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Old 12-14-2011, 02:45 PM   #976
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Much better than my description Phil....Bravo!

Thanks!

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Old 12-14-2011, 03:03 PM   #977
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I'm running 2mm of bump steer shims. Based on the description above, would adding another 1mm-2mm give me more mid and exit steering?
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:41 PM   #978
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Hello can one of the Xray enthusiast please answer my question?

I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?

Many thanks in advance...!

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 12-14-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 12-14-2011, 04:25 PM   #979
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Thanks EA, it's one of the settings I've been playing with recently both in RC and whilst working on the design of my university's FSAE car suspension.

M-Technic,

I would certainly try 3mm. Compared to 2mm it will give more outside wheel lock in roll (due to less bump toe out). This will result in more mid corner steering, but when the chassis levels as your coming out of the corner it won't have as much of an effect.

Be careful if you try using more than 3mm. If you go past the point where the link is parallel with the lower wishbone then you will start to get toe in on the outside wheel during roll. This is a destabilising geometry due to the fact it adds steering lock to the outside wheel as the car rolls, encouraging more roll, which in turn adds more lock!
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:06 PM   #980
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Default Problem installing sterring servo ATTN ALL

I have built several tc, etc. and I have never ran into this

I tried to install a Savox servo, standard size, and the servo to steering link rubs the top deck causing the chassis to flex. It appears that the servo saver is too big (center ball link hole) and that this center position should be closer to the spline of the servo...........

Maybe I'm a dumba** and not seeing the bigger picture, but I spent the last 3 hours trying to figure this out....I'm going to use this car for the snowbirds and I'm in a pickle, as I'm trying to get this problem firured out so I can race this upcoming Sunday. I also used same servo for my tc6.

Thanks for any help, which I will buy you a beer at snowbirds
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:15 PM   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I have built several tc, etc. and I have never ran into this

I tried to install a Savox servo, standard size, and the servo to steering link rubs the top deck causing the chassis to flex. It appears that the servo saver is too big (center ball link hole) and that this center position should be closer to the spline of the servo.........
Make sure the "Composite Dual Servo Saver Arms"(part #302526) are not on upside down. Someone had this issue earlier in the thread and they had the arms on the wrong way.
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:08 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I have built several tc, etc. and I have never ran into this

I tried to install a Savox servo, standard size, and the servo to steering link rubs the top deck causing the chassis to flex. It appears that the servo saver is too big (center ball link hole) and that this center position should be closer to the spline of the servo...........

Maybe I'm a dumba** and not seeing the bigger picture, but I spent the last 3 hours trying to figure this out....I'm going to use this car for the snowbirds and I'm in a pickle, as I'm trying to get this problem firured out so I can race this upcoming Sunday. I also used same servo for my tc6.

Thanks for any help, which I will buy you a beer at snowbirds
Don't throw anything at me... you have the servo in the right way arround?
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:21 PM   #983
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Holy smokes, I did in fact have them upside down....I really appreciate all the help as I would of never figured this out!!! Well if you're going to be at snowbirds I owe you some cold ones Thanks for your help
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:25 PM   #984
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Holy smokes, I did in fact have them upside down....I really appreciate all the help as I would of never figured this out!!! Well if you're going to be at snowbirds I owe you some cold ones Thanks for your help
I have a course that week for work. Unfortunately, it's not in Florida.

Glad I could help man.
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:33 AM   #985
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Hi,

Could someone please explain bump steer? How does adding or removing shims under the steering block effect the cars handling (steering on entry, exit, on power, etc)?
The other guys have given good descriptions.

If you want to see exactly how much bump steer you have, put your car on the setup station and while measuring front toe compress the suspension to see if the toe changes and by how much.

Using 2mm shims on the steering knuckles my toe remains exactly the same while the suspension is compressed.

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Old 12-15-2011, 03:24 AM   #986
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Hello can one of the Xray enthusiast please answer my question?

I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?

Many thanks in advance...!
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:13 AM   #987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil C View Post
Thanks EA, it's one of the settings I've been playing with recently both in RC and whilst working on the design of my university's FSAE car suspension.

M-Technic,

I would certainly try 3mm. Compared to 2mm it will give more outside wheel lock in roll (due to less bump toe out). This will result in more mid corner steering, but when the chassis levels as your coming out of the corner it won't have as much of an effect.

Be careful if you try using more than 3mm. If you go past the point where the link is parallel with the lower wishbone then you will start to get toe in on the outside wheel during roll. This is a destabilising geometry due to the fact it adds steering lock to the outside wheel as the car rolls, encouraging more roll, which in turn adds more lock!
Thanks Phil, I'll give it a try this weekend and report back.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:35 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPETRO View Post
I have built several tc, etc. and I have never ran into this

I tried to install a Savox servo, standard size, and the servo to steering link rubs the top deck causing the chassis to flex. It appears that the servo saver is too big (center ball link hole) and that this center position should be closer to the spline of the servo...........

Maybe I'm a dumba** and not seeing the bigger picture, but I spent the last 3 hours trying to figure this out....I'm going to use this car for the snowbirds and I'm in a pickle, as I'm trying to get this problem firured out so I can race this upcoming Sunday. I also used same servo for my tc6.

Thanks for any help, which I will buy you a beer at snowbirds
The top picture has the arms mounted the wrong way up, the bottom picture is correct;



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Old 12-15-2011, 09:57 AM   #989
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Thanks for the pics Skiddins, when I get home tonight I will fix this...I also just bought new servo link ballcups cause I removed them so many times trying to figure out the problem.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:37 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 View Post
Hello can one of the Xray enthusiast please answer my question?

I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?

Many thanks in advance...!
going from memory,
front holes line up with the 417, rear holes are different. Slightly narrower than a 411 and further forward, so I think its wider than the417

Just checked, front was ok but may have to adjust the rear part of the front tyre well a bit - back of the tyre may catch.

Back needs a new hole about 8 to 10mm back and outwards on about a 45deg angle

Last edited by silvalis; 12-15-2011 at 11:44 PM.
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