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Old 01-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #1261
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
I'd second that. I now even use a new set of very stiff wheels without tires on to get the camber spot on with the hand gauges. Its another small step in getting my pace upto the two top UK drivers at my track.

Another note, is that i've found 700cst too low for getting the car around high speed sweepers and 1000cst is a big step up. (Another tenth off my laptimes on carpet.) I'm even considering going higher. The T3 2012 has so much rear traction and side bite built in that i've found it a must to get the rear to rotate more, especially on very technical tracks. Almost Tamiya like lol!
If you can get away with more aggressive steering, try using front arm sweep with front wheel toe out, it's too much for sweeping tracks. but better on tracks with a few tight 180deg corners etc.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:28 PM   #1262
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Quick question, I am running Mod with the new car and have fitted the large LRP heatsink with the fan attached.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/new-pr...efter/details/

I was ust wondering is this needed? or is it too large and do any of the factory guys run them?


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Old 01-16-2012, 03:59 PM   #1263
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I don't even run a fan let alone a heat sink running mod. The motors have so much power, they don't get pushed hard, and don't run as hot as a stock motor. I run a 5.0t with boost/turbo, and it runs 150-165* in the Florida heat.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:59 PM   #1264
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Originally Posted by NR View Post
Quick question, I am running Mod with the new car and have fitted the large LRP heatsink with the fan attached.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/new-pr...efter/details/

I was ust wondering is this needed? or is it too large and do any of the factory guys run them?


Regards
Nathan
Ari was/is running the Nosram version of this fan. I'm a believer in keeping things as cool as possible and have fitted these to both my indoors (foam carpet) and outdoors (rubber tarmac). The motors do seem to be running cooler and certainly I'm having less heat problems compared to others.

I've been running these fans in modified with ambient temps off around 30 deg Celsius.
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:36 AM   #1265
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It depends on the track and the outside temperature.
My home track is very big (90m straight) and you can never have too much power.
The limiting factor in my speedo settings when traction allows it is the motor temperature (I run the Nosram equivalents of LRP SXX TC spec V2 and X12 4.5T octa).
During the summer the heatsink with the fan helps a lot although it does upset the balance of the car.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:25 AM   #1266
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hi again guys..
my rear belt keep snapping...2 times on track,2 times it snap...checking the pulley,theres no rock stuck sign..i put the notch backward to give it plays coz center position looks like too tight...the rest,following 100% setup like the setup sheet coz i'm not a pro driver.. what make it snap?
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:37 AM   #1267
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hi again guys..
my rear belt keep snapping...2 times on track,2 times it snap...checking the pulley,theres no rock stuck sign..i put the notch backward to give it plays coz center position looks like too tight...the rest,following 100% setup like the setup sheet coz i'm not a pro driver.. what make it snap?
With a gear diff the belt needs to be pretty tight. The center position should be perfect for a new belt.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:44 AM   #1268
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Originally Posted by kakaroctt View Post
hi again guys..
my rear belt keep snapping...2 times on track,2 times it snap...checking the pulley,theres no rock stuck sign..i put the notch backward to give it plays coz center position looks like too tight...the rest,following 100% setup like the setup sheet coz i'm not a pro driver.. what make it snap?
If you are running Mod and have the rear belt tighter than the front, they can snap pretty easily.

Last summer running mod, all of my friends that were using gear diffs had their rear belts break at least once. I was using a ball diff and had no issues with snapping belts, but of course I had to rebuild my diff every run.

Go a little easier on the throttle out of corners and tighten your front belt, so the majority of force doesn't have to be absorbed by the rear belt under acceleration.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:46 AM   #1269
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With a gear diff the belt needs to be pretty tight. The center position should be perfect for a new belt.
but it makes my car running with noisy noise...plus motor temp raising to 90c with only 1 lap...
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:55 AM   #1270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locked View Post
If you are running Mod and have the rear belt tighter than the front, they can snap pretty easily.

Last summer running mod, all of my friends that were using gear diffs had their rear belts break at least once. I was using a ball diff and had no issues with snapping belts, but of course I had to rebuild my diff every run.
im running 10.5t boosted..

Quote:
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Go a little easier on the throttle out of corners and tighten your front belt, so the majority of force doesn't have to be absorbed by the rear belt under acceleration.
im using 4pk,with 0 acc...how to lowered throttle to be more 'little easier'?my finger are too hard to be little easier..
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:03 AM   #1271
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lol..stop stabbing the throttle.

You could use a bit of expo to help make the acceleration a little smoother, but if you are yanking full throttle out of every corner, expo won't do much.

Work on pulling the trigger a tiny bit slower. Smooth is fast.


Tighten your front belt.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:11 AM   #1272
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
lol..stop stabbing the throttle.

You could use a bit of expo to help make the acceleration a little smoother, but if you are yanking full throttle out of every corner, expo won't do much.

Work on pulling the trigger a tiny bit slower. Smooth is fast.
you're right..!


Quote:
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Tighten your front belt.
i'm working on it right now..!

thanks locked..
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:34 AM   #1273
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I'm a bit confused with the gear diff and the rear belt. I put the belt much looser than initial middle position, because it seemed too tight. How should the belt be for 10,5T boosted'
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:54 AM   #1274
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Originally Posted by kakaroctt View Post
but it makes my car running with noisy noise...plus motor temp raising to 90c with only 1 lap...
Then you have something set up seriously wrong, either with your ESC or in the car.

I run my belt in the central (kit) position
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:11 PM   #1275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakaroctt View Post
but it makes my car running with noisy noise...plus motor temp raising to 90c with only 1 lap...
2 snapped belts, hot motor, noisey, think you have built something wrong fella

I run slack belts, with 64 dp gears and the car is all but silent.

Bb
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