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Old 09-22-2012, 11:08 PM   #166
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Cars done. I've never put a link car together. The instructions are beyond vague regarding the telescoping link arms. How do you "fill" them with oil. There are no seals. Are you just supposed to coat the tube with a certain weight oil? And I have an 88/30 gearing with 54mm cut tires. Does that sound about for TQ?
You coat the "piston" with some silicone damper fluid. You see between 5000 CST and 30000 CST depending on the track and conditions. Generally, lighter fluid will give more rear bite. Once the shaft is coated, work it in and out of the tube to be sure you have a nice smooth drag, no slips or bumps. Ask around and see what the other guys are using, use that as a starting point and adjust to suit yourself. If you're not sure, disconnect one of the tubes and see if it's better or worse.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:20 PM   #167
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Cars done. I've never put a link car together. The instructions are beyond vague regarding the telescoping link arms. How do you "fill" them with oil. There are no seals. Are you just supposed to coat the tube with a certain weight oil? And I have an 88/30 gearing with 54mm cut tires. Does that sound about for TQ?
Green,

There should be a little plastic container of white lube included in your kit. I believe the kit comes with something like 5,000 wt lube. This will work if you don't have the weight suggested below.

Just coat the black plastic plunger with 10,000 wt lube filling the 5 grooves and slide it into the red aluminum damper tube. Move it in and out a few times and you will feel the stiction created by the lube. Do the other side the same way so both sides have the same action. Clean off any excess lube after assembling.

10,000 wt lube works for a lot of situations; but, I carry 5K, 10K, 20K and 30K for different situations. Basically, 5K being for low traction conditions (where I want the chassis to roll) and 30K being for extreme traction (where I want the chassis to roll minimally).

Make sure the vent hole in the the damper tube is not blocked by excess lube or dirt.

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Old 09-22-2012, 11:31 PM   #168
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http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...d=lube&pg_no=1



http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...d=lube&pg_no=1
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:44 PM   #169
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Yep. Good pictures.

That is the way I roll...plus the 20K and 30K wts.

And if you want steps in between, I have seen advanced racers use combinations of say 10K in one side tube and 20K in the other.
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:15 PM   #170
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I'm an offroad guy thinking about trying WGT carpet racing this winter. Local rules are 13.5 1S blinky and spec tires. I last ran a pan car back in the mid 90s...so lots of questions.

Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.

Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?

Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...

Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?

TIA for any advice/opinions!
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:57 PM   #171
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I love my CRC but all of them are pretty much the same.

Not all the spec tires have the stripe. I know Jaco and GQ do not. The foam is the same for all of them but wheels can make a difference. Jaco has a pretty soft wheel which is good for grip, GQ has a stiffer wheel which may be better in high bite, I'll find out next weekend.

Same servos as 1/12th. Futaba 9650 or the JR something or other are my favorites.
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:52 PM   #172
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And seeing that CRC is in Rome, NY, they are virtually in your backyard for parts and setup assistance.

Check out the CRC Gen X-10 LE thread on this website to get the full info.

Bill
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:19 PM   #173
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I can say I've had 2 brands in the last few years- Corally and the CRC Gen X LE. My teammate has tried the BMI, TOP and now the Speedmerchant.Out of the bunch I'll stick with my CRC. As for front servos-I've been using a JR DS3421 with no problems. Tires most have the purple strip and two don't. I use either Jaco or CRC. But I also use Purple fronts and pink rears (Our Florida series allows any tires). But most use the spec tires.
ESC I use NOVAK (Edge, Havoc Pro SC or Impact). Used them all with great luck and success.Presently I've got the Impact- the size of the Edge and in between the weight of an Edge and Havoc. Whatever you choose have fun.
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Old 09-24-2012, 12:28 AM   #174
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Originally Posted by Gary NJ View Post
I'm an offroad guy thinking about trying WGT carpet racing this winter. Local rules are 13.5 1S blinky and spec tires. I last ran a pan car back in the mid 90s...so lots of questions.

Looking to get a feel for the differences between the difference chassis makers in terms of ease of setup, durability, parts availability etc. Not looking to start a fanboy flame war, just looking to get some fairly objective opinions on how the cars compare. To not prejudice the answers, I think I'll refrain from saying what factors are important to me. I have a bias for one car going in, but I'll keep that to myself as well.

Also trying to understand if all the WGT spec tires are created fairly equally, and do they all need to have the purple stripe on them to be a legal spec tire?

Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...

Finally, what size servos do the 10th scale cars use? Standard, low/mid height standard or mini like a 12th scale? What kind of torque numbers do I need to shoot for?

TIA for any advice/opinions!
Gary if your thinking of racing this at 360. Stop by I help you out pal
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #175
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Weight will have nothing to do with the performance of that car
Most WGT cars are under weight (930g) as it is
Glad I got to meet ya Sunday. Thanks Dave (and everyone else too) for all the answers to my questions. Think I'll be down to practice finally this week. ....one more question then I'm out of everyone's hair. You recomended to start at around 88 rollout Was that correct? With my 88t spur, I couldn't fit a big enough pinion to achieve that. Running 54-53mm tire diameter. I assume if I can get a 84/44 gearing to fit, I should be there. correct? I used Sean's rollout/gear calculator.
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:10 PM   #176
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Glad I got to meet ya Sunday. Thanks Dave (and everyone else too) for all the answers to my questions. Think I'll be down to practice finally this week. ....one more question then I'm out of everyone's hair. You recomended to start at around 88 rollout Was that correct? With my 88t spur, I couldn't fit a big enough pinion to achieve that. Running 54-53mm tire diameter. I assume if I can get a 84/44 gearing to fit, I should be there. correct? I used Sean's rollout/gear calculator.
88/46 looks correct
It's Odd that your car won't accept that combo
I have run much more gear than that

If that's the case you may need a smaller spur to get the range you are looking for ?
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:19 PM   #177
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Does anyone have experience with the Turnigy/Toro 120a 1s ESCs? The price seems really right on these - about half what the HW goes for. Of course, they may be worth just about what they're priced at...
Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:10 PM   #178
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88/46 looks correct
It's Odd that your car won't accept that combo
I have run much more gear than that

If that's the case you may need a smaller spur to get the range you are looking for ?
yup. I only own an 88t at the moment and I have all the pinion sizes. I think I fit around a 38t maximum with the slots provided in the s100. I'm going to try a 76/40 since that's also a 1.91 ratio also.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:35 PM   #179
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Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.
Hey R. what's up? Are you running tc or wgt somewhere too? I'm going to start to frequent TQ and CalRaceway as much as I can again.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:45 PM   #180
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Cheap is cheap. Don't go any less than HW. If you want to save some bucks, get the HW JustStock ESC and put a 1s booster. You're only problem with that is that you'll have to run it with no lipo cut-off, but if you're careful, you can get away with it. BTW all those cheap ESCs are impossible to program without the optional program box, be sure to get one.

Although I agree mostly with you, get the Xtreme Stock, and run the booster, its only $20 more, and allows you to running Blinky and Boost/Turbo. Its a better investment for the long term.


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