R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-15-2012, 12:20 PM   #1246
Tech Master
 
gonzo416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,938
Trader Rating: 39 (98%+)
Default

I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
gonzo416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 01:01 PM   #1247
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,708
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
Loosen one of the pivot block screws and push the wishbone in that direction, while still applying the pressure, tighten the pivot block screw.

If necessary do the same to the other block.

Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 01:11 PM   #1248
Tech Master
 
gonzo416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,938
Trader Rating: 39 (98%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Loosen one of the pivot block screws and push the wishbone in that direction, while still applying the pressure, tighten the pivot block screw.

If necessary do the same to the other block.

Skiddins
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.
gonzo416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #1249
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,708
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.
Which wishbones are we talking about? or all of them.

I don't see how it can get caught in the hole in the arm but move freely out of the car, unless the pivot blocks are pinching it somehow.
The pin should be held tight in the pivot blocks, it's the wishbone that should be free.

Are you reaming the wishbone or the blocks?

If it's just at the back, the two alloy mounts at the front of the rear wishbones apparently have an orientation so they need to end up actually angled in slightly to help produce the standard amount of toe.

Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 03:00 PM   #1250
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,708
Default

If all else fails can you take a few photo's of how you have everything at the front set up.

Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #1251
Tech Master
 
gonzo416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,938
Trader Rating: 39 (98%+)
Default

It's the wishbone(arm). The holes are not aligned properly.But I found the problem. As I said before, the aluminum lower suspension mounts are too close. I had to shave a little off the arms so they would fit between the suspension mounts. Now they are free. Thanks for the help.
gonzo416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 06:55 PM   #1252
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 610
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
How about Spec R?
I heard nothing but bad news about the Spec R ECS shafts....I heard that they are made of aluminum, and on several occasions they had sheared apart during an impact....I finished racing today with the Arrowmax ECS shafts and they performed flawlessley, even after taking two hard hits.
NPETRO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #1253
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,404
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
Tried that.The hinge pin gets caught up in one of the holes in the arm. And there's not enough room between the hinge pin holders. I know this because one of the arms that falls freely on the pin when it's not mounted to the chassis doesn't fall freely when installed. This is a problem.

Even after you tighten the plastic hinge pin holders or rc adjusters to the aluminum blocks, you still might have to loosen the aluminum mounts via the screws thru the chassis, and then give each of the arms a slight tap with the handle of your wrench, then re-tighten the chassis screws. I had the same problem and this was the fix. I think if you tried 12 different arms the problem isn't with the mold, that seems pretty consistent.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012, 09:23 PM   #1254
Tech Addict
 
Zainy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Klang
Posts: 685
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile TECH TIP: Suspension Unbinding

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2872


Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
Zainy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 04:57 AM   #1255
Tech Regular
 
terryh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
I am having a serious problem with both of the front hinge pins. The arm is supposed to fall freely. I have tried 12 front arms and only one(option-2hole) falls freely. There must be a problem with the mold. I reamed one with a 3mm reamer but now there is too much play/slop in it which would affect handling and toe. I also roll the pin and it seems straight. I took out one of the 1mm spacers and the arms fall freely, but then there is too much play front to back. So somehow it appears that there is not enough room between the suspension blocks, and that would be that the holes in the chassis are off by a hair. I am going to try different plastic lower suspension holders to rule that out. I have built many XRAY rollers and not encountered this problem. I can't move on til I correct this.
It sounds as though one of the suspension mount screws could be bent. Hold the suspension block tight against the bulkhead whilst undoing the screws, you will be able to see if its straight as it comes out.
terryh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 05:13 AM   #1256
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 157
Send a message via AIM to Matt W
Default composite shims

Hi,

Appart from to save on costs, is there any reason why the kit uses composite shims in certain places, for example either side of the wishbones?
Matt W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 06:11 AM   #1257
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryh View Post
It sounds as though one of the suspension mount screws could be bent. Hold the suspension block tight against the bulkhead whilst undoing the screws, you will be able to see if its straight as it comes out.
Three possible things:

1) Hinge pin is bent. After removal, roll on flat surface. It will be obvious if it is bent.
2) Screw is bent. After removal, roll on flat surface. It will be obvious if the screw is bent.
3) When you tighten the screw, you need to press the arm against the block you're tightening. Otherwise, they will be slightly out of alignment, causing the hinge pin to be cocked slightly.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 10:30 AM   #1258
Tech Master
 
gonzo416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,938
Trader Rating: 39 (98%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Even after you tighten the plastic hinge pin holders or rc adjusters to the aluminum blocks, you still might have to loosen the aluminum mounts via the screws thru the chassis, and then give each of the arms a slight tap with the handle of your wrench, then re-tighten the chassis screws. I had the same problem and this was the fix. I think if you tried 12 different arms the problem isn't with the mold, that seems pretty consistent.
This is the only thing I didn't try. I have already taken some material of the front of the arm. About .20mm, and now it's free. I will definitely try your method if the toe is off or if there is tweak. If all is good I don't want to touch it. Thanks for all the help guys.
gonzo416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 10:34 AM   #1259
Tech Apprentice
 
orci77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Germany
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
It's the wishbone(arm). The holes are not aligned properly.But I found the problem. As I said before, the aluminum lower suspension mounts are too close. I had to shave a little off the arms so they would fit between the suspension mounts. Now they are free. Thanks for the help.
Did you tried the tech tip from Xray: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic....99110ed#p41851
Worked for me. Didnt have to ream or take off material from anywhere.
__________________
Xray T3'012 + Nosram Pearl SpecRacing V2 + LRP X12 17,5T / X11 9,5T / X11 6,5T
Team Associated SC10 + Nosram Matrix Reverse + LRP X11 13,5T
3Racing F1-09 + LRP Sphere + LRP X11 17,5T
orci77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2012, 01:57 PM   #1260
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 226
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Not for me, sold mine, my car drives loads better with measurement taken off the wheels not the gauges. (set the car up against the wheel tyre combo you intend to run)

Bb
I'd second that. I now even use a new set of very stiff wheels without tires on to get the camber spot on with the hand gauges. Its another small step in getting my pace upto the two top UK drivers at my track.

Another note, is that i've found 700cst too low for getting the car around high speed sweepers and 1000cst is a big step up. (Another tenth off my laptimes on carpet.) I'm even considering going higher. The T3 2012 has so much rear traction and side bite built in that i've found it a must to get the rear to rotate more, especially on very technical tracks. Almost Tamiya like lol!
maxg123456 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray T3 2011 entitymugenmtx Electric On-Road 4150 05-19-2014 12:53 PM
Xray T3 2011 New in Box olhipster1 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 08-04-2011 05:27 AM
XRAY T3 2012 bila nk keluar? bravolous Malaysian R/C Racers 8 06-16-2011 11:58 PM
Xray T3 nitro rat Australia For Sale/Trade 22 09-19-2010 03:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:01 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net