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Old 01-04-2014, 09:31 PM   #331
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I've done well racing the nitro version Dm1 and electric GTP2e. I'm going to run an electric Dm1 this year to confirm nitro set up works with the electric car and reduce parts.

GTP2e has proven quick and reliable. Running SNR shock towers. Great buy in stock form, and I've already hit 70mph with my race set up. Tires and body are important going for speed runs. Not sure you want the lighter carbon fiber chassis, but longer wheel base will help.

I'd sell you my GTP2e roller for $150 shipped, no body or electronics with a set of tires.
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:56 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
GTP2e has proven quick and reliable. Running SNR shock towers. Great buy in stock form, and I've already hit 70mph with my race set up. Tires and body are important going for speed runs. Not sure you want the lighter carbon fiber chassis, but longer wheel base will help.

I'd sell you my GTP2e roller for $150 shipped, no body or electronics with a set of tires.
You do realise I'm in Australia regarding that price you provided?
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:25 PM   #333
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Speed runs and general car park driving (I already have a RC8.2e and SC8e for bashing).

I'm not sure if the GTP2e will be sufficient and can then use the cash saved to upgrade the stock chassis to a CF chassis.
When you set a car up for speed runs, it's pretty hard to drive it around for any period of time without smoking the electronics.

That being said, my opinion is that the GTP-2e(or even better the OFNA Late Model) is the best for speed runs, and there would be no need to put a carbon fiber chassis on it. Especially considering that a crash at 70+ mph would destroy a carbon fiber chassis. The main reason I would choose the GTP-2e( or Late Model) is because of the better designed gearboxes, the availability of option parts and the price. Also, the motor mount can be modded easily to accept a 1:1 gearing, and there's more room for larger 82mm+ motors. Lastly, the Late Model has both fron and rear pivot ball suspension, which can be tightened to remove the play, and bring the rear toe alignment closer to 0 degrees.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:39 PM   #334
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I'm currently tossing up between the DM-1 or Ultra GTP2e... can anyone suggest which one to grab and why?

Also, I noticed a popular upgrade is to use the SNR carbon chassis...are these longer (360mm) and then give the option of using the Kyosho bodies?
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


The Warrior body fits both 325mm & 360mm bodies too.
Good luck & have fun.
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:28 AM   #335
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Hey jspeed, were both of the bodies reinforced inside? that is a big difference in speed. The warrior body works really well.
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:38 AM   #336
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Hey jspeed, were both of the bodies reinforced inside? that is a big difference in speed. The warrior body works really well.
According to John, yes they both are. Here's another one of his videos that goes into pretty good details about it. All the best!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:05 AM   #337
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You do realise I'm in Australia regarding that price you provided?
Well I did over look that ....
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:12 AM   #338
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Originally Posted by reracer View Post
When you set a car up for speed runs, it's pretty hard to drive it around for any period of time without smoking the electronics.

That being said, my opinion is that the GTP-2e(or even better the OFNA Late Model) is the best for speed runs, and there would be no need to put a carbon fiber chassis on it. Especially considering that a crash at 70+ mph would destroy a carbon fiber chassis. The main reason I would choose the GTP-2e( or Late Model) is because of the better designed gearboxes, the availability of option parts and the price. Also, the motor mount can be modded easily to accept a 1:1 gearing, and there's more room for larger 82mm+ motors. Lastly, the Late Model has both fron and rear pivot ball suspension, which can be tightened to remove the play, and bring the rear toe alignment closer to 0 degrees.
I would agree on the gear boxes, they are tuff. The oval car has better shock mount but you will need to replace the offset hubs on the right side, but this is easy. Use the standard hubs on the front, put +2mm or +1mm for better rear grip. You can also purchase the upgrade kit for the pivot ball rear.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:44 PM   #339
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I would agree on the gear boxes, they are tuff. The oval car has better shock mount but you will need to replace the offset hubs on the right side, but this is easy. Use the standard hubs on the front, put +2mm or +1mm for better rear grip. You can also purchase the upgrade kit for the pivot ball rear.
The Late Model comes with the standard hubs all the way around, and the optional +15mm hubs in a package in the box.

Here's another little known fact, the center spool kit the sell for the GTP-2e/Late Model, also works in the front or rear diff.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:48 AM   #340
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Hello guys. From today I'm proud owner of DM1 Electric. Got it used, but in perfect condition. I have few questions. I have a bags with new side guards, but dont have holes on the chassis. Is it possible to mount them there, or they are only for DM1 Pro?
I have aluminum center spool mount, but the previous owner used the plastic one. Dont know why, but I think its better and will change it.
I have several pinions and spoors. Will see which combination is better for my need with xerun 4274 2000kv motor. Never ever seen sofar a 40t pinion.
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:45 PM   #341
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Originally Posted by Wish_Mastera View Post
Hello guys. From today I'm proud owner of DM1 Electric. Got it used, but in perfect condition. I have few questions. I have a bags with new side guards, but dont have holes on the chassis. Is it possible to mount them there, or they are only for DM1 Pro?
I have aluminum center spool mount, but the previous owner used the plastic one. Dont know why, but I think its better and will change it.
I have several pinions and spoors. Will see which combination is better for my need with xerun 4274 2000kv motor. Never ever seen sofar a 40t pinion.
They are for the Dm-One 1/7th scale. Wheel base is 380mm, so it would take modifying the sides plus drilling the chassis.

Plastic is lighter so spools up faster, but you are correct the aluminum is stronger. Not sure you can get a 40t pinion to fit unless you get a small spur.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:32 PM   #342
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I have pinion 30t, 35t and 40t. I can use mod1 pinions from my other models if I need. Got 13t and 15t as well. About spur... I have 2 very smal, 25t and 30t and one big plastic - maybe is the stock one. I will go on 4 or 5 cells with 2000kv motor, but woundering is the ballance okay with just one battery ot one side? A friend of mine got dm1 pro el conversion and use battery try on left and right side protector. The final result is just perfect. Great ballance and very easy to drive. i have another question... What about the springs you use? I have stock red an optional white for front. Another friend with dm1 electric use yellow springs and told me to change the red one asap. any comments on that? I'm confused...
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:26 AM   #343
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I have pinion 30t, 35t and 40t. I can use mod1 pinions from my other models if I need. Got 13t and 15t as well. About spur... I have 2 very smal, 25t and 30t and one big plastic - maybe is the stock one. I will go on 4 or 5 cells with 2000kv motor, but woundering is the ballance okay with just one battery ot one side? A friend of mine got dm1 pro el conversion and use battery try on left and right side protector. The final result is just perfect. Great ballance and very easy to drive. i have another question... What about the springs you use? I have stock red an optional white for front. Another friend with dm1 electric use yellow springs and told me to change the red one asap. any comments on that? I'm confused...
The big pinions (30t, 35t, 40t) and the small spurs (25t, 30t) are for speed runs, not for racing. Use the large plastic spur, which is probably the stock 49t, and the 13t pinion to start out with. That should give you a top speed of around 33mph, which is a good place to start.

The balance should be fine with the battery only on one side, but you can add a little weight where needed to make it perfect. It all depends on the weight of the other components on the car.

The springs will be trial and error. They're easy to swap at the track, so try both.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:56 PM   #344
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Hey guys what are good tires for the dm1? Will be only using it for parking lot races. Are the stock tires any good?
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:06 AM   #345
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Hey guys what are good tires for the dm1? Will be only using it for parking lot races. Are the stock tires any good?
I like using GRP tires because they are belted and cheap. For sure they are way better than and of the stock tires. Bruckner Hobbies usually have good prices and free shipping if you speed $50 or more. I am not sure of the condition of your parking lot track but I usually like using: GRP 1:8 RALLY - B Belted Soft


http://brucknerhobbies.com/catalog/i...cPath=22_23_27
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