ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for the update....I am not sure what the issue is, but hopefully the team will be able to identify and resolve it.

rosko

+1 on banned.

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

I will keep you posted if I receive any feedback or additional information, however, it is after business hours now in Europe, so we may not see a response right away.

rack

iTrader: (68)

I running a gear diff in the rear and a ball diff in the front. I want to put a gear diff in the front but I do not what wt oil to run in the front.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Probably 300K or 500K based on how tight the track is. Most people like the 500K the best in what I have heard.

something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-500000wt-40cc

rack

iTrader: (68)

Thank you I am going to try 500k

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

From what I heard team drivers don't like new car as it still didn't address lack of responsivness and feels a lot like old car in these terms (that's info I got from Worlds).

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

My t3 12 is dialed for me and it feels numb not really what I was looking for, but it works.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Looking for ideas...

My car feels very balanced, a joy to drive, but it looks lazy making the corner.... Looking for something that will snap around the corner...

What would you recommend changing in what order?

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Try shortening your camber links. I run the middle hole in the front, and the short hole in the rear. The car is very responsive.

Warren Weaver

iTrader: (49)

my 12 rocks i can put it anywhere on the track it gets in fast and gets out fast no complaints here

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Have you tried the progressive springs in the rear? I don't have enough runs on them outdoors to say that I am going to stick with them, but they did seem to help rotation. Generally a stiffer car, both flex and sprung will transition better, but at a cost of something else.

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

So I am building my car right now. I'm at the arm installation part now and have a question.

When you put the arms on, are you tightening them all the way then backing the screws out until the arm can fall under its own weight or how loose is loose enough?

artwork

iTrader: (88)

The arm mounts (little plastic blocks) need to be fastened tight, but the arms should drop and move very freely. This step takes a while and may require an arm reamer to get perfect.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Here's some food for thought... I have 2 Xrays. One is a T3 '11 (with all the mods to 2012) and the other is an original T3 (2010). They both have spools in the front and gear diffs w/ 700 cst oil in the rear. I have set both of them up for 17.5 Non-Timing Sedan racing. Both cars had the same motor, ESC, receiver, and battery in them. Surprisingly I found that the T3 '11 feels lazier when going around corners than the original T3 does. Both cars have identical servos in them, Futaba S9551, so it's not a matter of servo speed. I'm beginning to wonder if the original (i.e. single post) steering mechanics makes the car feel quicker when going around corners.