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Old 08-17-2013, 06:38 AM   #316
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Hey guys. I'm just getting into the 1/8 on-road scene with a 1/7 DM1. Car seems really well put together. I'm currently building a plexiglass battery tray as I haven't been able to find one that might even remotely fit this chassis. I'll prob build a second version using CF, but the plexi's all I had for now. Looks like the battery is floating on the chassis with this stuff.

Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.

Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:42 AM   #317
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Originally Posted by DVUS HELI View Post
Hey guys. I'm just getting into the 1/8 on-road scene with a 1/7 DM1. Car seems really well put together. I'm currently building a plexiglass battery tray as I haven't been able to find one that might even remotely fit this chassis. I'll prob build a second version using CF, but the plexi's all I had for now. Looks like the battery is floating on the chassis with this stuff.

Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.

Thanks in advance guys.
I race the nitro 1/8 scale version, so familar with the suspension.

Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.

If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.

Mark
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #318
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I race the nitro 1/8 scale version, so familar with the suspension.

Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.

If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.

Mark
So your saying he could convert the front suspension to stand up shocks? if so i'd like to know how. I'm not liking that i cant get the ride hight to come up more on mine the chassis slaps the ground a lot even after changing springs and oil. can you pm me the parts i would need? please ..and thanks
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:43 AM   #319
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So your saying he could convert the front suspension to stand up shocks? if so i'd like to know how. I'm not liking that i cant get the ride hight to come up more on mine the chassis slaps the ground a lot even after changing springs and oil. can you pm me the parts i would need? please ..and thanks
On my DM-1 nitro car I run 10mm in the front. You could get 12/13 with the short shocks and springs. I'll take a picture of the front end and post.

Parts would be carbon shock tower, short DM-1 Spec nitro shocks and springs (black, red, white, yellow). You can get all the OFNA parts from IGT hobbies, shock towers from Darksidems.com, and I have a larger foam bumper out of better foam. It is a little thinner than the stock one, but it really works.

Mark
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:49 AM   #320
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Here is a picture of my DM-1 Nitro.
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Ofna DM-1 Spec Electric 1/8 Gt OnRoad-front-end-.jpg  
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:31 AM   #321
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Here is a picture of my DM-1 Nitro.
wow looks good.. thanks for the info. i'm going to order and thanks for the pic post also
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:15 PM   #322
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question, thinking bout picking this car up today and i'm wondering if you can put dual 3s traxxas batteries on this big boy.

I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.

there is the will is there a way?
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:48 PM   #323
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Originally Posted by BC2G View Post
question, thinking bout picking this car up today and i'm wondering if you can put dual 3s traxxas batteries on this big boy.

I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.

there is the will is there a way?
i am setting mine up for that 100 mark and what ive had to do was cut the back out of the battery tray to allow them to fit. i did one high speed run where the car flipped but the batteries stayed in place. just have to strap them down tightly. i used a dremel to cut it and shave it smooth. im using 2 3s 65 - 130c nanotech batteries from hobby king
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:07 PM   #324
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The Ipanema Top Speed Club contest starts September 1st.

We’re looking to give back to the Top Speed R/C community for your incredible accomplishments.
Feel free to visit our website for full event rules, how to enter and win.

Good luck everyone and thank you all very much!
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #325
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Thanks Grenade. I don't have it running yet. Just got my motor mount from RC Monster, perfect fit and looks great! Got the single speed conversion too, but I need the dm1 spec e shaft for it to work I think. Thanks Mike, good guy there at RC Monster. Great customer service.

I'll play with the laydown suspension for a bit, if I don't like it, then maybe I'll switch over.

Is anyone out there racing these things and not just doing speed runs? I'd like a few setup tips on gearing for the 2spd and single speed. Track is kinda tight with a short straight and I'm thinking to use a Tekin 1700kV motor, more torque for the additional weight of the 1/7, with an RX8 on 6S. Yes, the occasional speed run will happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I race the nitro 1/8 scale version, so familar with the suspension.

Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.

If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.

Mark
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:15 AM   #326
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Here is a picture of my DM-1 Nitro.
Thanks for the info, here's a pic of mine updated with stand up shock tower, but still have some slop in the front tie rods, know of any replacement parts that can take some of that out? let me know

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Old 12-28-2013, 08:08 PM   #327
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Default dm 1 gear holder

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Steve i will be the first to buy your chassis for the e! Please design it to allow the motor mount to slide further out to allow for 25t or higher i big you lol. I already moded the gear holder for the 45 spur. I think the 2speed gear holder will solve the problem. But even with the smaller spur i had to cut into the chassis to allow the mount to slide over more. Now its working, cantt see why ofna didn't do that from the factory. Please let me know when you have the chassis i am ready to buy. Thanks Steve!
how did you mod the gear holder? now that i know the 45t didnt fit i know the 44t one i ordered wont fit
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:43 AM   #328
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I'm currently tossing up between the DM-1 or Ultra GTP2e... can anyone suggest which one to grab and why?

Also, I noticed a popular upgrade is to use the SNR carbon chassis...are these longer (360mm) and then give the option of using the Kyosho bodies?
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:34 AM   #329
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Originally Posted by sidehow77 View Post
I'm currently tossing up between the DM-1 or Ultra GTP2e... can anyone suggest which one to grab and why?

Also, I noticed a popular upgrade is to use the SNR carbon chassis...are these longer (360mm) and then give the option of using the Kyosho bodies?
What are you going to do with it? Race, speed runs or bash?
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:01 PM   #330
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What are you going to do with it? Race, speed runs or bash?
Speed runs and general car park driving (I already have a RC8.2e and SC8e for bashing).

I'm not sure if the GTP2e will be sufficient and can then use the cash saved to upgrade the stock chassis to a CF chassis.
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