Serpent S100 to S120?
#1
Changed question, which 1/12th pan car?
Hi all, I have a Serpent S100 link, however the 1/10th pan car racing over here is pretty much dead.
Someone said it's pretty easy to convert my S100 to an S120?
Is this correct?
What parts will I need for the conversion?
Thanks
Edit: New post down further.
Which 1/12th should I be going for?
Is there 1 stand out 1/12 pan car I should be looking at?
Someone said it's pretty easy to convert my S100 to an S120?
Is this correct?
What parts will I need for the conversion?
Thanks
Edit: New post down further.
Which 1/12th should I be going for?
Is there 1 stand out 1/12 pan car I should be looking at?
Last edited by FST4RD; 01-22-2012 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Changed directions
#2
1/12 diff (IRS are nice)
shorter body posts (CRC's are nice)
main chassis plate, and the shock tower 411198, (these would be less expensive if you bought them from someone with an Onpoint conversion)
servomounts or shoegoo the servo
also the 1/12 front end uses
shorter kingpin 411060, AE springs like .020
trailing arms so new axles and blocks, 411064, 411087 411088.
i haven't tried the 0 degree blocks with a 1/12 scale, i have been using the 9 degree blocks in the kit.
if you are going to buy new parts, then you might consider the onpoint chassis kit and up end with a damper tube setup and inline options. you will still need a diff, short body posts and 1/12 specific frontend parts.
#3
Ok... seems that it might be better if I just buy a whole new car?
I know it's going to be personal preference... but what is a good 1/12 pan car to aquire?
Am I best getting the Serpent because I already have the 1/10?
What about xray? Corraly? any others?
I know it's going to be personal preference... but what is a good 1/12 pan car to aquire?
Am I best getting the Serpent because I already have the 1/10?
What about xray? Corraly? any others?
#4
like you said, personal taste. also consider what is popular (parts and advice readily available in your area, at your local track).
i don't know that a new kit is better(does better for you mean lowest cost, most value, most current...) myself i don't care for the serpent diff with those crazy custom metric diff screws(a replacement packet of screws costs about 2/3 the price of an irs diff kit), so they are sitting in the box with the serpent diff. (if you are interested in these parts let me know. main chassis, shock tower, rear diff parts)
considering the popularity of the 'old skool' front end, staying with the 0 degree blocks might be preferable. you will still want a shorter kingpin. a crc kingpin and pivot ball should work. you could run the inline axle as is.
the trailing arm axle and blocks is about $25 (usd) or for $5 more get the front end 'crash' kit (all front end plastic parts) so you get a replacement set of lower and upper arms for $5.
Last edited by avs; 01-23-2012 at 06:48 AM.