Xray T3 2012
#3931
Reviving this thread. For all of you who still have the 12 and havent gotten the t4 yet, I have a setup question. I have noticed lately the spring and oils have become softer with peoples setups. I ordered some softer oil and spring rates. Im going to test with 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs with 350 cst oil. Anyone have any luck/advice with the softer setup for the T3 2012 compared to the original 3.0 front 2.6 rear 500 cst out of the box setup? Curious how the car reacts on high and low traction conditions. Thank You
#3932
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Reviving this thread. For all of you who still have the 12 and havent gotten the t4 yet, I have a setup question. I have noticed lately the spring and oils have become softer with peoples setups. I ordered some softer oil and spring rates. Im going to test with 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs with 350 cst oil. Anyone have any luck/advice with the softer setup for the T3 2012 compared to the original 3.0 front 2.6 rear 500 cst out of the box setup? Curious how the car reacts on high and low traction conditions. Thank You
#3933
Ok, and as the traction picked up or at a high traction track all together, would you run the standard 3.0 front and 2.6 rear? Also would you change your shock oil or leave it? Thanks
#3934
Zero Force XRay T3 Bearing Kit Set
#3935
Tech Regular
Reviving this thread. For all of you who still have the 12 and havent gotten the t4 yet, I have a setup question. I have noticed lately the spring and oils have become softer with peoples setups. I ordered some softer oil and spring rates. Im going to test with 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs with 350 cst oil. Anyone have any luck/advice with the softer setup for the T3 2012 compared to the original 3.0 front 2.6 rear 500 cst out of the box setup? Curious how the car reacts on high and low traction conditions. Thank You
#3936
my 12 is now my vta car, anyone have a good starting point w/ setup. could i set it up like the stock t4? the t4 is awesome car to drive.
#3937
#3938
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
2.8/2.6 springs
35w oil all 4
1.5*f / 2*r camber
#2 link hole front w/4mm shim out and 1mm in
#2 link hole rear w/1mm shim out and 1mm in
0* front toe
2* rear toe
50mm ECS shafts front
52mm rears
top shock hole #3 f&r
5mm ride height f&r
6mm front droop
5mm rear droop
medium flex settings top and bottom
f&r diffs up position
Setup worked for me with my driving style
#3940
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
HTH
#3941
For a low - medium asphalt track, my suspension set up is the 2nd hole from center (front and rear), tamiya red spring at the front and tamiya yellow at the rear with 350 xray cst shock oil all around as well as 2 mm spacers at the top. Using ride spec tires (red marking).
When the traction gets really high, that's when I changed my springs to xray 2.4 at the front and 2.6 at the rear OR HPI blue at the front and HPI silver/pink at the rear. I also changed springs depending on the tires we use.
I find it that running softer springs at the front and laying down the shocks give me more steering in the corners while maintaining good speed.
I got this set up from the fast guys at our track and my lap times were indeed got faster and I could drive my '12 more consistent and more in the "edge".
I run 13.5 T boosted, indoor asphalt which has 40 feet straight and the infield has flowing lay out.
When the traction gets really high, that's when I changed my springs to xray 2.4 at the front and 2.6 at the rear OR HPI blue at the front and HPI silver/pink at the rear. I also changed springs depending on the tires we use.
I find it that running softer springs at the front and laying down the shocks give me more steering in the corners while maintaining good speed.
I got this set up from the fast guys at our track and my lap times were indeed got faster and I could drive my '12 more consistent and more in the "edge".
I run 13.5 T boosted, indoor asphalt which has 40 feet straight and the infield has flowing lay out.
#3942
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I ran my T3 for the first time on the weekend and would like some help and advice. I used the stock asphalt setting recommended in the kit, with the following differences -
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
#3943
I ran my T3 for the first time on the weekend and would like some help and advice. I used the stock asphalt setting recommended in the kit, with the following differences -
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
You may want to just lower your rear roll center first by either adding a 1mm shim to your inside camber link or remove one from the outside of the link.
By moving your shock out you will make the shock feel like it is harder and may actually decrease traction. You may want to use a lower oil and/or softer spring for a little more roll instead. Also consider using 32 rubber in the rear instead of the 36's.