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Old 01-26-2012, 07:00 AM   #1336
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Would I notice anything in handling going from 50's to 52's?
With 52mm the car is easier to drive but it understeers more than with 50mm. The car is more agressive with 50 mm.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:10 AM   #1337
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Hey guys newbie question here ....whats the difference when u adjust the rear toe-in at the legs with the shims or if u buy the rear aluminum uprites with the integrated toe in?
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If you run a lot of rear toe like 4 degrees or so and and just keep adding spacers inboard it puts the hinge pin at a great angle and could bind. I run the 1 degree rear hubs most of the time as I race on low traction.
Also, when you run toe on the hubs, that toe is constant as the suspension compresses. With inboard toe, it continues to toe in more as the suspension is compressed. Having outboard toe versus inboard can help free up in the rear end in the corners.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:16 AM   #1338
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PRS pinions, and either Xray or the Xray specific RW spurs. Yes, the '12 prefers the offset spurs.
Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:01 AM   #1339
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Then you have something set up seriously wrong, either with your ESC or in the car.

I run my belt in the central (kit) position
Hi Damian, what setting do you run on the front belt as i can never decide if mine is too loose.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:26 AM   #1340
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Also, when you run toe on the hubs, that toe is constant as the suspension compresses. With inboard toe, it continues to toe in more as the suspension is compressed. Having outboard toe versus inboard can help free up in the rear end in the corners.
I just recently added 1* on the outboard hubs, while running same amount of total toe as I previously did by just adding shims. It definately did free up the rear end, especialy in tight S curve sections of the track.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:33 AM   #1341
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How would adding the 1 degree hubs effect the handling in long high speed sweeper turns?

Our track is pretty tight and turny and I need to get some more rear side-to-side traction to hold more speed but I don't want to sacrifice turning speed either.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:13 PM   #1342
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Hi Damian, what setting do you run on the front belt as i can never decide if mine is too loose.
One notch looser than kit
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:55 PM   #1343
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Hi, I have a brandnew t3 2012 , and am currenctly running a s411, read this thread and everyone says the t3 is better, i am really liking the s411, and do not want to open the t3 box as it will be worth more sealed, my question is does the t3 2012 feel easier to drive then say your other car you may have owned in the past and where can I view setup sheets for high grip carpet thanks
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:10 PM   #1344
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Hi, I have a brandnew t3 2012 , and am currenctly running a s411, read this thread and everyone says the t3 is better, i am really liking the s411, and do not want to open the t3 box as it will be worth more sealed, my question is does the t3 2012 feel easier to drive then say your other car you may have owned in the past and where can I view setup sheets for high grip carpet thanks
I feel the '12 is by far the easiest to drive. I had an '11, but I couldn't get the right feel. I think the stock set up is the best to use. The only thing I changed was going to a 1.5 front bar. I like a car w/ a little push. I have driven a fellow racer s411, and it felt very fast, but a tad loose in the rear for me. He didn't cut the top deck yet to plant the rear, but i'm sure once he did, the rear became planted. JMO
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:29 PM   #1345
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
With 52mm the car is easier to drive but it understeers more than with 50mm. The car is more agressive with 50 mm.
Thanks
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:59 AM   #1346
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
With 52mm the car is easier to drive but it understeers more than with 50mm. The car is more agressive with 50 mm.
Would you recommend using 52 in front and 50 in the rear? Would that create more understeer with more traction going to the rear?
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:46 AM   #1347
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Originally Posted by emerge View Post
Would you recommend using 52 in front and 50 in the rear? Would that create more understeer with more traction going to the rear?
It's better in my opinion to have 52mm in the rear and 50mm in front, since you have the stability at the rear and agression in front You can combine it and drivers use different combinations. In general 52mm are better for large fast tracks and 50 mm are better for smaller, more technical asphalt tracks.
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Old 01-28-2012, 03:47 AM   #1348
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Have anyone try the modification rear suspension like Hagberg did on DHI cup? How does it feel? Will it works on asphalt? Thanks
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:29 AM   #1349
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Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I just recently added 1* on the outboard hubs, while running same amount of total toe as I previously did by just adding shims. It definately did free up the rear end, especialy in tight S curve sections of the track.
What do u guys mean by freeing up the rear end ?
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:04 AM   #1350
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What do u guys mean by freeing up the rear end ?
I race at a fairly technical track, the rear end of my t3 was too planted causing the chassis to not properly rotate through the turns (s turn). When I went to 1* outboards (along with a longer rear link) the car really came alive in that particular section. I made both changes (outboard and longer rear link) at the same time. I feel that the longer link, combined with the outboard 1*, made more of a difference than if I would of just changed the outboards alone.
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