T*Star12
#1
T*Star12
Introduction
I have to say that I have droven and tested about
every 12 scale Car on the planet( and lerned quite a lot).
I than designed a link Car with the battery apart.
I understand now that driving a link Car in the US with hige grip
and in Europa with low grip is not the same.
I personlly feel that a t-bar has more stering and is more
consisten from run to run.
Breaking the t-bar is not a good thing, it will make it
impossible to complete the run and you will loose important
track time, and have to go back to replace the t-bar.
Next time you go out you maybe are going to be
worried about breaking it again.
The side links are working great, to proctect the t-bar.
Sow far not a crack in the t-bar, more testing
has to be done.
FAQ
The CRC GenX body shell holes will be a direct fit.
YOU can use a normal Associated t-bar but it has to be 19 mm wide.
You can run it with link or without, but the t-bar has to be there.
To run links only is not an option.
The battery cannot be moved. Since i will make a pure BL Car i need
the space and having a battery brace adds more weight to the Car.
Geting the battery out off the Car in a hard crash will be very difficult.
The weight of the Car is something i have to work on.
The most importen area here are the Chassis.
I don't like the cut outs, so i think i will do lines
about 2.4 mm or 1.6 mm thick,side by side, so you can place you
electronics or whatever you whant without big holes through which
the reciver migh fall through.
The Frontend is a mix off Associated and CRC parts.
This had to be done to complete the design.
The important thing here is that the frontend has damping.
(Take a look at the white delrin A arm under the CRC A arm)
Feel free to ask question
Alf Skaar
Norway
I have to say that I have droven and tested about
every 12 scale Car on the planet( and lerned quite a lot).
I than designed a link Car with the battery apart.
I understand now that driving a link Car in the US with hige grip
and in Europa with low grip is not the same.
I personlly feel that a t-bar has more stering and is more
consisten from run to run.
Breaking the t-bar is not a good thing, it will make it
impossible to complete the run and you will loose important
track time, and have to go back to replace the t-bar.
Next time you go out you maybe are going to be
worried about breaking it again.
The side links are working great, to proctect the t-bar.
Sow far not a crack in the t-bar, more testing
has to be done.
FAQ
The CRC GenX body shell holes will be a direct fit.
YOU can use a normal Associated t-bar but it has to be 19 mm wide.
You can run it with link or without, but the t-bar has to be there.
To run links only is not an option.
The battery cannot be moved. Since i will make a pure BL Car i need
the space and having a battery brace adds more weight to the Car.
Geting the battery out off the Car in a hard crash will be very difficult.
The weight of the Car is something i have to work on.
The most importen area here are the Chassis.
I don't like the cut outs, so i think i will do lines
about 2.4 mm or 1.6 mm thick,side by side, so you can place you
electronics or whatever you whant without big holes through which
the reciver migh fall through.
The Frontend is a mix off Associated and CRC parts.
This had to be done to complete the design.
The important thing here is that the frontend has damping.
(Take a look at the white delrin A arm under the CRC A arm)
Feel free to ask question
Alf Skaar
Norway
Last edited by alf.skaar; 05-29-2009 at 03:18 PM.
#2
GREAT JOB !
#3
Thank-you
It may look easily to build a 12 scale car but it is not, and i don't have numbers
off how many prototypes i have cut in paper to make sure it all are going to
fit and noting hiting somthing.
I'm very happy with the design and the performance.
Alf
It may look easily to build a 12 scale car but it is not, and i don't have numbers
off how many prototypes i have cut in paper to make sure it all are going to
fit and noting hiting somthing.
I'm very happy with the design and the performance.
Alf
Last edited by alf.skaar; 10-18-2007 at 03:48 AM.
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Ingenious as only a 1/12th scaler could get there Alf. Admire the craftsmanship and the photography; ultra clear pix make understanding the mechanical aspects so much easier. You've got me baffled on what the Durlin parts are doing under the front arms !!
Keep us posted and keep up the good work, you deserve the Nobel prize for 1/12th scale design here.
Jacko
Keep us posted and keep up the good work, you deserve the Nobel prize for 1/12th scale design here.
Jacko
#6
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
If that delrin piece had a cup hollowed out in it where the lower end of the kingpin and spring sit it could be filled with some sort of damper fluid to dampen the kingpin movement. We sometimes put heavy syrup on the kingpin itself, but this tends to attract dust and fuzz, and doesn't stay in place for long. If that delrin lower piece acted as a reservoir for the fluid it would both keep dirt out and keep the fluid from leaving... anyways, that's just me speculating.
Alf, VERY nice work there. Can I ask what sort of mill you are using? I am about to purchase a cnc machine myself to cut carbon parts and I'm having difficulty deciding on which machine to buy.
Alf, VERY nice work there. Can I ask what sort of mill you are using? I am about to purchase a cnc machine myself to cut carbon parts and I'm having difficulty deciding on which machine to buy.
#7
Alf, can you PM me. Thanks.
#8
Victor Vector
Trips
GreaseMonkey
Thanks for the nice words
:-)
Yes you are all correct is is damping :-)
Trips
All the carbon - the x in the rear(it is stock GenX),
and the battery center and cable holder is done by Doug
Powell from Powell Racing Components and he use a Tag mill.
And he don't have any thing to do about "Taig Tools" www.taigtools.com
The front-end damping plate under the CRC A arm is done on a sherline
a 2000 mill as is the t-bar and the fiber glass parts in the front by me, and i'm working on making the chassis lighter so i will do cutout in the carbon fiber soon, or do a new chassis.
Don't now if you have see it but the car have a spur protection to.
Just got back from the track have be testing :-)
what ever i did i couldn't break the t-bar, i did break a CRC front rim
a Associated steering block, and bent the screw that hold the front-end, sow i now
i hit that wall hard
Alf :-)
andrewdoherty
Thanks for correcting me
Alf :-)
Trips
GreaseMonkey
Thanks for the nice words
:-)
Yes you are all correct is is damping :-)
Trips
All the carbon - the x in the rear(it is stock GenX),
and the battery center and cable holder is done by Doug
Powell from Powell Racing Components and he use a Tag mill.
And he don't have any thing to do about "Taig Tools" www.taigtools.com
The front-end damping plate under the CRC A arm is done on a sherline
a 2000 mill as is the t-bar and the fiber glass parts in the front by me, and i'm working on making the chassis lighter so i will do cutout in the carbon fiber soon, or do a new chassis.
Don't now if you have see it but the car have a spur protection to.
Just got back from the track have be testing :-)
what ever i did i couldn't break the t-bar, i did break a CRC front rim
a Associated steering block, and bent the screw that hold the front-end, sow i now
i hit that wall hard
Alf :-)
andrewdoherty
Thanks for correcting me
Alf :-)
Last edited by alf.skaar; 10-25-2007 at 11:59 AM.
#10
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Alf,
Thanks for the answer. I am considering a Taig CNC mill but I was also looking at a small cnc router from ImService. Here's a link to the router:
http://www.imwsrv.com
I thought the router might be a better choice for carbon than the Taig, but I have no experience with machining carbon so I don't want to buy the wrong machine...
When you say Doug, are you referring to Doug Powell?
Thanks again,
David
Thanks for the answer. I am considering a Taig CNC mill but I was also looking at a small cnc router from ImService. Here's a link to the router:
http://www.imwsrv.com
I thought the router might be a better choice for carbon than the Taig, but I have no experience with machining carbon so I don't want to buy the wrong machine...
When you say Doug, are you referring to Doug Powell?
Thanks again,
David
#13
Trips
Get a Taig or a sherline.
if you one day are getting a lath you can drop the motor from the sherline mill on to the lathe
I did look at that router to but all the extra things you can do with a mill did it for me
if you have more question about the CNC i think you have to call me, i'm happy to help
you but like to keep this about car design and getting the best out off 12 scale
Yes Doug Powell
protc3, Jason
Thanks i think you now this is my second car and only a limited number off
people have seen my first car design, and since i was not happy with the
performance off if i never show any picture off it on the net.
Did you get the video i sent you ?
Did you try the thing we discuss the last time i talk to you ?
yesterday i practice with no less than three DB12R, this cars are having children over
here :-) (many DB12R)
Nice work Jason the car looks great! and looking at the center and the side
ball what i nice work you have done with that, and the delrin parts to
looks great!
Alf
Get a Taig or a sherline.
if you one day are getting a lath you can drop the motor from the sherline mill on to the lathe
I did look at that router to but all the extra things you can do with a mill did it for me
if you have more question about the CNC i think you have to call me, i'm happy to help
you but like to keep this about car design and getting the best out off 12 scale
Yes Doug Powell
protc3, Jason
Thanks i think you now this is my second car and only a limited number off
people have seen my first car design, and since i was not happy with the
performance off if i never show any picture off it on the net.
Did you get the video i sent you ?
Did you try the thing we discuss the last time i talk to you ?
yesterday i practice with no less than three DB12R, this cars are having children over
here :-) (many DB12R)
Nice work Jason the car looks great! and looking at the center and the side
ball what i nice work you have done with that, and the delrin parts to
looks great!
Alf
#14
I 'm trying to find other ways to make the chassis lighter and not do cut through the chassis
This are the bottom off the chassis, what do you think ?
Alf :-)
This are the bottom off the chassis, what do you think ?
Alf :-)
#15
Could you not just use some smaller cut-outs, as opposed to machining out that much of the surface of the chassis? I would think that thinning your chassis out that much might cause some extra flex that might cause the car to feel inconsistant at times.
Your car looks awesome, though! I actually like the solid chassis, myself. How much weight are you trying to shave off?
Your car looks awesome, though! I actually like the solid chassis, myself. How much weight are you trying to shave off?