During summer we run at the midwest tr-clone in west bend, wi.
(1) On our asphalt tri-oval, some of the guys are getting 2 seasons out of their capped tires.
(2) Most run their tires right as they come, no truing.
(3) Maybe, some say on the tri-oval, a longer body like the sedan or original bolink bodies give more downforce and make the car more stable in corners because the extra body acts a a spoiler/wing of sorts.
(4) BSR makes capped & foam tires, we are using their capped ones for the asphalt and foam for the carpet during winter.
(5) If running oval change front springs, get away from the Legends kit springs (too soft), get 1/10th pan car springs (associated, others). To help with grip, myself and other racers at my club use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner to clean off the tires after each round. The trick here is to apply it about 5-10 minutes before your going to run, then heat the tires with a heat gun or hair dryer until they become tacky.
(6) Our club, along with most, bans reverse, but allows other ESCs. We run 27-turn handout motors and use a random draw system to prevent the same driver from having same motor all the time.
(7) Check Tower Hobbies out. I have a Duratrax ESC. I would put a price cap on the ESC, as the Legends class is more about learning to drive the car than who can spend the most and go the fastest.
(8) The Legends class in my club runs 4 cell NiMh. I have two Ener-G 4600 stick packs from Pro Match Racing (http://www.promatchracing.com/index.php
) that I run. I know of one other driver that runs these as well. I like them, can get about 10 minutes of racing out of a pack. I see they also sell LiPos.
(9) For weak spots, the kingpins, I've snapped a couple this summer already with hard crashes. The front axles sometimes pull out of the steering blocks. If your servo is head on with servo tape only, if you have a hard crash it may move, zip ties and securing the steering servo so it cannot move are key. If using a standard servo and having problems with servo saver popping off, a 4-40 screw about 1.25 - 1.5 inches secures that better than the short servo saver screws that come with the servo savers.
All in all, these are pretty tough little cars and can take a beating before breaking. For example, I got sideswipped into the wall at full throttle, tumbled end over end down the straight, and all I broke was a kingpin. Made the next round and finished 2nd in the A main that day.
(10) Anything else: Run a graphite axle and aluminum hubs. I have a set from IRR Gang Racing. It has a graphite axle, clamping hub, and aluminum diff hub; this setup elmininates the use of the thrust bearing and makes the car lighter. Run bearings in the rear axles and front wheels. Boca Bearing sells an inexpensive, but excellent bearing kit for the Legend car, can be found on eBay or their website. Duratrax bearings work well too. Another thing, take each chassis spacer and loosen it until it is able to spin freely; this helps act as suspension and the chassis can flex a bit in the corners and over bumps, where a rigid chassis cannot; this was a tip that I got from the top Legend driver in my club when I first started. Tower Hobbies sells parts for the Legends at pretty reasonable prices, most get their equipment from there. A couple of last things, if not running 2.4 ghz, start, much better than FM (IMO), plus the chances of having frequency conflicts is virtually eliminated with 2.4 ghz. AND if you have the ablility, run personal transponders in your cars, scoring is much easier.
If you have any other questions, just ask.