Tweak findings..
10-09-2011, 11:02 AM
#1
Tweak findings..
I am just getting seriously into a new calendar of racing for next year hopefully and just a quick question or so....
I finally bought a complete hudy set up station with a tweak station too.... It has seriously showed me how I have been setting up my cars were a joke.
So how many times with a tweak station do you check for the first setup the night before racing?? Do you check tweak between every race wether you had any hit or any big hit or not??
I know I had a perfect car the other day but then undone the top deck to re assemble the bellcrank and servo saver on my tc6 and then the next race was terrible...
So when is tweak checked by all the serious racers out there cause besides tires then shocks then the diffs with the bearings all running smooth,
whats everyones way from start to finish doing setup after detailing your car and re assembling it???
Cheers
Fordy
PS Hudy for setup gear I had to get as it has proven to me I had all the cheaper stuff and nothing comes even close...
I finally bought a complete hudy set up station with a tweak station too.... It has seriously showed me how I have been setting up my cars were a joke.
So how many times with a tweak station do you check for the first setup the night before racing?? Do you check tweak between every race wether you had any hit or any big hit or not??
I know I had a perfect car the other day but then undone the top deck to re assemble the bellcrank and servo saver on my tc6 and then the next race was terrible...
So when is tweak checked by all the serious racers out there cause besides tires then shocks then the diffs with the bearings all running smooth,
whats everyones way from start to finish doing setup after detailing your car and re assembling it???
Cheers
Fordy
PS Hudy for setup gear I had to get as it has proven to me I had all the cheaper stuff and nothing comes even close...
10-09-2011, 11:41 AM
#2
I normally check my tweak when I notice my car starts to handling differently or a big hit and after each rebuild.
Last edited by Bubblehead; 10-09-2011 at 04:50 PM.
10-09-2011, 04:16 PM
#3
Tech Master
Yup, only check when I rebuild. Or if the car starts to handle funny and it's nothing obvious.
To be honest I haven't had any notisable issues with tweak with any of the last few tc's I have had.
To be honest I haven't had any notisable issues with tweak with any of the last few tc's I have had.
Last edited by Qatmix; 10-10-2011 at 08:02 AM.
10-09-2011, 04:52 PM
#4
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Granted, I am a 1/12th driver, so this routine is shaped for that.
After I make a run, this is pretty much the routine I follow:
(This is for having a run with no hits or taps. Work time approx: 30min)
#1 Clean my tires with motor spray, I do this first to allow the tires to dry out as much as possible from the motor spray.
#2 While the battery is still in the car, I check ride height and camber. Even without taking a hit, the ride height can change.
#3 Check diff tension.
#4 Check front springs to make sure both kingpins have NOT moved. Double check the tightness of the kingpin set screws.
#5 Disconnect shock and make sure the rear pod moves freely with zero binding or stickyness.
#6 Check link tubes for smooth operation and not sticking. Dampner tube lube can dry out should be changed frequently.
#7 Juice up the tires.
(This is for having a run with hits and or taps, does not matter the severity of the impact as even minor taps change the setup.)
#1 Same as above. Unless my car is broken and cannot repair it to continue racing. If tires are chunked, I replace them.
#2 Check EVERY bearing in the car and replace as needed.
#3 Remove motor and rear axle from pod plate and re-setup the football pivot. Then reassemble.
#4 While the rear axle is out, I rebuild the diff and break it in.
#5 While the front wheels are removed I check the upper pivot balls to make sure they didn't bend. Check the movement of the front suspension to ensure there is no binding and is moving freely. If you have bent kingpins, this will show it, you will see binding.
#6 Double check kingpin length.
#7 Reassemble the car with fresh tires, check/set ride height and then check the tweak.
#8 Juice the tires.
I have more things I do depending on frequency of racing, but this is pretty close to what I do on race/practice days. Think of it this way, even if you double check your tweak/setup after EVERY run...even if there were no hits or taps...will help you in being confident your car is properly set up when you run it. Doesn't take much time at all to verify the setup on all aspects of your car. This week at the IIC I pretty much tore down and rebuilt my car after every run, crash or not.
I am sure I have forgotten a few things that others will straighten out....consider me still lagged from the week of racing and the flight lol!
Neil H.
After I make a run, this is pretty much the routine I follow:
(This is for having a run with no hits or taps. Work time approx: 30min)
#1 Clean my tires with motor spray, I do this first to allow the tires to dry out as much as possible from the motor spray.
#2 While the battery is still in the car, I check ride height and camber. Even without taking a hit, the ride height can change.
#3 Check diff tension.
#4 Check front springs to make sure both kingpins have NOT moved. Double check the tightness of the kingpin set screws.
#5 Disconnect shock and make sure the rear pod moves freely with zero binding or stickyness.
#6 Check link tubes for smooth operation and not sticking. Dampner tube lube can dry out should be changed frequently.
#7 Juice up the tires.
(This is for having a run with hits and or taps, does not matter the severity of the impact as even minor taps change the setup.)
#1 Same as above. Unless my car is broken and cannot repair it to continue racing. If tires are chunked, I replace them.
#2 Check EVERY bearing in the car and replace as needed.
#3 Remove motor and rear axle from pod plate and re-setup the football pivot. Then reassemble.
#4 While the rear axle is out, I rebuild the diff and break it in.
#5 While the front wheels are removed I check the upper pivot balls to make sure they didn't bend. Check the movement of the front suspension to ensure there is no binding and is moving freely. If you have bent kingpins, this will show it, you will see binding.
#6 Double check kingpin length.
#7 Reassemble the car with fresh tires, check/set ride height and then check the tweak.
#8 Juice the tires.
I have more things I do depending on frequency of racing, but this is pretty close to what I do on race/practice days. Think of it this way, even if you double check your tweak/setup after EVERY run...even if there were no hits or taps...will help you in being confident your car is properly set up when you run it. Doesn't take much time at all to verify the setup on all aspects of your car. This week at the IIC I pretty much tore down and rebuilt my car after every run, crash or not.
I am sure I have forgotten a few things that others will straighten out....consider me still lagged from the week of racing and the flight lol!
Neil H.
10-09-2011, 08:08 PM
#5
Thanks very much guys.......
Very cool and I really do appreciate your help as that all makes perfect sense in every response...
I understand the concept believe me but tweak and that sort of thing when I was racing onroad 15 years ago it was abit different... we had droop screws but thought they were ride hide screws in my old hpi rs4 pro2 lol....
Didnt understand droop tweak or anything. It was using what we call droop screws now to set ride height and tighten springs for spring tension and the list goes on...
We always blamed the car for not steering left and right equally cause of a bad radio or glitch or the servo was stuffed lol...
Anyhow
Cheers guys
Fordy
Very cool and I really do appreciate your help as that all makes perfect sense in every response...
I understand the concept believe me but tweak and that sort of thing when I was racing onroad 15 years ago it was abit different... we had droop screws but thought they were ride hide screws in my old hpi rs4 pro2 lol....
Didnt understand droop tweak or anything. It was using what we call droop screws now to set ride height and tighten springs for spring tension and the list goes on...
We always blamed the car for not steering left and right equally cause of a bad radio or glitch or the servo was stuffed lol...
Anyhow
Cheers guys
Fordy
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