jonu

So I think I may get a 1/10 scale pan car and need some help. I've been looking for reviews but haven't had much success. I ws also wondering if anyone could give some pros and cons of the 200mm vs 235mm cars. Judging by what I saw at the hobby shop I doubt there will be much stocked parts regardless of what I get. I've been considering the following kits: Xray X10, Corally 10SL, Serpent S100, and the CRC GenX10 LE. I know I want something competitive out of the box and will have $400 to spend on a roller. The local track is an outdoor asphalt track that appears to be pretty smooth (Hals Hobby Warehouse in El Paso, Texas). Thanks for any advice guys.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

In general the only 1/10th pancar racing in the US is either WGT(200mm) or oval, there is very little 235mm pancar racing left. Baised on what you said in your other thread it would seem that you will be racing alone or mixed with a TC class so I think that its really down to your personal preference. If it were me I'd go the WGT route as you would have opportunites to run that class at big events(IIC,Snowbirds, etc), not so with a 235mm car.

jonu

Trying to consolidate both threads:


I forgot to mention it in my first post in the other thread Cypress, but as I said in this thread, I will be racing at Hal's Hobbies in El Paso, TX. The track looks to be smooth asphalt, although I'm not sure how traction is on it, the track has a very well defined racing line.

Thanks for the info on the sizes, it looks like my best bet is to run the 200mm WGT cars based on everything you guys have mentioned. Are all the currently available kits pretty much equal in terms of setup and adjustments? I know that ultimately it falls on the driver to get around the track, but since I haven't run on road in years I don't expect too much and really am looking for a car that will be easy to wrench on. At the moment the Corally 10SL, Serpent S100, and Associated RC10R5 are at the top of the list. I did have the Xray ahead of the associated but i saw some posts about it's graphite driveshaft falling apart. Still trying to find some opinions on what ones i should really narrow it down too. I know the local hobby shop can get the parts if needed regardless of which of those 4 kits I end up getting. I still have yet to find any reviews of these cars though.

jonu

One other question I have; the Corally 10SL comes in either 200mm or 235mm kit form. If i was to get the 200mm version, any idea what i would be changing to go from 200->235? If it wasn't to many parts I would consider going with this kit just for that reason. But as I think about it, I would probably be changing the entire rear pod and chassis. Probably cheaper to get one and if i wanted the other buy it as well.

Pedro 51

Looking at the manual it looks like, rear axle and wheel hubs are the only difference. Oh and longer front turnbuckles.

Cheers
Peter

jonu

I downloaded the manual and would have to agree. It appears that the only parts needed would be the axle and hubs. The turnbuckles and ends are the same part number, so I think the only difference is assembled length. Right now I think this kit is at the top of the list for the simple fact that I can run two different classes with very minimal changes. This way if one class or the other is run I can adapt it to suit the class.