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Old 07-22-2012, 06:48 AM   #391
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Im not sure of the terminology, or of my theory. But with the with the widetrack front end at max width, could that be the issue? Help me here but with the upright still being at 180mm and the axle/wheels extended outward, wouldnt that cause scrub/drag/badthings? At 190mm may not be an issue, but thats almost an inch more of axle. I know what Im trying to say, just not sure of how t get it across, Hopefully someone is as demented as me and can translate. thanks. back under my rock.
That's what I'm thinking about as well. He might want to run the F103 front end if it's a 200mm class.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:18 PM   #392
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as ttc said, with the widest front end, you will get added wheel scrub from slip angle when the tires are turned. its only 3/8" wider on the axle(per side).
what camber and spring are on the front end?

try to lighten the side dampening of the rear pod(free it up), add a small amount of droop and make sure the chassis is level in the middle of the car at ride height. if the center is higher than the ends(front and rear), it can become darty.
Exactly
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:40 PM   #393
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thanks everyone
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:49 PM   #394
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I am almost finished building my F1R and tried fitting my Tamiya F60 and original F104 Pro bodies on it but the fit is not too good at the side link area and requires a lot of body trimming to prevent rubbing that not only exposes the rear part of the chassis but also makes the body a lot less attractive.

I guess my problem is that my current bodies use the additional screw/bolt on side pods that make them look more scale but also narrower. For those of you who use either body on your F1R, did you use/not use the additional bolt on side pods? How did you cut that section of the body to make it fit the chassis without any parts rubbing and keep the body "pretty"?
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:52 PM   #395
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I just cut clean and as little as possible, but its unavoidable.
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:26 PM   #396
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I am almost finished building my F1R and tried fitting my Tamiya F60 and original F104 Pro bodies on it but the fit is not too good at the side link area and requires a lot of body trimming to prevent rubbing that not only exposes the rear part of the chassis but also makes the body a lot less attractive.

I guess my problem is that my current bodies use the additional screw/bolt on side pods that make them look more scale but also narrower. For those of you who use either body on your F1R, did you use/not use the additional bolt on side pods? How did you cut that section of the body to make it fit the chassis without any parts rubbing and keep the body "pretty"?
@BDC: Now I know why you have not been attending the club races.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:59 PM   #397
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@BDC: Now I know why you have not been attending the club races.
Busted!


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I just cut clean and as little as possible, but its unavoidable.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:09 AM   #398
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@BDC: Now I know why you have not been attending the club races.
Cant wait to see your F1R on the track. Will it have the same problem of spring popping and bent links as the 104 V2?
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:31 AM   #399
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Cant wait to see your F1R on the track. Will it have the same problem of spring popping and bent links as the 104 V2?
Probably. . I'm actually building my f1r using extra parts and hardware. I will still have my 104pro on stand by.

As for springs popping out, maybe i will have to look for magnets eventually.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:09 AM   #400
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Shoe Goo on the side springs works wonders. You can still take them off, but they don't fall off.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:22 AM   #401
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Originally Posted by Big Daddy Cool View Post
I am almost finished building my F1R and tried fitting my Tamiya F60 and original F104 Pro bodies on it but the fit is not too good at the side link area and requires a lot of body trimming to prevent rubbing that not only exposes the rear part of the chassis but also makes the body a lot less attractive.

I guess my problem is that my current bodies use the additional screw/bolt on side pods that make them look more scale but also narrower. For those of you who use either body on your F1R, did you use/not use the additional bolt on side pods? How did you cut that section of the body to make it fit the chassis without any parts rubbing and keep the body "pretty"?
You can also use the FGX body.
The rear pod of the FGX clears the rear Side Springs better.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #402
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That's what I'm thinking about as well. He might want to run the F103 front end if it's a 200mm class.

I found when running the F1R in 200mm, the car would randomly rotate around the outside front wheel, I tried everything, in the end i found by using a Stubby pack upto the Servo with electrics behind it fixed the problem.

I got the idea from my wgt where if i require less steering you move the cell forward (something to do with pivot points).

Anyway it worked for me

(Running 21.5 boosted on foams 200mm)
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #403
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can anyone give a newb some driven tips on this f1r 104w.its a lot diff from my touring car..21.5
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:19 PM   #404
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can anyone give a newb some driven tips on this f1r 104w.its a lot diff from my touring car..21.5
Check the VII link in my sig
Lots of useful info that applies to all link cars
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:31 PM   #405
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You can also use the FGX body.
The rear pod of the FGX clears the rear Side Springs better.
I'll look into that. thanks!


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Shoe Goo on the side springs works wonders. You can still take them off, but they don't fall off.

Yes, the Exotek manual recommends that or silicone sealer. I dabbed on some of the latter on my springs and it looks like they will hold them in place. I'm also thinking of tethering the springs with thin fishing line so I won't lose them even if they still pop off. It wouldn't be such an issue if we had these parts readily available in our area though.
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