I have a Mi1 with alloy diff housings, alloy layshaft, alloy rear arm mounts, alloy spur adapter and layshaft pulley, CNC rear differential and ceramic bearings, Mod belts, CF: Topdeck, Chassis, and shock towers, titanium rear turnbuckles and rear arm pins, and last but not least, a hex conversion.
Now I upgraded from the plastic and S1 components for a few reasons. Firstly the CF chassis because I crashed the car and broke it where the rear arms mount, this also bent the arm pins, and rear turnbuckle. So I figured I'd go for the stronger option to prevent it in the future, the topdeck and shock towers i did so it would all match... lol.
The alloy mounts, I did because the plastic ones were hard to remove screws from, so taking the top deck off and getting to the diffs took ages, the alloy sped that up heaps. The screws were changed for 2 reasons. 1 the alloy gear came with philips heads, and 2 i dont like torx and its hard to get good drivers for it.
The cnc rear diff because I kept getting rocks stuck in the diff underneath and I thought it would be tougher, but it wasnt. Ceramic balls because I lost one of the normal ones.. so i thought what the hell...
Now i haven't weighed it, but I race in 17.5 boosted with it, and I definitely have to run a higher fdr then the other tekin rs based TC6, and way higher then the hobbywing based TC6/T3/411/Photon's that I run with, I can match them for punch and in the infield, but with the tekin maxed I cant touch them on the straight and my motor is on the limit of what's ok and what I can cook some egg and bacon rolls on for lunch... I have a feeling its a weight and a drive train efficiency thing.
I've given up on the Mi1, the parts are expensive and hard to get, the car isn't competitive in the class i'm running.
I learned all that the hard way. My next car is going to be the Sakura XI. Cheap to buy compared to the other big players, but comes with the lot. I can buy the car, and get parts locally, and I wont be the only driver running a Sakura.
So my advice is, A) save more money and buy a better car, something you can get parts for and that other racers are running, or B) select a brand that other racers are running at your track, then try and pick one up second hand, or a older version of it, because some spares will carry over, and the setup advice will be better.
Supporting Aussie hobby shops:
- www.MRJRacing.com.au - - www.feralbatteries.com.au - - www.actionrc.com.au -