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Old 09-06-2012, 06:09 PM   #136
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You could also use the RS and just get one of these http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=ns&pn=STO7884 and then you dont have to worry about the battery.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:01 PM   #137
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Hi everyone. (subscribed now) Just geting back to racing adter a year or so, and I am getting one of these cool machines. The carpet track I will be racing at has the 1s 13.5 blinky class. I am used to TC so I am totally confused with what esc to use and if I need a reciever battery pack or not and what is best for performance. I have a Tekins RS pro, but am I understanding it that I need a sepperate reciever battery to run those? I am looking at a: LRP SSX TC-Spec V2. Is this a good esc to use without the need of a reciever pack? And will it be legal to run? Thanks everyone,
Since you already have a Tekin, you can pickup a booster or rec pack from Sean at TQ

Hit him up, he is very helpful and also runs WGT
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:47 PM   #138
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Finally got a chance to put my new WGT on the track this weekend. Drove great even with oversized foams. I don't know why this class isn't more popular. This might be my favorite class.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:51 PM   #139
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Hi everyone. (subscribed now) Just geting back to racing adter a year or so, and I am getting one of these cool machines. The carpet track I will be racing at has the 1s 13.5 blinky class. I am used to TC so I am totally confused with what esc to use and if I need a reciever battery pack or not and what is best for performance. I have a Tekins RS pro, but am I understanding it that I need a sepperate reciever battery to run those? I am looking at a: LRP SSX TC-Spec V2. Is this a good esc to use without the need of a reciever pack? And will it be legal to run? Thanks everyone,
bring the Tekin RS and Sean can set you up with what you need.

if you prefer to come prepared, then go to hobbyking and buy a handful of boosters
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7884 ($4 each so just doesn't make sense for the shipping) and use the tekin, it will work great. FYI i bought 6 and have yet to replace one due to failure.

if you have to have a clean setup without receiver pack or booster, then get the hobbywing 1s esc, (available in black or blue) for the most bang for the buck. they work great, someone at the track can swap firmware on it to the blinky version if you don't want to get the programming box.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:01 AM   #140
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Thanks everyone. Sean & TQ is the place I race at most of the time actually. I was there about a year or so ago racing my T3 doing well. I just got the chance to get back into racing and am going to be running the Serpent 411TE and the Serpent S100LT link car. I am going to be using the RS pro in the s411. I am going to go with the Hobbywing I think for the S100LT. I know TC driving well, but I am sure I will be asking lots of questions about the WGT car in the near future. Thanks for the help and future patience with me. See you out there.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:02 PM   #141
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I need to ask another question now. . Ok so on the tires and gearing. What should I be cutting my tires to. Same front and rear or front/rear split like I did on my 1/8 scale nitro on road? And what gears to start with if I am going to be running at TQ in Chino? Thanks in advance for the advice.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:23 AM   #142
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I need to ask another question now. . Ok so on the tires and gearing. What should I be cutting my tires to. Same front and rear or front/rear split like I did on my 1/8 scale nitro on road? And what gears to start with if I am going to be running at TQ in Chino? Thanks in advance for the advice.
The split in nitro in mainly because of the rear wearing out faster then front.
In WGT most run same front to rear, but this is something you can try one day and see. As for gearing you would be better off asking someone at the track.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:12 AM   #143
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The split in nitro in mainly because of the rear wearing out faster then front.
In WGT most run same front to rear, but this is something you can try one day and see. As for gearing you would be better off asking someone at the track.
On our 1/8th scales, we used to stagger mainly to affect over/under steering and having the front tires help "pull" you through the corner. Now these were 4wd obviously. I know WGT is a 2wd. I just assumed it might have been done to affect ride height and CG. All the tires I see at the track are cut or worn down to the plastic wheels almost. What tire diameter should I be running on these cars?
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:40 AM   #144
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On our 1/8th scales, we used to stagger mainly to affect over/under steering and having the front tires help "pull" you through the corner. Now these were 4wd obviously. I know WGT is a 2wd. I just assumed it might have been done to affect ride height and CG. All the tires I see at the track are cut or worn down to the plastic wheels almost. What tire diameter should I be running on these cars?
Key word "mainly". I understand the over/under steer.
Tire diameter comes down to what works on your track, but yes most will run them almost on plastic. Try starting around 53mm 2.08"
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:01 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by Green Machine! View Post
On our 1/8th scales, we used to stagger mainly to affect over/under steering and having the front tires help "pull" you through the corner. Now these were 4wd obviously. I know WGT is a 2wd. I just assumed it might have been done to affect ride height and CG. All the tires I see at the track are cut or worn down to the plastic wheels almost. What tire diameter should I be running on these cars?
For club racing at most tracks, I usually start mine at 2.11 front and rear. This gives you a pretty big window of tire life. If the track has "big-race" bite, 2.08 is a great place to start. The cool thing about these cars is that if your set-up is good you can run the tires almost until the plastic is showing with very little degradation in performance.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:05 PM   #146
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Green Machine,

For club racing, you can probably start at 54mm.

Your front tires will wear about twice as fast as the rears. If you get two sets of fronts to one set of rears (and alternate the pairs of fronts), you should get fairly equal wear front to back.

Due to the usual clockwise layout at TQ, your left side tires will wear faster than the left side. It is OK to swap tires side-to-side to get fairly equal wear. I usually check for this about every other run.

The CRC ClickTrac barriers at TQ are pretty friendly; but, apply a thin "safety bead" of CA glue on the outer side (where tire meets rim) of both the front and rear tires to protect them from chunking in a shunt.

Ride height for WGT is 4mm.

Find Dave Berger at TQ about any tuning issues. He is da man at TQ.

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Old 09-19-2012, 08:52 PM   #147
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Thanks everyone. You are all helping me a lot. Finally got my chassis. Ready to put together. Ok hopefully one last question. On spurs. I run 64 pitch. I have plenty of pinions. What should I start with on the spurs?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:03 PM   #148
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Thanks everyone. You are all helping me a lot. Finally got my chassis. Ready to put together. Ok hopefully one last question. On spurs. I run 64 pitch. I have plenty of pinions. What should I start with on the spurs?
An 88T spur covers all WGT class situations.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:23 PM   #149
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Still Bill always told me to alternate the rear tires to the fronts and vise versa!
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:31 AM   #150
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An 88T spur covers all WGT class situations.
I run a 2c/17.5 setup on my Corally and that uses a 112t spur with the smallest pinion I can get in! A 88t spur is good for 1c/10.5 though.
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