used them all with great luck and success.Presently I've got the Impact- the size of the Edge and in between the weight of an Edge and Havoc. Whatever you choose have fun.
#174
I'm an offroad guy thinking about trying WGT carpet racing this winter. Local rules are 13.5 1S blinky and spec tires. I last ran a pan car back in the mid 90s...so lots of questions.
Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.
Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?
Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...
Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?
TIA for any advice/opinions!
Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.
Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?
Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...
Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?
TIA for any advice/opinions!
#175
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Glad I got to meet ya Sunday. Thanks Dave (and everyone else too) for all the answers to my questions. Think I'll be down to practice finally this week. ....one more question then I'm out of everyone's hair. You recomended to start at around 88 rollout Was that correct? With my 88t spur, I couldn't fit a big enough pinion to achieve that. Running 54-53mm tire diameter. I assume if I can get a 84/44 gearing to fit, I should be there. correct? I used Sean's rollout/gear calculator.
#176
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Glad I got to meet ya Sunday. Thanks Dave (and everyone else too) for all the answers to my questions. Think I'll be down to practice finally this week. ....one more question then I'm out of everyone's hair. You recomended to start at around 88 rollout Was that correct? With my 88t spur, I couldn't fit a big enough pinion to achieve that. Running 54-53mm tire diameter. I assume if I can get a 84/44 gearing to fit, I should be there. correct? I used Sean's rollout/gear calculator.
It's Odd that your car won't accept that combo
I have run much more gear than that
If that's the case you may need a smaller spur to get the range you are looking for ?
#177
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.
#179
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.
#180
Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.
Although I agree mostly with you, get the Xtreme Stock, and run the booster, its only $20 more, and allows you to running Blinky and Boost/Turbo. Its a better investment for the long term.
Shawn