There's already a bunch of threads on cheap chassis advice. But the breakdown is something like: Schumacher Mi1 $165, 3Racing Zero S $100, Associated TC5 $199, or a second hand Xray/Tamiya/AE whatever chassis.
I have a Mi1, and have seen both TC5 and Zero S's in person and in action. The Zero S offers the most flexibility and cheapest parts, the Mi1 is super tough, the TC5 the best spec'd.
Zero S is a great place to start. Parts being so cheap is a good thing, but you can also upgrade the car as parts break, allowing you to end up with a car dripping in alloy and CF, but not having to fork out for it straight away. The 3Racing cars have got a lot of options pulley wise, they have a few different layshaft and diff pulley sizes, so should be pretty easy to CS the car when you want.
If you setup 2 layshafts, and some extra diffs, you would be able to change between drift and touring very quickly. On my XI its only a total of 10 screws to remove front and rear diffs and the layshaft, the S is similar but it depends on what alloy and CF parts your running. So if you had everything spare it would be maybe 10mins at most to change over. A whole gear diff is only $25, but the S does come with 2, so youd only need $10 worth of extra pulleys for CS on one diff, and a spool that could be moved front to rear when changing to drift or visa versa with touring.
Supporting Aussie hobby shops:
- www.MRJRacing.com.au - - www.feralbatteries.com.au - - www.actionrc.com.au -