DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

btw - don't get them too hot. I used about 50 degreesC on my warmers

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Oh! I just happen to have a Much More oven.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

I did that once...

Matt W

Hi,

Can you take the middle screws out of the rear of the top deck to give that end a bit more flex and grip?

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Yes. I remove top deck screws frequently, it makes a noticeable difference on the track.

Matt W

Its just that ive bought the solid rear suspension block to sort the toe issue out which also reduces rear chassis flex. I thought I might be able to put some rear flex back by taking out two of the rear topdeck screws!

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Yes some guys do that but they take the front 2 screws out....Not the middle ones. If you look the rear screws attach to the bulkheads. The front screws attach to the motor mount/layshaft mounts. If you take those it allows the chassis to flex there. If you take the middle ones out it is still tied to both sets of bulkheads and doesnt allow flex.

EA

Skiddins

Will that gain steering or rear grip?

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Rear grip. It will flex between the layshaft mounts and rear bulkhead mounts.

EA

Mb3195

I've taken the Dremel to mine, taken the chassis 1.5mm narrower and trimmed the front of the top deck. Car now flexes equally front and rear, car goes miles better!

FLAT OUT

Can you post some pics of your mods, Im sure every one would find this use full

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Ok so i bought these xray weights hoping for a clean install but maybe im not understanding but i cant see how u can screw these in with the battery stops in place and only the 10g ones screw in the 5 g i guess u gotta double side tape down???? IDK maybe anybody whos using these can explain to me or did i just buy overpriced weights

Skiddins

First meeting back at West London for a couple of months and found I was struggling a bit for steering.

It may partly be down to me trying to carry too much corner speed and actually acheiving the opposite.

This was the setup I ended on;

http://piez0r.com/Skiddins/Xray%20Se...%2011-3-12.pdf

I also tried 1.5mm shims at the front wishbones (no arm sweep), 2.8F & 2.6R springs.
0 & 1mm ackerman shims, shocks more upright, 1mm at the steering link knuckle and HPI Pink(F) and silver(R) springs.
Also 1mm at he front upper clamp

The biggest change was making the front upper link shorter which helped.
Didn't have time to try making the rear link longer, or reducing rear toe in.

Rear grip wasn't an issue unless I really tried to provoke it.

Would changing to the 2.0mm chassis give me a lot more steering?
Any idea's?

Thanks
Skiddins

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Sorry but those weights weren't made for the 2012 kit. I just double side tape them in. The parma tape holds them nicely and comes off without any mess

TWILL

iTrader: (12)

I just put my car together last week and raced Sat.night. I am using the jointed front 50mm cvd's.I am getting some binding and broke a composite outdrive....should I be using the 52mm? or should I just use the stock units?