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Old 12-30-2011, 08:23 PM   #1081
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I must be missing something, but I'm running the stock front driveshafts (as I will be shortly converting to ecs shafts)....but why are they such a problem?????

I previously ran a tc6, and everything seems the same as the xray shafts, except associated ran a ring around the exterior of the shaft to keep the pin in place................I wish xray also designed a metal ring to keep it in place, makes no sense to have to use shring tube instead of designing a metal ring....If associated did it, so can xray...and I am damn sure xray would of done a better job designing a retaining ring
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:38 PM   #1082
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Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I must be missing something, but I'm running the stock front driveshafts (as I will be shortly converting to ecs shafts)....but why are they such a problem?????

I previously ran a tc6, and everything seems the same as the xray shafts, except associated ran a ring around the exterior of the shaft to keep the pin in place................I wish xray also designed a metal ring to keep it in place, makes no sense to have to use shring tube instead of designing a metal ring....If associated did it, so can xray...and I am damn sure xray would of done a better job designing a retaining ring
Honestly, I think it is a good tuning option, but it is not required for any type of racing. If you think the AE design is good you should see the Tamiya design. The way they made the ring so that it does not move is even better. It is always a good idea to have both with you. Don't believe the hype buy some and try them, then you can formulate your own opinion about how effective they are. I like having the option ,but there are plenty of cars winning races without them. Just like any tuning part there is a time and a place for everything.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #1083
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I'm running on high traction carpet with LRP 4.5. I was using SP motor it was running smooth but since I changed to LRP, it has a lot more acceleration then SP. My car spin 180 deg when getting out of high speed corner. I have done so many different setting like camber, spring, roll center, shock positing, wheel base. And still not completely solve this issue just getting better. I heard some people is setting the down stop of F3 and R2. And I see his car is running fine. Isn't this F3R2 down stop is way too much droop? Is this normal setting? I know it works but should I try set other thing instead to have that much downstop/droop? I'm afraid this will make the car too slow for reaction. What do you think to solve my issue? And F3R2 is consider too much?
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:44 AM   #1084
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Hmmm, I've bent both my front Hudy spring steel drive shafts on my boosted 13.5 car. No big wrecks, just tagging corners, plastic drive cups didn't break. Haven't broken any other suspension parts at all, go figure. Anybody had success straightening these shafts?
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:03 AM   #1085
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Your the first one at the track that I've seen do that. I'm wondering if the Aluminum Outdrives + 52mm shafts + the amount of camber you run could have caused some serious binding during an impact and the only thing that could dissapate the force was the bending of the shaft.

I've hit enough stuff to say that the Spring Steel Shafts are pretty durable.
I bend my first hudy spring steel shaft some weeks ago. I was on full throttle (17.5T boost) on the straight. There is a 90 turn that you go full. So my steering was fully on the left and then a car came against driving direction and hit me. No plastic part broken, only the drive shaft bended slightly. You cannot see it but if you rotate it you see it.

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The rear belt is way too tight for stock or super stock racing as the kit describes it. I am running mine much looser to really let the car rotate.
That is also something that is strange from my point of view. I use nearly the last position for diff up. I wound if the diameter of the gear diff is different to the ball diff.
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Old 12-31-2011, 05:25 AM   #1086
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Default Xray driveshaft replacement

If you really are unhappy with the absence of a retaining ring for the crosspin in Xrays driveshafts use the Atomic ones. We have been using these for indoor racing for about a year.

http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/index.php
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:44 PM   #1087
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WHat is the effect of front arm sweep in real terms?

I know it supposedly reduces the friction on the pivot pins of the front arms during turns etc.
But what is the effect on handling?

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:44 PM   #1088
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
WHat is the effect of front arm sweep in real terms?

I know it supposedly reduces the friction on the pivot pins of the front arms during turns etc.
But what is the effect on handling?

Thanks
Skiddins
Adding front sweep (smaller shim in the front/rear then in the front/front) (Arm will appear to toe out) will make the car turn-in a little better and can also help mid corner, but will make the car harder to drive. you will sacrifice stability for entry grip. I have not tried this setting on the Xray, but I have tried it before on many other cars. Some setups are better suited for front sweep and some not so much. I would suggest giving it a try and documenting your results.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:23 AM   #1089
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Is there any benefit in using the aluminum uprights/steering blocks/c-hubs for racing?
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:59 AM   #1090
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Is there any benefit in using the aluminum uprights/steering blocks/c-hubs for racing?
i had used the aluminium upright, my experience was that the bearings would not last long due to they r reduced in size and they cannot take the heat generated by high speed rotation eventually they wear out more quickly than the original size bearing, or you may use ceramic bearings if u thought of using the aluminium upright.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:10 AM   #1091
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Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I must be missing something, but I'm running the stock front driveshafts (as I will be shortly converting to ecs shafts)....but why are they such a problem?????

I previously ran a tc6, and everything seems the same as the xray shafts, except associated ran a ring around the exterior of the shaft to keep the pin in place................I wish xray also designed a metal ring to keep it in place, makes no sense to have to use shring tube instead of designing a metal ring....If associated did it, so can xray...and I am damn sure xray would of done a better job designing a retaining ring
I've been using the T.O.P ones on one of my cars as an insurance policy, the others though have not had any problems.
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Last edited by nerdling; 01-01-2012 at 04:25 AM.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:22 AM   #1092
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Originally Posted by Cristian Silva View Post
Having issues with with snapping the rear belt, I've gone through 3 belts in a short amount of time which is unusual. Ive got the tightness on the centre bottom notch as per kitt and have also tried 1 notch looser, belt still snapping. Any one else having this issue and what can I do to prevent snapping them. Running mod on asphalt. Kit setup.
Hi Cristian,

I snapped a belt at FEMCA, brand new, and it was the first one I've ever done. Brian (a mate) has gone through 3 in a very short time. We ended up running a bit more tension then what we were normally running.

I put this down to the gear diffs. The Diffs have no give (unlike the ball diffs).
The drive line unloads (forwhatever reason) then grips, this shock, that used to be absorbed by the ball diff is now taken by the belt... which only stretches so far...

Mark
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:08 AM   #1093
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Originally Posted by RodeeYoshi View Post
i had used the aluminium upright, my experience was that the bearings would not last long due to they r reduced in size and they cannot take the heat generated by high speed rotation eventually they wear out more quickly than the original size bearing, or you may use ceramic bearings if u thought of using the aluminium upright.
Don't use the plastic insert and instead use 5x11x4 bearings. Problem solved.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:27 AM   #1094
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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
Hi Cristian,

I snapped a belt at FEMCA, brand new, and it was the first one I've ever done. Brian (a mate) has gone through 3 in a very short time. We ended up running a bit more tension then what we were normally running.

I put this down to the gear diffs. The Diffs have no give (unlike the ball diffs).
The drive line unloads (forwhatever reason) then grips, this shock, that used to be absorbed by the ball diff is now taken by the belt... which only stretches so far...

Mark
Try yokomo rear belts.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:41 AM   #1095
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Originally Posted by RodeeYoshi View Post
i had used the aluminium upright, my experience was that the bearings would not last long due to they r reduced in size and they cannot take the heat generated by high speed rotation eventually they wear out more quickly than the original size bearing, or you may use ceramic bearings if u thought of using the aluminium upright.
If lubed properly, there shouldn't be any heat in the bearings at all.
Maybe they were't quite straight or something.
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