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Old 10-07-2014, 08:13 AM   #1141
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My son's car has one on it (F104 diffuser on the old F1R). It was on there when we bought it used, but it looks like the previous owner just cut up a stock F104 lower pod plate and then screwed it on using the 2 screws at the rear of the F1R lower pod plate.
Thanks for your reply. I just thought maybe I can mount it in a way that makes it flush with the rest of the chassis.

Another question: Are the F104v2 side links compatible with the old F1R?
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:32 AM   #1142
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Thanks for your reply. I just thought maybe I can mount it in a way that makes it flush with the rest of the chassis.

Another question: Are the F104v2 side links compatible with the old F1R?
I have only ever seen the 104 diffuser mounted on top of the carbon plate... It would be really cool to mold a diffuser though so that it mounts flush!!

The F1R and F1R2 both use the Associated 1/12th scale side links and football. they are a lot more robust than the 104 parts and don't come on parts trees
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:15 AM   #1143
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Hey hows it going? Could you possibly post a picture of what you're talking about?



I just ran carpet on Thursday night so I'd be happy to explain my process a little better

Applying the AW Grease: I use the tube that tamiya sells and apply grease to every other ball on one side. Then I flip the gear and then grease the balls that i skipped on the previous side. So that way each ball gets greased once (grease 6 balls on one side and grease the other 6 balls on the opposite side). You want to apply just enough grease completely the cover the ball in the hole of the spur gear.

Setting the diff: The diff will seem really thick with the grease and viscous. So you cannot set the diff by spinning the tires in the opposite direction. I set the diff just until I cant spin the spur gear as both of the tires are locked down. Some tires I will tighten it another 1/8 turn past this point as well.

Life of AW Grease: Typically I will regrease my car every day its at the track to keep things consistent. You should be able to get a full day with the grease fresh every day. normally if I'm at the track and regrease my diff more than once it is because the diff looses the "viscous" feeling.

I hope this helps some? I wish I could go to IIC this year but my school schedule worked out to where I would miss too much practice....
I ran the other night after using the AW grease as you outlined - you weren't kidding about the instant 2 tenths - I went from a 10.4 to a 10.2 first run!

Thanks for sharing all of your expertise on this forum!
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:41 AM   #1144
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I ran the other night after using the AW grease as you outlined - you weren't kidding about the instant 2 tenths - I went from a 10.4 to a 10.2 first run!

Thanks for sharing all of your expertise on this forum!
haha I yeah I wasnt lying about the 2 tenths! I'm glad you got it all figured out for IIC though

Also something that you try for carpet vs asphalt: what bearing are you running in the diff? (the standard ball bearing or tamiya's caged thrust bearing). I've found on carpet that the standard bearing can handle a bit better/ make the car rotate more consistent over the caged thrust bearing. Something else to try if you get back to the track before IIC

Any other questions and I'd be happy to help!
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:24 PM   #1145
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What type of balls do you use for the diff it self? Steel or Ceramic?
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:28 PM   #1146
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What type of balls do you use for the diff it self? Steel or Ceramic?
I have been using ceramic balls for a while now with good success.

As long as your diff feels smooth with no tires on it I think both materials are ok. Typically with ceramic balls, because the material is so hard, you need to run the diff tighter in order to not make it slip
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:22 PM   #1147
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I have been using ceramic balls for a while now with good success.

As long as your diff feels smooth with no tires on it I think both materials are ok. Typically with ceramic balls, because the material is so hard, you need to run the diff tighter in order to not make it slip
I have been running Ceramic in mine for 2 years now. Only way to go. I also wet sand the diff rings on a thick piece of glass to make sure they are flat.
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:36 AM   #1148
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Ok so I ran the new setup last night. The front wing for the 2012 ferrari sucks. Ordering up the Mclrean ASAP. The carbon tube I put under the wing to stiffen it up broke.

My car will not take off straight under power at all. It wants to pull hard to the right. I Have checked everthing I could think of last night with no success. Relubed diff. Diff was real tight at the end of the night. Still looped out under full throttle.

Sterring was better but it wanted to turn in real hard under acceleration. Like it didn't want to stop turnning. I had 20wt oil in the side dampers at the start of the night but ended up with Buds lube in there at the end of the night. Car was better but so unpredictable.

I think those tcs rear tires might be too hard for our track. Going to order a set of pits softs as well.

Wow this car is super frustrating right now. My old f1r was way better than the new car has been as of yet. I do have faith though.
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:00 PM   #1149
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Ok so I ran the new setup last night. The front wing for the 2012 ferrari sucks. Ordering up the Mclrean ASAP. The carbon tube I put under the wing to stiffen it up broke.

My car will not take off straight under power at all. It wants to pull hard to the right. I Have checked everthing I could think of last night with no success. Relubed diff. Diff was real tight at the end of the night. Still looped out under full throttle.

Sterring was better but it wanted to turn in real hard under acceleration. Like it didn't want to stop turnning. I had 20wt oil in the side dampers at the start of the night but ended up with Buds lube in there at the end of the night. Car was better but so unpredictable.

I think those tcs rear tires might be too hard for our track. Going to order a set of pits softs as well.

Wow this car is super frustrating right now. My old f1r was way better than the new car has been as of yet. I do have faith though.
Sounds to me like the front end setup is too aggressive. The TCS tires have plenty of side and forward bite. Are you cleaning the rear tires every run? That makes a huge difference in how they behave. You will get nowhere trying to do all the tuning in the rear of the chassis
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:27 PM   #1150
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All tires are new. 2nd night of running was last night. I don't usually clean them but they do get a full dose of sxt 3.0. I think I will go to the sliver spring in the front instead of the soft associated for the next race night. What are you cleaning the tires with? I just picked up some gravity r/c traction compound but the jury is still out on if I like it or not. Have to get the car handling better before I say if its any good.
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:55 PM   #1151
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What sucks about the 2012 wing? I've never tried any other wing..
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:56 PM   #1152
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Mine is drooping and rubbing on the track.
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:50 PM   #1153
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All tires are new. 2nd night of running was last night. I don't usually clean them but they do get a full dose of sxt 3.0. I think I will go to the sliver spring in the front instead of the soft associated for the next race night. What are you cleaning the tires with? I just picked up some gravity r/c traction compound but the jury is still out on if I like it or not. Have to get the car handling better before I say if its any good.
I clean my tires after every run with lighter fluid (its cheap) you can also use tuning Haus's tire cleaner as well. Also how much are you saucing the front tire? I only sauce the inside 1/4 to 1/3 of the tire

Was the front-end setup a lot different on the old F1r then what you're running now?
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:17 PM   #1154
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Originally Posted by Paco1001 View Post
Ok so I ran the new setup last night. The front wing for the 2012 ferrari sucks. Ordering up the Mclrean ASAP. The carbon tube I put under the wing to stiffen it up broke.

My car will not take off straight under power at all. It wants to pull hard to the right. I Have checked everthing I could think of last night with no success. Relubed diff. Diff was real tight at the end of the night. Still looped out under full throttle.

Sterring was better but it wanted to turn in real hard under acceleration. Like it didn't want to stop turnning. I had 20wt oil in the side dampers at the start of the night but ended up with Buds lube in there at the end of the night. Car was better but so unpredictable.

I think those tcs rear tires might be too hard for our track. Going to order a set of pits softs as well.

Wow this car is super frustrating right now. My old f1r was way better than the new car has been as of yet. I do have faith though.
Brad may be right regarding front set up being too aggressive.
Have you tried running the battery to the rear? You mention you like the older F1R handling- the F1R was a rear biased car to try and plant the rear end of the car for the tires that were available at the time (pre-Shimizu 72 and 75 tires). With the new generation of Shimizu tires the F1R2 came about to maximize overall grip and especially steering. If your track is lacking the grip then maybe try running the F1R style- weight to the back.

Previously you noted the car kept pulling left, now you mention it is pulling right. Also did you say your car is pushing? That usually indicates overall lack of tire grip if there's a loose rear and pushy front. Did you mention what you're saucing with other than gravity?

One other thing I noticed from your pic is to try is maybe reroute the motor wires over the top of the rear shock plate. If wires are going under the side dampers they could be tweaking the pod. I love 16g TQ Wire brand- it is heaven sent for pan cars! Thin insulation means less pod tweak
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:42 PM   #1155
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Brad may be right regarding front set up being too aggressive.
Have you tried running the battery to the rear? You mention you like the older F1R handling- the F1R was a rear biased car to try and plant the rear end of the car for the tires that were available at the time (pre-Shimizu 72 and 75 tires). With the new generation of Shimizu tires the F1R2 came about to maximize overall grip and especially steering. If your track is lacking the grip then maybe try running the F1R style- weight to the back.

Previously you noted the car kept pulling left, now you mention it is pulling right. Also did you say your car is pushing? That usually indicates overall lack of tire grip if there's a loose rear and pushy front. Did you mention what you're saucing with other than gravity?

One other thing I noticed from your pic is to try is maybe reroute the motor wires over the top of the rear shock plate. If wires are going under the side dampers they could be tweaking the pod. I love 16g TQ Wire brand- it is heaven sent for pan cars! Thin insulation means less pod tweak
I ran the battery forward in the f1r as well. I will move the wires from under the damper links. I was running 1/2 compound on the front on Friday night. I still think that wing is giving me grief.
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