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Old 12-12-2012, 06:40 PM   #1066
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Photon ex conversion kit for sale. Brand new! Part way assembled from old photon. Get both chassis, and parts. 300
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:05 PM   #1067
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What online store is the best place to buy option parts for this car? I know AMain has a good amount of stuff, but I'm looking for stuff they don't have.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:28 PM   #1068
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What online store is the best place to buy option parts for this car? I know AMain has a good amount of stuff, but I'm looking for stuff they don't have.
What are you looking for?
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:10 AM   #1069
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What are you looking for?
Option center servo mount, mainly. Also looking for the best d-joints to use with minimal modification.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:31 AM   #1070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
Option center servo mount, mainly. Also looking for the best d-joints to use with minimal modification.
The Sakura DCJ's work great. Put some in my EX recently and love them. Just need to make a slight mod to the inside of the c-hubs and shim out the spool out-drives a little if running shims behind your hing pin holders. Or you could buy some of the new larger opening c-hubs TOP just released. A main should be carrying these soon or you can buy any part you need from TOP USA direct.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:29 AM   #1071
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You can also try www.rcring.eu
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:53 PM   #1072
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Would be cool to see that old ODfella come out and bring one of those EX things!
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:54 AM   #1073
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Default New optional parts from www.rcring.eu

Well, thanks to www.rcring.eu again, I received some new optional parts.Threre has been two weeks or so, but I just managed to present them, due to my really busy work schedule.

First two and most important were the stiff chassis and upper plate. Our tracks are from big to huge and too much flex doesn't seem to work, for me at least.





After installing them, the car seems to have way less flex, but not zero, and this was proven at the track.


Next optional part was the new ver.2 servo mount. It is going to be next year that I will try this versus the flowting servo mount, as for the time being there is very limited time for practice again!But its nice:


Nitride coated shock shafts are always a very nice upgrade when you want to change your shock shafts, and along with the derlin pistons and new kyosho xrings made my shocks very smooth, and of course good looking!


The car now is really better, faster, and more stable than before, and that was proven also in last Sunday's race...



I'll keep you updated with that the next few days, as Sofia is going to kill me, waiting for me to turn off my laptop and go for dinner!!!

See you all gyus...or I hope so!
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:26 AM   #1074
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Hey Guys,

Just curious if anyone has had issues with their cars...

I've had MASSIVE handling issues since building mine. Recently I shelved it, but decided to strip it right down and start from scratch.

So, with a bare chassis it sits nice and flat on a board. With bulkheads, same. Install topdeck (Which is new), and the chassis is bowed (The middle, between the front and rear bulkheads sits off the board around 0.5mm, enough to slide a 150mm steel rule under). The topdeck has the same hole centres as my old one. Its as though its 0.5mm or so to long, or the chassis is not drilled correctly. The bulkheads all looked fine (not bent, holes seemed to be in the same places)

Any help would be appreciated. As said, car has handled off since its first run.

I have emailed TOP Australia, and its a bad time of year to be emailing anyone, so thought I would ask here in the meantime.

Cheers
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:45 AM   #1075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamWTF View Post
Hey Guys,

Just curious if anyone has had issues with their cars...

I've had MASSIVE handling issues since building mine. Recently I shelved it, but decided to strip it right down and start from scratch.

So, with a bare chassis it sits nice and flat on a board. With bulkheads, same. Install topdeck (Which is new), and the chassis is bowed (The middle, between the front and rear bulkheads sits off the board around 0.5mm, enough to slide a 150mm steel rule under). The topdeck has the same hole centres as my old one. Its as though its 0.5mm or so to long, or the chassis is not drilled correctly. The bulkheads all looked fine (not bent, holes seemed to be in the same places)

Any help would be appreciated. As said, car has handled off since its first run.

I have emailed TOP Australia, and its a bad time of year to be emailing anyone, so thought I would ask here in the meantime.

Cheers
Phill
I had the same problem when building my car up... if you put screws in the holes at the front of the top deck and then check the holes on the motor mount were slightly off on mine. I took the top deck off again and enlarged all the holes slightly testing every so often until I got to the point were the top deck would go on without bowing the chassis. Don't do it too much and do it for all holes rather than just the ones on the motor bulkhead.

I should also say that, here in the UK, a lot of us are only running with screws in the very front top deck holes, the very rear and two in the front motor bulkhead holes (so six screws in all).

Stephen
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:28 AM   #1076
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Another option - loosen all of the screws going into the top/bottom/side of motor mount and see IG it goes away.

We've been putting a set screw in from the back side of the "side" motor mount screw that connect the two metal pieces. The set screw is used to give a "pressure" to the two counter head screws without fully tightening the part. The set screw trick prevents the counter head screws from backing out more/being lost while racing.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:00 AM   #1077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Another option - loosen all of the screws going into the top/bottom/side of motor mount and see IG it goes away.

We've been putting a set screw in from the back side of the "side" motor mount screw that connect the two metal pieces. The set screw is used to give a "pressure" to the two counter head screws without fully tightening the part. The set screw trick prevents the counter head screws from backing out more/being lost while racing.
This could not be more confusing. Please post a picture.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #1078
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cars in the car.. and its cold outside. lets try this description -- this time w/ part numbers

the set screws go into the 'top motor plate support' TC-PXCH014RD from the 'battery side' of the chassis.
the existing flat head screws from the 'top motor plate' TC-PXCH012RD and adjust the set screws so that the existing two flat head screws are just a 1/8 turn from being snug. the set screws allow you to snug the flat head screws against the set screw w/in the top motor plate support
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:57 AM   #1079
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I've updated most of my set-up sheets to Arn0. I you guy's have any interest:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...PPhotonEX.html

Regards Robert
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:14 PM   #1080
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Thanks for the responses guys,

Drilling the topdeck
I wanted to avoid this... Also on my car the overall hole centres are to long (bulkhead to bulkhead). But drilling would still work to de tweak the car initially.

Motor Mount
I completely stripped the car down and checked every thing. I even installed the topdeck with all bulkhead/motor mount screws loose and tightened everything up together. Still the same tweak.

TOP Australia got back to me and everything should be sorted with some new parts I was VERY impressed to get such a fast response this time of year!!

Cheers
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