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Old 12-10-2011, 10:16 PM   #961
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Not another round of gramma bagging.......
I knew I would get something wrong lol
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:52 AM   #962
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Default Just posted T3 2012 4 sale

Brand New Xray T3 2012 ARTR pkg
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:36 PM   #963
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Heck no, no need to school me anymore, I believe, I stand corrected Do you have any recommendations on what we should use?
I use the Much More Joint Lube (the name sparked my attention on a shop site and I got some in. It is the thickest oil i've ever used. It seems to coat the joint very well and resists being flung off).

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=1850
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:46 AM   #964
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I have done a build review of the T3 2012 on my web site... had my first run with the car and was very impressed with how it handled using the kit carpet setup out of the box.

You can see the review here; http://rcracingni.co.uk/?p=1642

Any comments appreciated (or anything that I got wrong )
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:31 AM   #965
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Good seller, sorry to see your are selling it George. Can't wait to get up to your track again.
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:24 PM   #966
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Good seller, sorry to see your are selling it George. Can't wait to get up to your track again.
Thanks see ya soon
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:34 PM   #967
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I've been using the the Hudy Black grease that comes with the kit for ECS's and have not had any issues with it at all. I heatshrink the ECS as well, so the amount of debris that actually gets in there is very minimal. Anything wrong with using that type of grease?
I found the black grease to be very good. It seems like it has Moly (Molybdenum disulfide) in it which is what you want in a grease for this type of joint. Not sure the % amount, most greases will have 3% to 5% of moly.

By nature of the beast any CV joint needs grease and needs to be cleaned and re lubed often. Just the way it is.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:33 PM   #968
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Default Hudy Indoor Championship

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Thanks Drew
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Xray T3 2012-hudy-ind-champ-12-11-01.jpg  
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Old 12-13-2011, 01:27 AM   #969
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ALL DONE

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Old 12-13-2011, 07:48 PM   #970
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Default Turnbuckles

Has anyone came up with a the length of the turnbuckle that works best with all three positions on the new upper clamp.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:22 PM   #971
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Has anyone came up with a the length of the turnbuckle that works best with all three positions on the new upper clamp.
This is a good question. I have found that back to basics is best so far. Outer all around (like H1/L1 setup). On a very tight indoor circuit I race at, the longer links seem to make the car very lazy to drive. On the bigger tracks with wider corners, the longer links seem to work better. I just wish this car was a lot less stuck, as it really slows itself down on high grip conditions compared to the 11 and the push, especially at high speed is a bit frustrating. Its just part of having a new car that need tweaking to suit.

Last edited by maxg123456; 12-13-2011 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:17 AM   #972
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Default CPX Setup

Does anyone have a decent carpet setup for rather technical tracks and Vtec CPX tires?
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:36 PM   #973
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Default Bump steer

Hi,

Could someone please explain bump steer? How does adding or removing shims under the steering block effect the cars handling (steering on entry, exit, on power, etc)?
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:47 PM   #974
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Hi,

Could someone please explain bump steer? How does adding or removing shims under the steering block effect the cars handling (steering on entry, exit, on power, etc)?
Bump steer is caused by the steering link being angled up or down from the center of the car. If you have bump steer in the car during corner entry (when wheels are turned) and when the suspension is compressed it will usually cause the inside wheel to turn more and usually abruptly causing the car to be twitchy and/or scrub speed. By taking it out the steering is smoother on corner entry and over bumps.

Not the best description but what I feel in my own words. Mostly attributed to 12th scale. Its usually not as noticeable in TC.

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Old 12-14-2011, 02:27 PM   #975
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Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
Hi,

Could someone please explain bump steer? How does adding or removing shims under the steering block effect the cars handling (steering on entry, exit, on power, etc)?

Hi Matt,

Bump steer is controlled by the angle of the steering link in relation to the lower wishbone. If they are parallel then you will get minimum bump steer.

Looking at the links from the rear of the car at rideheight...

If they are angled up towards the outside of the car (more than the lower wishbone is) then you will get toe out during bump.

If they are angled down towards the outside of the car (again more than the lower wishbone is) then you will get toe in during bump.

In full size Motorsport most cars run zero bump steer to make the car more predictable over bumps.

In RC touring car racing, because most of the tracks are super flat, we often use the bump steer characteristic as a tuning aid during cornering. In this case the bump steer setting has the greatest effect mid corner when the chassis is a max roll...

With the T3 2012 I believe 1mm spacers are the kit setting. This gives quite a lot of toe out on the outside wheel during cornering, which results in smoother/less mid corner steering. If you run 2-3mm spacers then you get less toe out on the outside wheel during cornering, resulting in more aggressive/more mid corner steering.

Unless the car is too snatchy mid corner, I always run 2 or 3mm spacers as they tend to help maximise cornerspeed.

Hope this helps
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