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Old 01-01-2015, 09:16 PM   #1306
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Thanks Mike, i'm gonna run 1mm under and 4mm on top.

Aaron or Mike: What size(thickness) shim are you running under the xray saver?
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:35 PM   #1307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Thanks Mike, i'm gonna run 1mm under and 4mm on top.

Aaron or Mike: What size(thickness) shim are you running under the xray saver?
I'm using 3mm. We both actually made custom plates that acts as 3mm spacers but also bolt onto the servo saver and lengthened the arm by about 8mm to help reduce the ackerman for more aggressive mid corner steering.
Something I might release later to get rid of that dreaded mid corner push these f1 cars seem to have on asphalt
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:37 AM   #1308
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Awesome thanks. I will have to try using tires some day
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:12 AM   #1309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi,
3mm is a lot of deflection and really not possible I think. Are you sure you meant .3mm movement? Mine have some play but no issue really. It is the tolerance needed so that metal thread can screw into metal thread.
Hi Mike.
Just an idea: do you, or the company that anodize your parts protect the threads? This might cause the problem Monkey is reffering. Machined M3 thread doesnt have such play.

(edit)
Problem might be of course in the turnbuckle as well. Easiest Monkey can do is to measure the outer diameter of turnbuckle.
(/edit)
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Last edited by Acid_CZ; 01-02-2015 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:08 AM   #1310
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Had my first run with the IFS this evening and overall impressions are very positive. Generally, the whole front end is much more progressive and predictable which has made the car easier to drive.

My first learning is that the inner camber link ball studs I used were too short and one popped out after a relatively minor hit. I then replaced both of them with 8mm ones (see picture).

However, I'm finding rear grip a bit of a problem with my F1R2 (even before the IFS), so I'm looking for suggestions. My current choice of centre springs is limited, so I'm running a Tamiya red (white with the red dot) which is probably the softest I have. On-power steering isn't too bad, but it pushes quite badly off power. I have quite a lot of pod droop, most likely too much, but I'll need to put an o-ring in the damper to reduce it any more. That may sound like the rear isn't too bad, but that's with Ride S1's up front and Shimizu 575's at the back. With anything grippier on the front, it spins very easily. It's also very difficult to get power down out of corners as the rear squirms very badly.

I've attached some photos - silver side springs, 450 weight oil in the centre damper, 100k oil in the side damper tubes. The pod movement is smooth and seems quite heavily damped. Despite appearances, the wiring is loose and flexible.

I'm no expert, but the diff seems smooth and only slips under quite firm hand pressure.

The tracks I race on are almost always low-medium grip outdoor asphalt.

Phil.
Attached Thumbnails
Exotek F1R-ballstuds.jpg   Exotek F1R-img_0188.jpg   Exotek F1R-img_0190.jpg   Exotek F1R-img_0191.jpg  
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:25 AM   #1311
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I would say your damper tube grease is waay too thick. I operate in the 10k to 30k range.

Try a neon red center spring, a little less Pod droop, and what rear axle are you running? Cf or steel? Also try Associates black side springs or tamiya coppers.

Hope this helps the rear.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:54 AM   #1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Had my first run with the IFS this evening and overall impressions are very positive. Generally, the whole front end is much more progressive and predictable which has made the car easier to drive.

My first learning is that the inner camber link ball studs I used were too short and one popped out after a relatively minor hit. I then replaced both of them with 8mm ones (see picture).

However, I'm finding rear grip a bit of a problem with my F1R2 (even before the IFS), so I'm looking for suggestions. My current choice of centre springs is limited, so I'm running a Tamiya red (white with the red dot) which is probably the softest I have. On-power steering isn't too bad, but it pushes quite badly off power. I have quite a lot of pod droop, most likely too much, but I'll need to put an o-ring in the damper to reduce it any more. That may sound like the rear isn't too bad, but that's with Ride S1's up front and Shimizu 575's at the back. With anything grippier on the front, it spins very easily. It's also very difficult to get power down out of corners as the rear squirms very badly.

I've attached some photos - silver side springs, 450 weight oil in the centre damper, 100k oil in the side damper tubes. The pod movement is smooth and seems quite heavily damped. Despite appearances, the wiring is loose and flexible.

I'm no expert, but the diff seems smooth and only slips under quite firm hand pressure.

The tracks I race on are almosAnt always low-medium grip outdoor asphalt.

Phil.
For rear grip I would reduce your rear droop to 2mm by reducing the shock length (not with o rings in the shock). There should be plenty of thread to do this if you relocate the ball end on the battery brace to the forward hole instead of the rearward one as you have it curretly. Looks like you must have the standard length trf shock not the mini trf shock hence you've run out of thread.

I'd also move your battery to the back and rewire your esc to be infront of your battery.

damper tube grease should be closer to 10k not 100k.

shock oil should be a bit thinner. Probably close to 300-400cst with a 3 hole shock piston.

With the IFS I would assume rear grip is more the priority. There should be plenty of front grip.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:09 AM   #1313
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(Hi,
3mm is a lot of deflection and really not possible I think. Are you sure you meant .3mm movement? Mine have some play but no issue really. It is the tolerance needed so that metal thread can screw into metal thread.
)

There was play bending up and down 3mm in total for real. Next day, when thread lock get completly solid, connection looks solid. Lets see after some driving if it last.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:03 AM   #1314
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing.cz View Post
There was play bending up and down 3mm in total for real. Next day, when thread lock get completly solid, connection looks solid. Lets see after some driving if it last.
just curious, what turnbuckles do you use in that loose connection? Material and brand.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:39 AM   #1315
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Originally Posted by Acid_CZ View Post
just curious, what turnbuckles do you use in that loose connection? Material and brand.
Turnbuckles are included in the kit and they are made of some kind of aluminium alloy I guess.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:37 PM   #1316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Had my first run with the IFS this evening and overall impressions are very positive. Generally, the whole front end is much more progressive and predictable which has made the car easier to drive.

My first learning is that the inner camber link ball studs I used were too short and one popped out after a relatively minor hit. I then replaced both of them with 8mm ones (see picture).

However, I'm finding rear grip a bit of a problem with my F1R2 (even before the IFS), so I'm looking for suggestions. My current choice of centre springs is limited, so I'm running a Tamiya red (white with the red dot) which is probably the softest I have. On-power steering isn't too bad, but it pushes quite badly off power. I have quite a lot of pod droop, most likely too much, but I'll need to put an o-ring in the damper to reduce it any more. That may sound like the rear isn't too bad, but that's with Ride S1's up front and Shimizu 575's at the back. With anything grippier on the front, it spins very easily. It's also very difficult to get power down out of corners as the rear squirms very badly.

I've attached some photos - silver side springs, 450 weight oil in the centre damper, 100k oil in the side damper tubes. The pod movement is smooth and seems quite heavily damped. Despite appearances, the wiring is loose and flexible.

I'm no expert, but the diff seems smooth and only slips under quite firm hand pressure.

The tracks I race on are almost always low-medium grip outdoor asphalt.

Phil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
I would say your damper tube grease is waay too thick. I operate in the 10k to 30k range.

Try a neon red center spring, a little less Pod droop, and what rear axle are you running? Cf or steel? Also try Associates black side springs or tamiya coppers.

Hope this helps the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
For rear grip I would reduce your rear droop to 2mm by reducing the shock length (not with o rings in the shock). There should be plenty of thread to do this if you relocate the ball end on the battery brace to the forward hole instead of the rearward one as you have it curretly. Looks like you must have the standard length trf shock not the mini trf shock hence you've run out of thread.

I'd also move your battery to the back and rewire your esc to be infront of your battery.

damper tube grease should be closer to 10k not 100k.

shock oil should be a bit thinner. Probably close to 300-400cst with a 3 hole shock piston.

With the IFS I would assume rear grip is more the priority. There should be plenty of front grip.
Dang... J-pap and Boostinswifty38 beat me to it!!! there advice is exactly what i would have suggested

Aaron
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Old 01-06-2015, 03:06 PM   #1317
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Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.

I should be able to implement most of the changes without too much hassle. I'll need to find the fluro spring somewhere and will need to hunt down a longer sensor lead.

As I said, initial impressions of the IFS are very encouraging, but the F1R2 definitely has a lot more steering than my previous F1 iterations
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:56 PM   #1318
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I just tried the F1R2 today with the IFS and have to say the car felt really good. Lot less bouncy on rougher surfaces. In fact it was a lot smoother coming in and out of turns rather than the car fighting for grip through the corner. I normally run Pit 571 front/ Ride R1 rear but switched to Ride R1's front and rear. These tyres on the front normally cause a heap of understeer but the car felt well balanced. Was untimed so I don't know if there was any sort of improvement in lap time. I'll be testing it further in a few weeks at an event so hopefully not much will change set up wise.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:07 AM   #1319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
I just tried the F1R2 today with the IFS and have to say the car felt really good. Lot less bouncy on rougher surfaces. In fact it was a lot smoother coming in and out of turns rather than the car fighting for grip through the corner. I normally run Pit 571 front/ Ride R1 rear but switched to Ride R1's front and rear. These tyres on the front normally cause a heap of understeer but the car felt well balanced. Was untimed so I don't know if there was any sort of improvement in lap time. I'll be testing it further in a few weeks at an event so hopefully not much will change set up wise.
I know right?! No more bouncing Mario Kart and now a real carving race car
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:05 PM   #1320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
I'm using 3mm. We both actually made custom plates that acts as 3mm spacers but also bolt onto the servo saver and lengthened the arm by about 8mm to help reduce the ackerman for more aggressive mid corner steering.
Something I might release later to get rid of that dreaded mid corner push these f1 cars seem to have on asphalt
you need to make these plates! I want one bad
please
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