209LikesExotek F1R
01-18-2016, 04:09 PM
#1816
A few setup weapons to combat grip roll.. 
Basically you want the car to roll on the suspension. Going harder on everything may be your initial thinking but it will make things worse. When grip is very high, the car will behave better when it leans and pitches. When it hits the limit of lean it will then grip roll but you will have more time to react to that. A harder setup will have reduced lean and the car will flip suddenly with sharp steering input.
Hope this makes sense and helps!
- Battery transverse mounted
- Widen the front and rear axel to maximum within rules (190mm?)
- Softer side springs
- Softer side damper oil
- Softer front springs
- Softer shock oil
Basically you want the car to roll on the suspension. Going harder on everything may be your initial thinking but it will make things worse. When grip is very high, the car will behave better when it leans and pitches. When it hits the limit of lean it will then grip roll but you will have more time to react to that. A harder setup will have reduced lean and the car will flip suddenly with sharp steering input.
Hope this makes sense and helps!
Hey Guys,
Just want to let you all know that I won the third round of the Tuning Haus Scale series with my F1R3 and have updated the setups sheet with what I ran yesterday and also some pictures of my car and heat sheet.
I am still trying some things out and there may be another revision or two in the coming weeks.
Hope all is well and you're enjoying the cars
Aaron
Just want to let you all know that I won the third round of the Tuning Haus Scale series with my F1R3 and have updated the setups sheet with what I ran yesterday and also some pictures of my car and heat sheet.
I am still trying some things out and there may be another revision or two in the coming weeks.
Hope all is well and you're enjoying the cars
Aaron
I can't wait for my 2016 season to start
01-18-2016, 06:38 PM
#1817
note: after every change to the front spindle spacing you WILL have to recheck the front droop and ride height! Also 1mm of change can be a huge difference on carpet
-Lowering the spindle (putting shims on the top of the spindle) puts more weight to the back of the car during a suspension cycle and will make the car steer less and will result in a more stable front end. typically I will do this for asphalt to make the car not oversteer.
-Raising the spindle (putting shims on the bottom of the spindle) puts more weight on the front end of the car during suspension cycles/body roll and will give the car more steering. mostly steering out of the apex.
-Adding shims to the top of the spindle only (ie not changing the overall spindle height) will increase the camber gain during cornering. This can give the car more steering in 180's or where the car is leaning over the most. adding camber gain will keep the main tire patch on the ground instead of the tire rolling over onto the sidewall.
I hope this helps. It's something to definitely play with as it only takes a small change to make a huge difference on track...
Aaron
01-18-2016, 08:12 PM
#1818
sure
note: after every change to the front spindle spacing you WILL have to recheck the front droop and ride height! Also 1mm of change can be a huge difference on carpet
-Lowering the spindle (putting shims on the top of the spindle) puts more weight to the back of the car during a suspension cycle and will make the car steer less and will result in a more stable front end. typically I will do this for asphalt to make the car not oversteer.
-Raising the spindle (putting shims on the bottom of the spindle) puts more weight on the front end of the car during suspension cycles/body roll and will give the car more steering. mostly steering out of the apex.
-Adding shims to the top of the spindle only (ie not changing the overall spindle height) will increase the camber gain during cornering. This can give the car more steering in 180's or where the car is leaning over the most. adding camber gain will keep the main tire patch on the ground instead of the tire rolling over onto the sidewall.
I hope this helps. It's something to definitely play with as it only takes a small change to make a huge difference on track...
Aaron
note: after every change to the front spindle spacing you WILL have to recheck the front droop and ride height! Also 1mm of change can be a huge difference on carpet
-Lowering the spindle (putting shims on the top of the spindle) puts more weight to the back of the car during a suspension cycle and will make the car steer less and will result in a more stable front end. typically I will do this for asphalt to make the car not oversteer.
-Raising the spindle (putting shims on the bottom of the spindle) puts more weight on the front end of the car during suspension cycles/body roll and will give the car more steering. mostly steering out of the apex.
-Adding shims to the top of the spindle only (ie not changing the overall spindle height) will increase the camber gain during cornering. This can give the car more steering in 180's or where the car is leaning over the most. adding camber gain will keep the main tire patch on the ground instead of the tire rolling over onto the sidewall.
I hope this helps. It's something to definitely play with as it only takes a small change to make a huge difference on track...
Aaron
idbdoug
01-19-2016, 12:10 AM
#1819
thanks Aaron and Mike! The alu chassis is a very nice option. For the first time I didn't have to worry about traction rolling the car into the boarding at the end of our straight (tight carpet track), instead it would oversteer and I would loose the rear ;-)
01-19-2016, 05:26 AM
#1821
I was just reading your post above. Just curious. When your car was "over steering" with the new Alu' chassis, did you have the battery placed inline or traverse, or do you happen to know what weight distribution front to rear your car had/has?
Thanks.
Regards
BM
01-19-2016, 06:05 AM
#1822
Hi Matthijs....
I was just reading your post above. Just curious. When your car was "over steering" with the new Alu' chassis, did you have the battery placed inline or traverse, or do you happen to know what weight distribution front to rear your car had/has?
Thanks.
Regards
BM
I was just reading your post above. Just curious. When your car was "over steering" with the new Alu' chassis, did you have the battery placed inline or traverse, or do you happen to know what weight distribution front to rear your car had/has?
Thanks.
Regards
BM
01-20-2016, 09:14 AM
#1823
I know everyone is moving on to the F1R3, but don't discount the F1R2 just yet! I got this F1R2 in a trade from a local racer who was frustrated and wanted to move on to something else. It has the IFS on it as well.
It took me three race weekends to get it sorted out, with some great help from Aaron. I had been racing my F1R successfully, usually somewhere on the podium. This weekend's race there were 9 F1s, with an assortment of Xrays, Tamiyas, Exoteks, and one Fenix Su.zuka.
TQ and 1st in F1!
Thank you, Aaron for all the help! The IFS really changes how the car feels and I'm still learning how to tune it.
Mark
It took me three race weekends to get it sorted out, with some great help from Aaron. I had been racing my F1R successfully, usually somewhere on the podium. This weekend's race there were 9 F1s, with an assortment of Xrays, Tamiyas, Exoteks, and one Fenix Su.zuka.
TQ and 1st in F1!
Thank you, Aaron for all the help! The IFS really changes how the car feels and I'm still learning how to tune it.
Mark
01-20-2016, 11:40 AM
#1824
I too want to give a big shout out to Aaron. He has been nothing but a great help to me. He's not too shabby of a driver either 
01-22-2016, 12:04 PM
#1828
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1944
15mm is the long style.
01-22-2016, 01:16 PM
#1830
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
It's the F1 Paint Lab sheet. (Although the FW16 was 1994, not 1995 
)
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7087
)http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7087