Mb3195

i think you will find it is the ball joints on the camber links that are binding up. Although it could also be your driveshafts binding against the cups. THe easiest way to find out is to take the driveshafts out and see if it still does the same.

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Just getting back into TC after a LONG absence from 10th scale. My last TC was a T1FK05. Thanks to the new track in New Rochelle, NY I'm VERY happy to be getting back to carpet racing.

I have a few questions about building and setup of the new car.

Which 64p spur gear for 17.5 Blinky class?
Which servo? Futaba and KO servos is what I've always used, but it looks like there are a few new players out there now. I was thinking the Futaba BLS551 (Mid Profile). Would a mid profile servo or standard servo be better for the car?

Sorry for the basic questions...SO glad to be back with an XRay though. The kit quality can't be beat!

Mb3195

Futaba S9551 is as good as any out there, standard size servos are a bit of a no no now in touring cars.

Why 64dp? Not really needed, especially in blinky class.

jgraham37128

iTrader: (25)

The rear drive shafts are too long. You'll need to add a spacer to the front of the rear arm or change the axles out to 50mm (which is what I did).

JG

74VWTECH

iTrader: (19)

I'm currently using a 96 tooth 64 pitch in blinky 17.5 with a 43 tooth pinion. my track size is 100ft x 40ft. hope that helps. you may have to shave alittle of the top plate near the motor to get the proper gear mesh depending on the motor.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I drilled a hole in the cap and left the foam out. Then when you build the shocks like they were Tamiya style shocks, you can get 0 rebound easily.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Hey guys, what battery pack you guys running???

I am coming back to electric TC after a few years and after doing some little research, I have only seen Team Orion with a 90C.

I'll be running 17.5 with a Tekin ESC. Should I bother with the 90C or will a 60C be more than enough??

Con

Thank you

photopro

Your issue is expected. The arm will never travel that far when you drive because the shock cannot compress that much. If you have the recommended 1.5mm aluminum spacer between the aluminum bulkhead and the rear hinge pin mount, you should be fine. As long as you have toe in from the rear tires. Without the toe, you need the 50mm axles, otherwise you don't.


BTW, ran the 2012 last night. Im so impressed. I have spent months tuning my other touring cars and this baby was so balanced and locked in that I don't think Im changing the set-up. UNREAL

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

Don't let the orion 90c fool you. It meens 90c burst most other batteries don't list their c as burst they list as constant. I'm using both revtech 65c and thunder power 65c and really like them both

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

The Orion packs say 90C but are no where near that. When you go to a large on-road race you rarely see Orion packs. In off road you see them a bit but its because thats mostly where all their paid factory drivers run.

Personally I would stick with the ReVtech, OHP, SMC, CRC, TP packs. Those are some of the best and most reliable in the industry.

EA

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for all the quick responses guys, really appreciate it.

Usually when something seems too good to be true, its because its not and theres probably a catch. And this wasn't the exception, just didn't know what it was.

sham55

just wondering if u guys have the same problem as mine ... the problems is that the rear toe is not the same left & right, the right i got 3 deg. toe in and left i got 3.5 deg. toe in, is anyone have the same problem as i in the t3'12 ??

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

now that you mention it, my right was 3.5 and left at 4 degrees lol.

i should look into that...

Con

Yep me too. I put a 1.10 shim in the left side intsead of the 1.50 shim to compensate.
Seems to have been a problem since the T3 '10.