RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

As my driving has improved and become more consistent i am now looking at other tuning options to gain those fractions of a second increase in lap times. I run in a 10.5T spec blinky class on high speed, medium traction, asphalt track thats 285m with high speed sweepers and a tight in field. Corner entries are a little bumpy and well rubbered from 1/5 scale.

Currently my car is set up as follows:
Front and Rear Gear Diffs with grease.
Med Springs
70wt shock oils.

So i would like to know what effect changing these things around will have on the car before i head out and spend an afternoon testing. I have soft, med and hard springs, 50, 60, 70, 80, 100 shock oils as well as 1,2,3 hole pistons and 4000. 6000, 100000, 300000 diff oils in the kit as well to play with.

Thanks in advance.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

I'm still playing around with the shocks myself, but I use 3 holes and 40wt for a bumpy track with 14lb/in springs. Diffs I understand a bit more. I'd try the 300k oil in the front diff, and depending on preference, 1000-2000 in the rear. This should give you enough steering into the infield, and still pull through the sweepers. The principle is the more locked your front diff is, the more on power steering you have, as the inside wheel spins faster then the outside and drags the car inwards across the track. It does reduce your intial turn in, but I use less rear toe to counter this, and add some front toe out. I use a looser diff in the rear to keep the back of the car under control coming out of a slower corner (because of the rear toe), this is a feel thing though, and chassis dependant because every car is a bit different.

The car was still a little unbalanced on off power turn in (it wanted to spin, but only just) so I layed my rear dampers down by one hole, and that fixed it.

Hope this helps.

sosidge

There is a very good setup guide on the internet by "Elvo" - http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/

Fundamentally, of the parts you mention...

Shock springs - harder is more responsive, less ultimate grip, possibly worse over the bumps (rarely an issue in touring). Most touring cars are designed to use the same rate all round, or one rate stiffer on the front.

Damping - heavier damping will slow down the cars responses, and possible make it worse over the bumps. Damping should be matched to the springs, running one end of the car heavily sprung and lightly damped compared to the other is going to cause (or hide) problems.

Diffs - basic setting on a 4wd car is to have the front diff tighter than the rear. The rear diff is usually set quite free as long as you don't get the sense of it spinning up the inside wheel through the corners (unlikely in touring). A stiffer front diff setting will make the car understeer into the corner and through the middle, but will also make it pull more aggressively out of the corner. Like everything in car setup, it is about BALANCE.

There is no substitute for testing, and trusting your own reaction to the cars performance. And don't forget that these setup changes are meaningless if the car has not been built and maintained properly.