F104 wide track conversion kit set new record at UF1Series on Feb 4 at TQrcracing
03-13-2012, 01:17 PM
#121
03-14-2012, 06:48 AM
#122
Has anybody been contacted by rsector yet to correct the tolerance issue....and if so what are they doing for u?
03-14-2012, 06:09 PM
#125
Ya they emailed me for my address today so i think there shipping me some too ......gotta say nothing like good customer service ....keep it up rsector
03-18-2012, 02:18 PM
#126
I just got done "racing" at the carpet nats. With Pit tires, this conversion makes the car wider than 190mm. Not a problem for club racing but a BIG problem at a national race. It really sucks to have ur car setup and then have to remove this kit and go back to 180mm when there is almost no practice to tune the car with the huge change. I gotta say... between the clearance issue and now the width issue I really can"t recommend this one.
03-18-2012, 04:29 PM
#127
I just got done "racing" at the carpet nats. With Pit tires, this conversion makes the car wider than 190mm. Not a problem for club racing but a BIG problem at a national race. It really sucks to have ur car setup and then have to remove this kit and go back to 180mm when there is almost no practice to tune the car with the huge change. I gotta say... between the clearance issue and now the width issue I really can"t recommend this one.
For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
03-18-2012, 07:23 PM
#128
We found the same thing, but as a test run, put the wide kit back on and just wheels (no tires) and ran it through ROAR's gauge. It rolled in without a problem -4mm. When you run it through with the tires on, the sticky sidewalls prevent it from moving in the gauge. When you pushed on it, the 'stiction' of the tires cause the F1 to 'creep' up the side of the gauge. ROAR said it had to roll through the gauges to be legal.
For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
03-18-2012, 09:13 PM
#130
We want to congratulate Tony and Mike for the excellent performance at the Nats.
Yes, it was paper thin close!
Thank you for the support, I think most of the racers with our kit on went faster!
On a side note, we would say we are very very close to 190mm, around +-0.5mm max.(anyother combo will be less then 190mm)Mike was able to pass tech with a few adjustments with tamiya foam wheels/pit combo.
Thank you for the support, I think most of the racers with our kit on went faster!
On a side note, we would say we are very very close to 190mm, around +-0.5mm max.(anyother combo will be less then 190mm)Mike was able to pass tech with a few adjustments with tamiya foam wheels/pit combo.
03-19-2012, 06:09 AM
#131
We found the same thing, but as a test run, put the wide kit back on and just wheels (no tires) and ran it through ROAR's gauge. It rolled in without a problem -4mm. When you run it through with the tires on, the sticky sidewalls prevent it from moving in the gauge. When you pushed on it, the 'stiction' of the tires cause the F1 to 'creep' up the side of the gauge. ROAR said it had to roll through the gauges to be legal.
For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
For this race, I ended up removing the kit and manually widening the car with spacers. Mike was able to fudge his car through by adding tire decals (removing the stiction in the sidewalls). That seemed to work. Same result, two different ways to get there.
Unfortunetly once that was done the car would not turn and pushed like a school bus. Taking the kit off, spacing the front and rear Tamiya parts and returning the front to 2degs camber and 1 deg toe out made the car handle better than it did with the RSector kit and mild front end setup. It took a full second off my lap times.
That being said, for the price of a few spacers and shims (much less than the $50 for the RSector kit) you car can handle better than the RSector kit and still be within the rules.
03-19-2012, 07:50 PM
#132
i ran the widening kit with 2.5 front camber and it fit in their standard guage. like Tony said, the stickyness of the sidewalls would make the car climb out of the guage. with the decals on the tires, the car rolled thru effortlessly with no other changes. i tried everything i could think of, adjusting toe, camber, new tires, old tires and even rubbing the sidewalls with oil. in the end i removed all shims, front and rear, and applied the decals, that is what worked for me.
03-21-2012, 02:07 PM
#133
I'm a little pissed off. I ordered my widening kit DIRECTLY from Rsector. Just got it in the mail and there are no shims included like they said they were going to start doing. Mounted it up and sure enough the right rear wheel wobbles. 
03-21-2012, 02:59 PM
#134
appreciate that would be frustrating.....but drop them an email, it was posted on the last couple of pages, and they will make it right for you.
i ran mine last night without the shim kit, and just backing the grub screw all the way out and after a few laps, a couple of excursions into the walls and a good hit on the rear, all held together nicely......know if I could just sort out why the rear doesn't want to turn, that would be great.
i ran mine last night without the shim kit, and just backing the grub screw all the way out and after a few laps, a couple of excursions into the walls and a good hit on the rear, all held together nicely......know if I could just sort out why the rear doesn't want to turn, that would be great.
03-21-2012, 04:48 PM
#135
quick wobble fix if no shims...just apply some double sided tape or electrical tape to rsector hub where it touches diff half and cut off outside extra tape with xacto...works great, no problems.