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Old 02-11-2012, 12:34 AM   #1441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zainy View Post
Hello Everyone ,

I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.

My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.

I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.

So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.

Any Idea ???
You mean the universal shaft?
I had this too. I pushed the pin several times trough the drive axle till I can push it through with my fingers. After that the bending was gone.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:04 AM   #1442
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
So Exotek is doing Tamiya style lower suspension holders?
Where is the advantadge in this solution compare to the Xray one?
Equal toe left and right
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:07 AM   #1443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zainy View Post
Hello Everyone ,

I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.

My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.

I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.

So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.

Any Idea ???
The only reason I can think of for that happening without crashing is that the grub screw holding the pin into the joint is too tight, so the pin is actually bent slightly.

Make the sure the UJ is loose enough by rolling it slowly in your hands, the axle should always drop down no matter what position the driveshaft dogbone is in. It will stick if there is a a problem.

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Old 02-11-2012, 05:06 AM   #1444
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Has anyone ever noticed that the front inner hingepin holders (302044) on the rear end are slightly touching the rear bulkheads?
Best regards,
David
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:11 AM   #1445
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cant wait to receive my T3! finally i join team xray
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:21 PM   #1446
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I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.

So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.

I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:31 PM   #1447
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.

So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.

I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
Considering the amount of people who have had issues with the pins coming out (me included!) why don't Xray have something like this as standard? Frustrating!
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:11 PM   #1448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.

So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.

I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
Can you post a pic? I'm definitely gonna put in an order for both of mine.
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:20 PM   #1449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
Can you post a pic? I'm definitely gonna put in an order for both of mine.
Actually, I can't right now, I'm out of the country for work.

It fits over the stub axle joint, and is held in place against the inner hub bearing, covering the joint. IIRC, the CVD pins that come with the collars fit the XRay shafts as well.

Installation is very easy, remove the CVD by whatever method you normally do, remove the grub screw, clean and regrease the joint, slide the collar on, reinstall and marvel at how easy it is to free the CVD up better than it ever has been, with no chance of the drive pin gouging the hubs or locking up a wheel short of a catastrophic failure.
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:31 PM   #1450
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my mod for Xray T3 2012 original CVD shaft PIN,
i made flat spot area for my PIN, it work well. my PIN don't loose again.
in fact, i modify it since my T3 2010.
(most of Thailand Xray racer using this TIP.)



==================================================

or you can use this xray drive shaft PIN with FLAT SPOT
(it's option, so sorry... it don't include in T3 2012 kit box)


Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:26 PM   #1451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith9turbo View Post
my mod for Xray T3 2012 original CVD shaft PIN,
i made flat spot area for my PIN, it work well. my PIN don't loose again.
in fact, i modify it since my T3 2010.
(most of Thailand Xray racer using this TIP.)
Yeah, I tried all that too, degreasing all the parts, thread locker on the grub screw, still had a couple DNF's and wrecked hubs from the pin moving.

For $10, a year ago, I have no more issues.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #1452
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Yeah, I tried all that too, degreasing all the parts, thread locker on the grub screw, still had a couple DNF's and wrecked hubs from the pin moving.

For $10, a year ago, I have no more issues.
oh, i forgot to tell about CVD hex screw
for T3 2010 this hex screw 3x2.5mm is the weak point. it's low material. (other hex screw size in the T3 2010 box is good material)
for T3 2012, i see 3x2.5 CVD hex screw is good material already.

T3 2010, CVD hex screw, look no good enough, since it is new.


T3 2010, CVD hex screw after run 8 packs.
seem screw's metal not hard enough. it easy to erode.


So, for my T3 2010 ... i must change to use tamiya hex screw 3x3mm instead. it work perfect for my over 1 year used.
but for my T3 2012 i still use CVD hex screw that is in T3 2012 KIT box. i think ... it good enough.

Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:47 PM   #1453
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Build your CVD however you like.

The TOP Pin retainers work, have a perfectly smooth operating joint, and even helps contain the lubricant a bit.

... Without tightening, checking, loosening, re-tightening and checking and all that to make sure the joint is moving freely.

Some guys at the local track use the TOP retainers, some use grub screws, some use heat shrink.

The original concern was about CVD's not moving freely and causing bending, all I did was post the part I use that make that aspect fool proof.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:58 PM   #1454
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CV swing shaft V2 from SPEC-R for xray T3. it look so good.


Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:41 AM   #1455
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I checked the website but didn't find any info; does anyone know if the Spec-r v2 axles above are available in 52 mm lengths, or just the 50 mm as before?
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