SLAPMASTER - 1/12th MS2.2
#408
Brian,
Let me give you a hand.
This is direct from the MS2.2 instruction manual.
MS2.2 parts list
Dom
Let me give you a hand.
This is direct from the MS2.2 instruction manual.
MS2.2 parts list
Dom
#410
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Dom saves the day! Thanks. I have been at the gas track today... which rained out, season's done. Bummer. Headed back to the carpet track which is where my shop is at. We are laying down new carpet and the sub floor needed some filling. After my knees and back were shot, then I headed up to the shop to work on my upper mold for the 2.3. At this point, I feel that I am somewhere around 48 to 72 hours away from making the first 2.3. IF I like what I see, then I will starting filling the back orders. I am pretty excited to see that Rain City is getting the latest Ozite laid as soon as tomorrow (Monday). Everyone has been working so hard the past three days. We are going to have a national caliber carpet track as soon as Wed. Rain City is having their 6th annual Slugfest the end of this month and I am sure that the house will be packed. Can anyone guess what the popular 12th scale car is?
As far as the CRC shorties are concerned, my shop and computer are not remotely close to each other or I would measure them up for you. I know that if you use standard CRC tubes, that you have to shorten the ball cups a little. But the pistons and tubes should be fine the way they are. I like to use two 12th scale front springs inside the tubes to stiffen up the torsonal stiffness of the t-bar. It works really good for adding/subtracting steering. Since these front springs are about .250 long, two of them would be .500 combined. So you would need .500 of space at the bottom of the tubes when everything is in possition. Hope that helps.
Brian
As far as the CRC shorties are concerned, my shop and computer are not remotely close to each other or I would measure them up for you. I know that if you use standard CRC tubes, that you have to shorten the ball cups a little. But the pistons and tubes should be fine the way they are. I like to use two 12th scale front springs inside the tubes to stiffen up the torsonal stiffness of the t-bar. It works really good for adding/subtracting steering. Since these front springs are about .250 long, two of them would be .500 combined. So you would need .500 of space at the bottom of the tubes when everything is in possition. Hope that helps.
Brian
#411
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Dom saves the day! Thanks. I have been at the gas track today... which rained out, season's done. Bummer.
Hey Brian, we raced today as well... we got to run.... not sure if that was a good thing for me.......
In short....
Blew a JP in which I spent $150 on new piston/sleeve last week!!! Then TQ'ed with the trusty regional motor.... WELL, 5 min into the main, broke the crank!!! On top of that, my throttle servo crapped early in the morning.
A $300 day for me!
The bright side is not more gas race until next year!
Dom
#413
How much are the thrust bearing kits currently going for?