Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Maybe you guys should get matching black and white skirts for those Hako irons. You got be kidding me, buying a soldering iron based on the color of it's case. That just goes to show the whole Hako thing is nothing more then a R/C fad.
True True True. Considering the Weller WES51 and WESD51's performance far outstrips that of the Hakkos.
For ALL R/C related work you want a good chisel / screwdriver type tip. When I see folks at the track using the rounded / pointy tip I just wanna cry. By using a flat tip you transfer the heat mcuh faster to the joint through sheer surface area. Using the rounded side of a pointy tip makes you have to hold the iron forever and you risk destroying your equipment due to overheating it.
Also...ALWAYS USE FLUX!!!!! For the life of me so many in the RC world seem to of never heard of flux. They'll say that the solder has some in it...so what!?!? You NEED to brush a light coating of flux onto each part to be soldered to ensure a good hot-joint. I know....as I was a crewcheif on CH-46E helicopters while in the USMC. I've soldered and worked on plenty of avionics boxes and was trained to do it right.
: When solder has completely flowed though both wires and between both surfaces. A hot-joint will always have a very smooth and shiny appearance after soldering and the parts will be strongly joined together. Hot-joints have the best possible electrical conductivity and are extremely strong.
: When the solder doesn't completely flow between the two surfaces. Typical cold joints on a wire only have solder on one side and visible braid is still seen on the other. Cold joints typically are very chunky and dirty looking plus the luster of the solder is like that of a flat silver. Not using flux and a high enough temperature is the #1 reason for cold-joints. Cold joints have horrible conductivity and are not very strong.
If you need to hold your iron to make a joint for more than 1-2 seconds, you are not using a high enough temperature or the wrong tip...or both.