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Old 02-12-2012, 12:54 PM   #1456
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I have used those Spec R v2 double jointed uni shafts for a few months now in my T3 2012 and they are excellent. I was having trouble with the grub screw coming loose in the genuine xray CVDs. Much smoother steering as well.

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Old 02-12-2012, 01:23 PM   #1457
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Can you explain what do you use for sealing the gear diff without the O ring? Since I'm not a native speaker I dont understand what you are using
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #1458
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Seems like the gear diff with 700 is diffing out. It's like It doesn't grip or move on throttle right away. It makes a strange sound then drives forward. Will thicker diff oil fix this?
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:24 PM   #1459
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Default Zero Force Xray T3 2012 Opition Parts

Zero Force Xray T3 2012 CNC 2.2mm Carbon Chassis (ZF-XT-301122)

Xray T3 2012-zero-force-xray-t3-2012-cnc-2.2mm-carbon-chassis-zf-xt-301122-p_wm.jpg

Zero Force Xray T3 2012 2.0mm Carbon Upper Deck (ZF-XT-301193)

Xray T3 2012-zero-force-xray-t3-2012-2.0mm-carbon-upper-deck-zf-xt-301193-p_wm.jpg

www.rcgoods.com
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #1460
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Seems like the gear diff with 700 is diffing out. It's like It doesn't grip or move on throttle right away. It makes a strange sound then drives forward. Will thicker diff oil fix this?
it would depend on the level of grip at your track.
hard to say what you're going to need without being there.

but generally,
the heavier, the more on power steering, the less off power steering- could make car slide if too heavy
the lighter, more off power steering, but maybe unstable if too light squirly when get on the power.
try to find a medium you feel comfortable with

go by what feels best for yourself.
generally i'll use a spectrum of 25wt to 50wt and 80wt in extreme cases (losi oil)
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:33 AM   #1461
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it would depend on the level of grip at your track.
hard to say what you're going to need without being there.

but generally,
the heavier, the more on power steering, the less off power steering- could make car slide if too heavy
the lighter, more off power steering, but maybe unstable if too light squirly when get on the power.
try to find a medium you feel comfortable with

go by what feels best for yourself.
generally i'll use a spectrum of 25wt to 50wt and 80wt in extreme cases (losi oil)
It seems to happen when coming out of a corner as soon as I get on the throttle hard. The traction is by no means high. It's low to medium. It does come up around the 3rd qualifier, but still does it then. I'll 1000. Thanks
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:53 AM   #1462
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.

So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.

I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
I've had good luck with the Xray flat spot pins, and using a new grub screw each time I rebuild them (with Loctite, of course). However, I have a brand new set of the TOP retainers in my bag. I didn't think they fit the Xray CVDs. I will have to put them on my car.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:31 AM   #1463
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I've had good luck with the Xray flat spot pins, and using a new grub screw each time I rebuild them (with Loctite, of course). However, I have a brand new set of the TOP retainers in my bag. I didn't think they fit the Xray CVDs. I will have to put them on my car.
I'm not the first person to discover that they work. I can't remember who posted it up in the T3'11 thread, but I picked up a set immediately after hearing about it, and I've run and been happy with them ever since. For me, it's one less thing to fiddle with, leaving me more time for more important adjustments to try.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:07 PM   #1464
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Default Clamps

Does anybody carry the aftermarket bulkhead clamps and which ones are lower than the stock ones. The a plus ones say 1 mm lower
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:34 PM   #1465
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Does anybody carry the aftermarket bulkhead clamps and which ones are lower than the stock ones. The a plus ones say 1 mm lower
CRC is carrying the VBC ones in the US. They have 4 holes instead of 3 but not sure how low they are. Only 23.99 a set too.

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Old 02-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #1466
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hey guys im going over paul lemieuxs set up sheet off of the teamxray.com....and he has written down that he doesnt put an oring on the shaft of the shock.....i took my shocks apart and did this and without the o ring air gets sucked into the shock.....is this a mistake or do guys actually run like this?
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:45 PM   #1467
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hey guys im going over paul lemieuxs set up sheet off of the teamxray.com....and he has written down that he doesnt put an oring on the shaft of the shock.....i took my shocks apart and did this and without the o ring air gets sucked into the shock.....is this a mistake or do guys actually run like this?
That part is for an o-ring on the outside of the shock shaft to act as a bump stop per say I think. Ive never seen anyone run that before.

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Old 02-13-2012, 12:50 PM   #1468
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
That part is for an o-ring on the outside of the shock shaft to act as a bump stop per say I think. Ive never seen anyone run that before.

EA
what h

oh ok thanks wasnt sure what that meant and since it was stated in the shock section thats the only o ring i could think of
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:15 PM   #1469
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
CRC is carrying the VBC ones in the US. They have 4 holes instead of 3 but not sure how low they are. Only 23.99 a set too.

EA
They look very nice, as a local has got them on his car. Also the new chassis and top deck look very nice as well. The chassis and top deck create a lot of lateral flex in the car, but this seems to be a good thing from what I have seen.

I drove the car the other night and it seemed good even on medium and higher bite carpet tracks.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:56 AM   #1470
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
Can you explain what do you use for sealing the gear diff without the O ring? Since I'm not a native speaker I dont understand what you are using
This is enough: http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...sket%20%284%29
Or you take two of them if one doesnt work.
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