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Old 12-09-2011, 12:44 PM   #946
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i got some tamiya anti wear grease left over u think that would work on my ecs shafts?
Yep. It's the stuff Tamiya uses on their CVD's.
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:56 PM   #947
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What do you guys do about wheels that want to rub on the front camber links? Grind the rim down on a truer?
I use a tool made for beveling or deburring plastic pipes. The one I have easily bevels the inside of the rim to make clearance.

Similar to this:

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CHEQ8wIwBg
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:04 PM   #948
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What do you guys do about wheels that want to rub on the front camber links? Grind the rim down on a truer?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Joint-w-Hole-4
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:18 PM   #949
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
I use a tool made for beveling or deburring plastic pipes. The one I have easily bevels the inside of the rim to make clearance.

Similar to this:

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CHEQ8wIwBg
Huh, I have one of those in my bag. I'll give it a try.


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Yeah, I'm using those, they don't help.
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:06 PM   #950
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Huh, I have one of those in my bag. I'll give it a try.



Yeah, I'm using those, they don't help.
The tool is okay for club racing but keep in mind that at any control tire race you can't modify the rim in any way. Grinding any material off the rim will induce more flex into it and change the handling of the car. I have always told people when using our ball studs that even though the instructions for the VBC's state to use the round ball cups to use the stock ball cups instead that came with cars previous to the '12. This is because the non-rounded cups create a flat plane which allows you to run as much as 3mm worth of shims on the front hubs and 5mm or more on the rear hubs without rubbing the inside of the rim and violating any rules.
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 12-10-2011 at 07:43 AM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:16 PM   #951
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Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
i got some tamiya anti wear grease left over u think that would work on my ecs shafts?
NO, don't use that stuff on the ECS's! The stiction rate is too high due to the constant angle change and movement of the ECS's. I use a high quality bearing lube made by Trackstarrc.com. I have found that grease attracts debris which can inhibit fluid movement of the joints of all drive shafts and it's time consuming to clean off. So the oil is nice and light and naturally has better coverage and is easy to clean off with motor spray / brake cleaner and doesn't attract debris like grease does.
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 12-09-2011 at 05:29 PM. Reason: missing punctuation marks
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:37 PM   #952
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
What do you guys do about wheels that want to rub on the front camber links? Grind the rim down on a truer?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
The tool is okay for club racing but keep in mind that at any control tire race you can't modify the rim in any way. Grinding any material off the rim will induce more flex into it and change the handling of the car. I have always told people when using our ball studs that even though the instuctions for the VBC's state to use the round ball cups to use the stock ball cups instead that came with cars previous to the '12. This is because the non-rounded cups create a flat plane which allows you to run as much as 3mm worth of shims on the front hubs and 5mm or more on the rear hubs without rubbing the inside of the rim and violating any rules.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20V2%20%288%29

Thats the 4.9mm open end for the outside upper camber links. Its what was used on the old car and like Fred said allows you to raise the outside a lot higher than the ball cups do.

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Old 12-09-2011, 09:26 PM   #953
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
NO, don't use that stuff on the ECS's! The stiction rate is too high due to the constant angle change and movement of the ECS's. I use a high quality bearing lube made by Trackstarrc.com. I have found that grease attracts debris which can inhibit fluid movement of the joints of all drive shafts and it's time consuming to clean off. So the oil is nice and light and naturally has better coverage and is easy to clean off with motor spray / brake cleaner and doesn't attract debris like grease does.
The correct think to say is that the viscosity of Tamiya AW is to great for that application. I wouldn't normally correct people but I'm not a fan of the word stiction. All in good humour
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:08 PM   #954
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The correct think(g) to say is that the viscosity of Tamiya AW is too great for that application. I wouldn't normally correct people but I'm not a fan of the word stiction. All in good humour
Not another round of gramma bagging.......
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:14 PM   #955
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Not another round of gramma(r) bagging.......
Looks to be the case ..
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:24 PM   #956
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Looks to be the case ..
I did that on purpose just to spike things up. Really..... I did.....

Betcha you read over your 5 words a thousand times before posting.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:55 AM   #957
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It's a running change so the part number is the same, do be sure and confirm that what you are getting are the blue ones. FYI I have orderd pins from mcmaster before and had the cut to lenth and a notch cut into them. The pin stock I got from them was junk and worse than our V2 pins, so caveat emptor!

ECS Drive Shaft Pin 1.5 x 8.5 - V3

ECS Drive Shaft Pin 1.5 x 9 - V3
Since it is a running change does anyone know what shops have the new v3 in stock?
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:39 PM   #958
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
NO, don't use that stuff on the ECS's! The stiction rate is too high due to the constant angle change and movement of the ECS's. I use a high quality bearing lube made by Trackstarrc.com. I have found that grease attracts debris which can inhibit fluid movement of the joints of all drive shafts and it's time consuming to clean off. So the oil is nice and light and naturally has better coverage and is easy to clean off with motor spray / brake cleaner and doesn't attract debris like grease does.
Fred to correct you a little on grease and lube oils. The purpose of grease is to stay in place to lubricate. The reason for different viscosity of grease has many factors such as pressure and speed of the item in need of lubrication along with the application method and operating temperatures to name a few.

The reason you do not see any debris on the LCD's with oil is because it has flung off, so nothing will stick to something that is not there. Yes the grease will attract debris however it will lubricate better and will need to be cleaned and replaced most often for ideal wear.

Grease is actually contains thickeners to hold/suspend the oil that is the lubrication properties. Of course there are other additives and anti-wear compounds in the grease for different applications.

What one should be looking for is a grease that would not change the amount of movement of force during angle change.

I am in the lubricant business so if you need further technical info I can get that.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:57 PM   #959
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Fred to correct you a little on grease and lube oils. The purpose of grease is to stay in place to lubricate. The reason for different viscosity of grease has many factors such as pressure and speed of the item in need of lubrication along with the application method and operating temperatures to name a few.

The reason you do not see any debris on the LCD's with oil is because it has flung off, so nothing will stick to something that is not there. Yes the grease will attract debris however it will lubricate better and will need to be cleaned and replaced most often for ideal wear.

Grease is actually contains thickeners to hold/suspend the oil that is the lubrication properties. Of course there are other additives and anti-wear compounds in the grease for different applications.

What one should be looking for is a grease that would not change the amount of movement of force during angle change.

I am in the lubricant business so if you need further technical info I can get that.
Heck no, no need to school me anymore, I believe, I stand corrected Do you have any recommendations on what we should use?
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:35 PM   #960
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I've been using the the Hudy Black grease that comes with the kit for ECS's and have not had any issues with it at all. I heatshrink the ECS as well, so the amount of debris that actually gets in there is very minimal. Anything wrong with using that type of grease?
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