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Old 12-29-2011, 08:59 AM   #1051
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Yes, this is what I thought too. Let the o rings soak in oil first them built it.
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:50 AM   #1052
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
When I changed to Xray (T2'009) I was impressed because you feel every change on the car. For me this is by now typical for Xray. Obviously same on the T3'012.

The body makes a big difference to what I have experienced so far. Bought a Protoform R9-R because I was tolded it gives good steering. But it is undrivable on tight fast tracks with chicanes. Run the LTC-R which is smoother. But the Mazda is even more neutral and I dont have any problems with too less steering.

I am still running the basic carpet setup till now except I changd to 2000 oil in the gear diff and use a more inner hole in the shock towers. Did you try to shim the shocks in front? Calms down the car a lot.
I could imagine that removing the inner shim on the rear upper linkage might also help.

Yep I have tried a bunch of things...shimming out the shocks is just one on a long list of things I have tried. I will keep working at it...I think finding the right setup for each person is a matter of driving style and track conditions.

I went up from 700CST to 1000CST and this seems to be better at my track.

I will be spending another 10-12 hours at the track today working through different setup options and will let you guys knows what I come away with.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:12 AM   #1053
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Primary car has the following

Spec r gear diff
Hudy ecs
Alum. Shocks
Ceramic bearings
Side piece outdrives
Servo Mod.
+.75 and -.75 hex
Plastics are original except for the 1 degree rear hubs. I would keep a lot of this stuff for the new chassis if purchased.
So the pieces you will need to bring the car current are:

301132 T3'12 Graphite Chassis 2.5mm

301193 T3'12 Graphite Upper Deck 2.0mm

302028-O T3 Alu Upper Clamp with Adj. Roll-Center RR-FL - Orange X (2)

304900 XRAY Gear Differential - Set ***Optional but HIGHLY recommended over the Spec-R***

372503 Composite Servo Saver - X-Stiff - Set

302653 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 6mm (2 X (2) ***used to connect inner camber links***

302654 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 8mm - V2 (2) ***use these to attach the steering links to the steering block instead of the kit method***

302655 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 10mm (2) X (2) ***front & rear outer hubs***

302253 Composite Steering Block - Hard

302086 Graphite Shock Tower Front 3.0mm

303087 T3'12 Graphite Shock Tower Rear 3.0mm

I recommend using your existing ball joints with the ball studs. So basically you need to figure out your cost on the above bits compared to the cost of a new kit.
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 12-29-2011 at 10:30 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:22 AM   #1054
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Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Yep I have tried a bunch of things...shimming out the shocks is just one on a long list of things I have tried. I will keep working at it...I think finding the right setup for each person is a matter of driving style and track conditions.

I went up from 700CST to 1000CST and this seems to be better at my track.

I will be spending another 10-12 hours at the track today working through different setup options and will let you guys knows what I come away with.
In my experience the further out you move the rear shocks the more over the nose the car drives. Looking at your sheet I recommed going back to the kit rear wheelbase and try the front wheelbase fully short. These 2 settings alone will make the car easier to drive and more consistent. Also in most circumstances with our car we almost always run the diff positions high all around which also makes the car stable while giving it more of everything.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:25 AM   #1055
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
Does anyone use these

305137 - Optional Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapter - HUDY Spring Steel

305136 - T2'008 Optional Alu Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters (2) - Hard-Coated
We use 305136 exclusively over the kit adapters. I will be weighing 305137 tonight to know if I want to try them.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:00 AM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
...I think finding the right setup for each person is a matter of driving style and track conditions.

I went up from 700CST to 1000CST and this seems to be better at my track.

I will be spending another 10-12 hours at the track today working through different setup options and will let you guys knows what I come away with.
You are right: driving style makes a big difference. The same setup on same cars on same track doesnt work for everybody.

I started with 700. My friend used directly 1000. After speaking with a German team driver I changed to 2000. On our tight technical track this makes the rear nearly too loose but it still works for me. On another track with not so tight corners I dont feel a difference, here the 2000 oil works good.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:01 PM   #1057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
So the pieces you will need to bring the car current are:

301132 T3'12 Graphite Chassis 2.5mm

301193 T3'12 Graphite Upper Deck 2.0mm

302028-O T3 Alu Upper Clamp with Adj. Roll-Center RR-FL - Orange X (2)

304900 XRAY Gear Differential - Set ***Optional but HIGHLY recommended over the Spec-R***

372503 Composite Servo Saver - X-Stiff - Set

302653 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 6mm (2 X (2) ***used to connect inner camber links***

302654 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 8mm - V2 (2) ***use these to attach the steering links to the steering block instead of the kit method***

302655 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 10mm (2) X (2) ***front & rear outer hubs***

302253 Composite Steering Block - Hard

302086 Graphite Shock Tower Front 3.0mm

303087 T3'12 Graphite Shock Tower Rear 3.0mm

I recommend using your existing ball joints with the ball studs. So basically you need to figure out your cost on the above bits compared to the cost of a new kit.
Also - 308331 (rebound hole for shocks)
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:39 PM   #1058
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Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
Built my 2012 shocks, all 4 leaked not even run yet. Ok, rebuilt again and sitting in my room, all 4 leaked again. Took out the 0-ring and the shaft and found out the o ring is too big for the shaft. It doesn't seal tight enough. Way too lose. Shaft is 3.18mm and the 0-ring seems like 3.2mm inside. What to know what is the solution? I already using another new o-ring.
Make sure you put oil in the section of the shock where the O-ring sits. Soak the O-ring etc as you assemble etc.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:28 PM   #1059
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If you bleed the shocks like the manual says, the O-rings should be soaked
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:56 PM   #1060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
So the pieces you will need to bring the car current are:

301132 T3'12 Graphite Chassis 2.5mm

301193 T3'12 Graphite Upper Deck 2.0mm

302028-O T3 Alu Upper Clamp with Adj. Roll-Center RR-FL - Orange X (2)

304900 XRAY Gear Differential - Set ***Optional but HIGHLY recommended over the Spec-R***

372503 Composite Servo Saver - X-Stiff - Set

302653 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 6mm (2 X (2) ***used to connect inner camber links***

302654 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 8mm - V2 (2) ***use these to attach the steering links to the steering block instead of the kit method***

302655 Ball End 4.9mm With Thread 10mm (2) X (2) ***front & rear outer hubs***

302253 Composite Steering Block - Hard

302086 Graphite Shock Tower Front 3.0mm

303087 T3'12 Graphite Shock Tower Rear 3.0mm

I recommend using your existing ball joints with the ball studs. So basically you need to figure out your cost on the above bits compared to the cost of a new kit.
i had the '11 with a few '12 bits on it. but to make it a full '12 kit was gonna cost me a tad over $200. it was a no brainer for me...sold the 11 and i now have a whole new car for what i would have paid in upgrades.

speaking of the '12. tuesday night i went to the track and finished putting the electronics in the car. run #1 i basically set my steering up and took a few laps. back to the pit to recharge and make sure nothing came loose. run #2 i was running times easily matching my '11 car. and this was straight out the box, not touching ANYTHING. the car was so easy to drive. im ready to hit the track tonight and see what i can do!!!
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:35 PM   #1061
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Nice to see you are all (very) happy about the kit, especially it's basic set-up. My car is almost finished, still need to decide which ESC to buy before I can try it
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Old 12-30-2011, 04:15 AM   #1062
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Can anyone tell me what other brand spur gears bolt straight in apart from the XRAY gears. I need a 69 tooth (48 pitch) spur.
The kimborough spurs are too wide and foul the belts. Only the RW spurs appear narrow enough to fit.
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Old 12-30-2011, 04:35 AM   #1063
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I'm using a serpent 75t spur at the moment.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:12 AM   #1064
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I'm using a serpent 75t spur at the moment.
Thanks
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:42 AM   #1065
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How do the ECS shafts compare to the stock shafts in terms of durability?
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