viking44

Question for you guys (but mostly for MikeR) using the carbon rear wing stay/bulkhead plate. I picked it up recently for my R3 and noticed one of the aluminum standoffs had a flat side to it. I couldn't figure out what the flat side was for and was even more confused cause only one of them had it. A little clarification please. Untitled by pjvizconde, on Flickr

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

No purpose on the wing mount. Just looks like 1 post received a flat cut and 1 didn't. Probably mixed production runs sorry.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

He was on the new CRC chassis. He built the conversion when he got there on Monday.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Things I did at the Snowbirds to combat traction roll-

• Add some droop to the front end to let the car roll more without lifting the inside tires and flipping.
• Go softer on your side springs or switch to a linear spring like SpeedMerchant
• Softer front springs to let the car roll more
• Glue the sidewalls of both your front AND rear tires. Also, when you clean your tires, make sure that you clean the sidewalls, too. This is more of a rubber tire thing than foams, but I'm throwing it in there.
• Mount your center shock more forward. I was running the F1R3, but I removed the stock battery plate and standoffs and replaced them with the F1R2 brace and some threaded standoffs. This moved the forward shock mounting position forward quite a bit. I ran a longer ball cup on the bottom end of the shock to accommodate the longer distance between the mounting points. I also ran a firmer spring with the shock in this position. (Yokomo Blue)

I'll post my complete Snowbirds setup when I get home. I changed quite a bit on the car to make it work on the new CRC carpet, but in the main the car was on a rail. I just needed to tighten up a bit as a driver (7th overall). The car was definitely better than my F1R2 was last year.

viking44

Thanks Mike! Already had it installed, just trying to figure out what I could use the flat spot for.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Here's the setup that I ran in Orlando. If you run on really high traction (new CRC carpet), it should get you in the ballpark.

Note- in the notes for the shock, it should say that I used the battery strap from the F1R2, not the F1R3.

idbdoug

iTrader: (41)

Did you choose the graphite chassis on purpose instead of aluminum version???
Did that not allow the IFS front end?
I was about to order the aluminum version because we are getting the new crc carpet so Im just curious why you chose the graphite over the aluminum version?
thanks for anymore info
idbdoug

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Funny thing- I started out with the aluminum chassis, but I kept running into problems at the tech table. The chassis had too much flex and would bow downward between the front and rear. The front and rear of the chassis would clear the 3mm rod just fine, but the center sagged so much that the tech guy couldn't get the rod under the car. Rather than raise the car (I was struggling with traction roll issues), I went back to the stock chassis and the problem went away. I have the carbon braces, but since I wasn't running the IFS, I couldn't use them.

As for the IFS suspension, I've never cared for it. I tried it last year on the F1R2 and removed it. I initially built my F1R3 with it, and after one club race I once again removed it. I'm not a touring guy, so I stick with what I'm familiar with, and the F104 front end is closer to a pan car than the IFS. Maybe it works great on asphalt, but it's always been more trouble than it's worth to me on carpet. K.I.S.S. prevails.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Serzoni,

Thanks for sharing

idbdoug

iTrader: (41)

Odd, so the Aluminum had more flex than the graphite chassis. I not sure I understand but maybe an Exotek rep or another member will explain
idbdoug

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

I'm not an engineer, but I just sat my aluminum chassis on two tires and then sat two 1s packs on top to simulate the weight of a 2s shorty and electronics, and the bow was still there (pic attached). When I put the chassis on a plate of glass it sits flat, so it's not a bent chassis. Maybe mine missed some kind of hardening process or something?

tdu verney

Interesting? Been wondering myself on the new chassis option, I asked Howard our track guru aluminum vs. carbon, "when an aluminum chassis hits and bends its tweaks the chassis and stays that way. Carbon will take a hit, chip or break."

So if you have the money, go for it?

I tend to believe the same on the IFS on carpet? Worked great on asphalt!!!

idbdoug

iTrader: (41)

I’m indecisive on the F1R3 alum or graphite chassis!!!! I will be on the new CRC dark carpet with the occasional race on parking lot asphalt track. Would I be ok with avoiding tracking rolling with the graphite chassis with exotek chassis stiffeners on the new CRC carpet???? Or will the aluminum chassis be far superior?
If I did get aluminum chassis, would my older inline graphite be good on asphalt or once again is your newer graphite chassis far superior???? Just looking for a little more input because we are installing the new CRC black carpet and I have raced the older F1R2 inline chassis on asphalt and it is very good

razor41

Great result at round 2 of the BRCA nationals (UK) this weekend. I qualified 2nd and finished 2nd in a strong field of 26 drivers with my new F1R3. My team mate Darren qualified 4th but with some incidents in the race was pushed down to 8th. The car is looking very good with limited running. I got fastest lap too pushing hard to close down the race leader.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Congrats- please share! Very promising for just having received your chassis!

Aaron has been cleaning up in the Tuning Haus series on carpet with the alloy chassis. He states he is never ever removing the alloy lol
As the outdoor season approaches I hope to be able to test the alloy chassis on med grip asphalt. I have a hunch I may be surprised by the results

Hi!
Hope you had fun at Snowbirds.
The aluminum is 2mm 7075 just like the Xray chassis. There is no hardening process. The alloy chassis is 2mm thick so there is going to be some flex. And overall, this flex is good as it keeps the car from feeling like a dead brick. The stiffer description is aimed more towards the fact that there is no 't-plate' flexy cut out like the stock F1R3 chassis. The alloy chassis is heavier than the cf thus the aim towards lower cg and reduced traction roll.

It's too bad you gave up on the IFS set. Our testers have noted that the IFS is substantially reducing traction roll on carpet- they are noting the chassis rolls more smoothly through corners (much like a touring car). What causes traction roll in many cases is the sudden lurch through a corner that is more noticeable with too firm a set up or cars that have little suspension movement. I think when you have more time you should give the IFS another shot And that way you can use the chassis stiffener plates too if you have them still.