Things that I'd picked up from my E4RS2
1: the diff oils that comes with the kit is inadequate, (and is very hard to get the kit grease out for the tube)
after a day of running the car, the front diff (with the "so-called" kit 500K grease) will start to wear off!
2: I'd found some binding of the rear suspension holder with the suspension arm itself; however the rear susp. holder will eventually wear out once you run the car more often.
3: Shocks, personally that is probably not the best design of all the shocks that I'd used so far.
For me it was very hard to set the re-bounce of the shock due to its design. And don't even get there if you want to get a replacement piston
. So I'll be getting the XRAY T3 shocks set withing the coming month. (even thou it'll cost more that USD$70 to replaced all 4 shocks, spare availability and setup of the shock is MUCH better than the kit one)
4: the CF kit chassis will lose its rigidity after a few month of use;
although the chassis can be stiffen up (using more countersunk screw in the bottom deck and also mounting hols on the top deck). A thicker deck can be brought as an option...
5: spur gear options:
I'd managed to used the 48 pitch spur, but I'd to drilled a counter-sunk edge on the spur gear to get it to work. and with some gearing ratio, larger pinion will not be able to be used in the car!
For my car right now, I'm sticking to the kit spur and changing the pinions when needed.
The car needs the following items to stay competitive amongst other drivers (against their T3-2012, AR TC6.1 and photon EX)
1: either from KFactory, or from XRAY Spool, I'm using the XRAY lightweight reinforced spool for the T3 (38T), and that alone had make a huge difference
2: stabilizer stopper! the kit holder only holds the stabilizer in place, but there's plenty of horizontal play in both the front and the rear of the stabilizer. I'm using the tamiya one for the time being [TA# -53827]
3: The "Xray T3 Steel Shim For Lower Sus. Holder" will be also comes in handy, the kit car has a toe-in of -2.5 degrees, and I'd found that I'll need more rear toe-in for this car in most of the track that I'm using. adding 0.4mm will give the car -3.0 degrees rear toe-in. but one need to get a few different one to fine-tuned the car.
Stuff that I'd broken from my car so far is the shock ball joint from the rear of the car (someone took me out in the 90 sweeper), I'd replaced with the "T3 Shock Ball Joint - Long (4)" because the local distributor does not carry this part..