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Old 10-23-2012, 05:59 AM   #976
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I've been running the Arrowmax T3 dcj's and they are working out quite well also.
Yes.. but that would require Mira outdrives to work in a photon.... and those are sold out
What is with the new avatar jerry? U dont like my pretty face?
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:56 PM   #977
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My New EX is running the Arrowmax ECS's for the Tamiya 417 they work with the stock Top C-Hub's, Stock Steering Knuckles, and the stock king pin collars. also work on the stock front spool without the need for the CVD Blades the only thing not stock is you have to use a 5x10x3mm inner wheel bearing but they have held up just fine with lots and lots of packs run through them.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #978
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Thanx guys, all good info... lots of options.

Decided to try the HB DJC's (in original photon) and reflex racing in the EX

Cheers
Alan
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:53 AM   #979
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What is with the new avatar jerry? U dont like my pretty face?
Because people were mistaking me for a white dude. Those who dont know you thought it was a self portrait of me.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:38 AM   #980
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Hey, lookie what I found.
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T.O.P. PHOTON EX-top.jpg  
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:11 AM   #981
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Hey, lookie what I found.
I saw that too and it's going for $250. Not sure what it has in the kit to justify.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:14 AM   #982
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Because people were mistaking me for a white dude. Those who dont know you thought it was a self portrait of me.
Any now it is!


I wish they would make a conversion to fit the EX steering and mounts onto a photon chassis.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:21 AM   #983
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http://rc-evo.com/xbbs/forum.php?mod...ead&tid=272052
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:55 AM   #984
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where can i pick up a top battery strap
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:46 AM   #985
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Hello,

I have a Photon EX on the way, and am transitioning from an Xray T3. I've only raced 17.5 stock blinky and have been trying to do some research in terms of what parts to get to setup for a low traction carpet scenario.

My first question is regarding the gear diff, I don't see in the manual what is recommended as a starting point for low traction but is it the same as the T3 (700-1000 cst) or do you guys recommend something else?


Finally, for a starting point on low traction carpet I'm thinking of using 324 gf/mm in the front and 289 gf/mm in the rear. Would that be too soft or are the kit springs a good enough starting point for my case?

Last edited by hcw5733; 10-28-2012 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #986
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Hello,

I have a Photon EX on the way, and am transitioning from an Xray T3. I've only raced 17.5 stock blinky and have been trying to do some research in terms of what parts to get to setup for a low traction carpet scenario.

My first question is regarding the gear diff, I don't see in the manual what is recommended as a starting point for low traction but is it the same as the T3 (700-1000 cst) or do you guys recommend something else?


Finally, for a starting point on low traction carpet I'm thinking of using 324 gf/mm in the front and 289 gf/mm in the rear. Would that be too soft or are the kit springs a good enough starting point for my case?


For low traction, I would start with the box stock set up. Its for asphalt, which should be a good starting point for low traction carpet. 700-1000 cst sounds about right. I would soak the diff o-rings in WD-40 for a few hours or a day before you assemble. It will keep them from leaking.

@goslow. Top Racing USA, or Amain hobbies will have the strap.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:33 AM   #987
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id recommend xray 2000cst for the gear diff in the rear

the ex had a nearly perfect weekend on the rug at the halloween classic. mr fairtrace TQ'd 17.5t rubber tire but had some bad luck in the race to end up 3rd. his car was blazing fast -- 0.2s quicker than anyone else on hot lap.

myself and jerry p where running a much different setup (somewhat easier to drive for us) and put the car in the B and C -- with both of us having potential for so much more if we just wouldn't blow out

this upcoming weekend we should have some more testing time and will then post up a setup sheet(s).
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:12 AM   #988
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Hey Guys,

I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...

The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!

ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)

L/R balance is perfect

I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.

This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.

As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.

Any help appreciated...

Phill
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:16 AM   #989
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Hey Guys,

I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...

The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!

ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)

L/R balance is perfect

I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.

This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.

As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.

Any help appreciated...

Phill
I have struggled with this myself with the EX, I'm honestly not sure if maybe there is a tweak in something I can't find, but I'm always untweaking with droop etc to get even lift/steer etc, actually I'm curious to try the floating servo mount, just in case the tweak comes from the new servo mounting layout.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:43 AM   #990
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Originally Posted by TeamWTF View Post
Hey Guys,

I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...

The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!

ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)

L/R balance is perfect

I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.

This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.

As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.

Any help appreciated...

Phill
I have actually found that the Photon EX has tweaked less than previous cars I have owned but this is possible down to pure luck and hitting less...

It sounds like you have a build up of tweak which could, in my opinion, come from several different places;

Top deck
Shock towers
Roll bars
Motor mount
Servo mounting

The first thing I would do is get yourself a very flat surface (I use a piece of toughened glass). Disconnect the shocks and roll bars.

I would actually take the servo out of the car. Then loosen of the top deck screws, the screws that hold the bulkheads down and the screws holding the shock towers on.

Put the car on the glass and check that it is flat... if it isn't then you may have managed to bend a bulkhead or some alloy part of the car... in that case it is a complete strip down and check each alloy part on the glass plate to ensure that it is flat. Then start building the car back up checking on the glass after you put each part onto the car to see if it changes.

But hopefully you do not have to go that far... start by re-tightening the upper bulkhead parts (that the shock towers attach to) and then tighten the shock towers... check still flat. Next get a friend to push down on the shock towers to keep the chassis flat as you tighten the top deck screws starting at back right screw, then front left, rear left, front right, tightening diagonal screws... check still flat...

For the servo I would recommend the new floating mount but for the current mount loosen of the screws that attaches the servo and put the servo back in place, tightening the screws that attach it to the chassis. Then put a thin piece of car between the servo and the chassis and tighten the screws holding the servo to the servo mounts (the card holds the servo off the chassis by a tiny amount)... remove the card when the screws are tightened... guess what... check still flat.

Now attach the roll bars and check (one of those could be bent) and finally attach the shocks again.

I check my car for tweak after each run and very rarely do I have to do anything other than loosen the top deck screws and then re-tighten.

Hope this helps and you get sorted...

Stephen
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