hannhann00

Hello,,

I bought some RC gear, although not knowing if it all works, it was pretty much a cheap all-in grab it all deal, with some old cars- TA05/ TF-05 and Xray T2 009 (which has some rust on the metal parts), I was only planning to burn around the front street with my mates for a laugh, so didn't care much. However after playing at the track once and seeing all the nice new gear/ cars everyone has, i'm a little hooked. So now I want to do some local level racing for fun, and get some newer/ better gear (but ideally use what i have to not spend too much)... The track here is small and tight and rubber tire on asphalt.


(I assume all the items I picked-up are pretty old and outdated but any tips would be a huge help)

RX/ TX
- I picked up a Sanwa M11 RX with a Spectrum SM1001 (i assume from around 2008). Is this good enough for racing?


ESC
- It also came with a Novak GTB ESC and a Xerun 5.5T motor. At the moment the ESC doesn't seem to work (although the guy said it would and dis last time he used it). When i flick the on/off switch it lights up for a moment (and the fan spins), then stops right away within an instant.

- Do you think this is likely a switch issue if it's been sitting idle for a few years? Do i need to replace it with a Novak switch, or can i use any switch that fits? Can i just solder the wires together so it's permanently on to save me trying to find a switch)?

- Is the Novak GTB ESC considered a decent/ high-end ESC and worth using and trying to fix? Is it good enough for racing (17.5 & 21.5)?

- If i want to buy another ESC what is a good ESC (that ideally isn't too expensive). Although i want to a few races just for fun, i don't plan on going all out like most of the guys at the track. The main motor classes here is 17.5T for TC and 21.5T for F1 (small track)... But i'd also like to run my 5.5 motor if i go somewhere more open so ideally want a ESC that can handle it all.


Motors
- Is there a big performance difference between motors/ brands for motors of the same Turn? I need to buy a 17.5T and a 21.5 for the classes they run here. What is a competitive but cost friendly motor?


Chassis
Would anyone think an Xray T2 009 is worth buying new parts for? The springs, drive shafts, all screws, all steering arms and any other metal parts have light surface rust. However the car still handles WAY better than the TA05 and the TF-05.

I'm thinking instead of fixing the T2, I could get a better & newer car used for cheap. For example there's an ARC R10 2015 roller going in my neighbourhood for $140 bucks and it's in perfect condition. Your thoughts? Fix the Xray T2 or just save the hassle and get the R10? *there's okay parts support for ARC in my area.

I also want to buy an F1 car. Is the Xray X1 well ahead of the likes of a F104proV2 and TRF101/02 and a F104 with the Exotek kit?

Servo
I want to buy 2 servo's (one for each car). What is a decent good servo for racing? Can i run the same type of low profile servo for both cars?

Lipo's
- does the X1 ONLY take shorty batteries? i thought it would be most easy if i just bought 4 of the same battery to rotate between my cars if possible rather than having to go 2 shorty and 2 normal size batteries.

- what is the best spec lipo's to get- 6000+mah?/ 45C-60C?



Thanks for any input at all and any advice you can give

Zerodefect

If the M11 with Spektrum module works, run it. I won't run Spektrum anything anymore. When you do invest in a new radio the M11x (used) or M12 new, is the way to go. KO Propo and Futaba have decent radios as well.

The Novak ESC likely needs setup. Download the instructions on how to reset it. Make sure that reciever is bound to the radio and moves servos ok.

Stick with the old Xray T2. Surface rust on screws is no big deal. Rust on hinge pins and shock shafts polishes right off. Don't replace parts just because they aren'y pretty. Run the car hard until you start beating the slow guys, then buy a new car.

The Xray F1 is fine if you add softer silver springs, front and side. Shorty pack only. Get 1 battery per car, don't rotate batteries.

I'm running SMC Esc's, batteries, and a few Fantom batteries.

hannhann00

Hi ZeroD,

Many thanks for your info man, i appreciate it.

- So the Novak GTB (if i can get it working) is a reasonable ESC worth using in the application i want (17.5 & 21.5 racing)?

- Noted on the Xray T2 rust. The car seems to work fine so i think your idea is solid (and i may run a WTB- T2 parts thread and see if i can pick up any parts for it).

- When you say- only one battery, do you mean only one battery TYPE per car (i.e. use the same type of battery each time so the set-up is not affected)? Or do you not even run different batteries of the same type? If so why?

Zerodefect

I only have one battery for each car I own. I never even remove batteries, I charge while they're in the car. I don't even unplug the cars, I use alligator clips on the 4mm internal plug/posts. As they day goes on, one battery will get faster and faster the more it's used and recharged.

I used to keep spare batteries, but only ended up with a pile of obsolete batteries. Now I only have a spare battery for traveling to big events incase I nuke a battery. Club racing, if I lose a battery, I'm done with that class for the day. I don't carry many spare parts either anymore to club races. No point in club racing, and expensive to keep spares of everything. I have basic parts and screws to save a race day, but not major parts, especially for tougher cars like Xrays.

GTB is fine, if it works. Run it 'till it catches on fire.

hannhann00

okay thanks,,, is this common/ recommended across the board?

rescue119

iTrader: (1)

When u do get a new esc go with hobby wing esc. Great value for he price. And is your ta05 a version 2? With the front shocks laying down? If so check out that thread. It can be competitive with a good setup for a tub chassis.

niznai

The T2 009 is a solid car even by today's standards. Yeah, not the latest and greatest, but enough to give anyone a run for their money. Xray is best for interchangeability of parts across generations of cars as well so no point really in buying another s/h car from a different manufacturer. You might as well buy a newer s/h Xray if you want to spec up. For 140$ you might be able to buy a well used current Xray (2016) because the 2017 model has just come out.

To fix the Xray you can buy bits and pieces you'll be able to keep later when you upgrade.

And why would you buy another car when you already have one? Do you know the second car won't have anything to fix, for instance?

You sound a bit contradictory.

If you don't want to sped too much, why do you want to buy so many things?

Run the TC car you have and see then if you still want an F1 and so on.

And remember you'll need a charger aside from those batteries.

More cars also means more batteries and more chargers (or a more sophisticated one).

I would make a decision on what I want to keep and flog off what I don't to finance bits and bobs to set myself up.

hannhann00

Hey yeah that is all solid advice actually. I didn't want to spend loads (as in new everything) but did want to have decent gear i can run with. The f1 was not on my radar but i saw one and now want it badly (damn these rc cars are addictive). But your advice is sound i'll try be more reasonable

hannhann00

hi yeah my car has the shocks laying down. The only reason i think it is a TA05, is because it looks similar to TA05 pics i've seen with the layout down front shocks.. Is there any way to be sure and check what model it is exactly?

TQ!