Studdering with 25.5
#1
Studdering with 25.5
I am running an Xray T1 in VTA with the speed passion combo (cirtix esc and 25.5 motor). Every now and then the car will studder and not move. Push it forward a few inches and everything is back to normal. This only happens occasionally after tapping a wall or just starting out from a stop (again also only occasionally). Here is what I have done thus far.
1. I have checked the car and everything is free (no binding),
2. swapped out sensor wire with a new one and that seemed to help some but same problem
3. swapped out a HK 35a sensored esc and again a small improvement but still there
I'm really tempted to pick up a viper motor or another speed passion 25.5 but really don't want to keep guessing. Thus far my experience with sensored motors makes me want to stick on the sensorless bandwagon, always works and really the cogging at low speeds has been minimal in my experience....
TIA!
1. I have checked the car and everything is free (no binding),
2. swapped out sensor wire with a new one and that seemed to help some but same problem
3. swapped out a HK 35a sensored esc and again a small improvement but still there
I'm really tempted to pick up a viper motor or another speed passion 25.5 but really don't want to keep guessing. Thus far my experience with sensored motors makes me want to stick on the sensorless bandwagon, always works and really the cogging at low speeds has been minimal in my experience....
TIA!
#2
Tech Champion
Possibly have dirt/debris on one of the sensors. I had that happen on one of mine once.
#3
Interesting.... is this something I can clean or does it need to be sent off?
If I can do it, just use normal electronics cleaner or microfiber cloth? Thanks for the quick reply!
edit: Just looked at the motor again and its a closed bell. No screws to remove and take off an end.
If I can do it, just use normal electronics cleaner or microfiber cloth? Thanks for the quick reply!
edit: Just looked at the motor again and its a closed bell. No screws to remove and take off an end.
Last edited by mkiiina; 01-08-2012 at 10:40 AM.
#7
We use the SP 17.5 motors and ESCs in our mini racing series. They are sensorless motors but we were having the exact same issues on a grand scale, because everyone was using them.
The problem admitted by Speed Passion was the connectors that are between the Motor and the ESC. Everyone was told to direct solder the wires together and I don't think I have seen an issue since. So if you have the same connectors in between, I would suggest you direct wire the motor to the ESC. I always Assumed a sensored motor would not have the same issues but its worth a shot in your case.
The problem admitted by Speed Passion was the connectors that are between the Motor and the ESC. Everyone was told to direct solder the wires together and I don't think I have seen an issue since. So if you have the same connectors in between, I would suggest you direct wire the motor to the ESC. I always Assumed a sensored motor would not have the same issues but its worth a shot in your case.
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
This very much sounds like a sensor problem, either the board, cable or the connector in the esc. Try a different motor since you tried the cable. Also check for any shorts between the wires from the esc to the motor, focus on the solder tabs at the motor or if the esc has solder posts at them. Any arcing at those locations will give you similar symptons.
By the way a 35a esc is pretty small for a 25.5/540 motor. I would recommend at least a 60a and best a 120a.
By the way a 35a esc is pretty small for a 25.5/540 motor. I would recommend at least a 60a and best a 120a.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
i will add one more thing. I believe that the Citrix esc has a similar setup to Hobbywing. If so try lowering the punch control. On a Hobbywing it is called DRRS. Reducing the number is in a sense limiting the max current and it softens the initial launch. A low c rating on a battery is another good reason to adjust that setting downward to avoid stuttering.
#10
We use the SP 17.5 motors and ESCs in our mini racing series. They are sensorless motors but we were having the exact same issues on a grand scale, because everyone was using them.
The problem admitted by Speed Passion was the connectors that are between the Motor and the ESC. Everyone was told to direct solder the wires together and I don't think I have seen an issue since. So if you have the same connectors in between, I would suggest you direct wire the motor to the ESC. I always Assumed a sensored motor would not have the same issues but its worth a shot in your case.
The problem admitted by Speed Passion was the connectors that are between the Motor and the ESC. Everyone was told to direct solder the wires together and I don't think I have seen an issue since. So if you have the same connectors in between, I would suggest you direct wire the motor to the ESC. I always Assumed a sensored motor would not have the same issues but its worth a shot in your case.
I'm running 40c batteries so I should have enough current on tap.
#12
Tech Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oreganastan Pacific Wonderland home to Indoor Farming
Posts: 1,059
This has been covered often in the Speedpassion thread.......change the sensor board, they are quite delicate and known for this exact problem. While you are at it, try one of the new 'added timing' sensors, they are much more robust in their design and add more power, of course you'll have to regear to take advantage of the increased rpms.
IF the motor has sp adjustable end bell.....
Good Luck
IF the motor has sp adjustable end bell.....
Good Luck
Last edited by Drillit; 01-09-2012 at 01:11 AM. Reason: none given
#13
Tech Master
Just a curious question. Why are you fighting this speed passion motor so much? Before you start spending more money to fix a motor that is not vta legal just get the Novak. You can find good condition used motors here or on eBay for $40.
#14
For our club level races anything that is 25.5 stamped is legal (Viper, Epic/Trinity, Speed Passion, Novak)
I have intentionally avoided Novak as I have had poor customer service from them in the past (nothing but great things from epic!).
I was going to try and swap out the board but its a locked rear bell (3 little tabs folded over) so I cannot really service it or change the physical timing.
Last night I bit the bullet and purchased a new Viper motor from A-Main and well see how that works. Pros are it is a serviceable motor and has (imho) a better sensor port mounting (similiar to Novak's) where a side hit wont make contact.
Hopefully this will fix my woes, thanks to everyone who chimed in. I plan on hooking the SP motor to my tekin RS in the next few days and checking it with the LED's to verify.
Anyone know if SP services these motors if you send it in? Time to call china...
I have intentionally avoided Novak as I have had poor customer service from them in the past (nothing but great things from epic!).
I was going to try and swap out the board but its a locked rear bell (3 little tabs folded over) so I cannot really service it or change the physical timing.
Last night I bit the bullet and purchased a new Viper motor from A-Main and well see how that works. Pros are it is a serviceable motor and has (imho) a better sensor port mounting (similiar to Novak's) where a side hit wont make contact.
Hopefully this will fix my woes, thanks to everyone who chimed in. I plan on hooking the SP motor to my tekin RS in the next few days and checking it with the LED's to verify.
Anyone know if SP services these motors if you send it in? Time to call china...