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Old 12-02-2011, 08:38 PM   #826
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Hard work doing a setup sheet on an ipad

1) Didn't mean shim under the front end suspension mount, I've amended a couple of changes!!

2) yes - although run with 2mm in front on Rear on tight track

3) gives more steering

4) 0.00 or will run -0.75mm if grip low - this is what I meant by lowering rear pins

Sorry for the confusion, pm me if you need any other help
Hi Its me again !! you say putting a 2mm shim behind the front shocks gives more steering, but in the xray instruction book it says doing this will decrease steering but make the car easier to drive ?? do you just use a standard 2mm shim on the front shock tower and the front lower arm to do this, Ive never tried it before so im curious.
Thanks again for all you help
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:32 PM   #827
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Hi Its me again !! you say putting a 2mm shim behind the front shocks gives more steering, but in the xray instruction book it says doing this will decrease steering but make the car easier to drive ?? do you just use a standard 2mm shim on the front shock tower and the front lower arm to do this, Ive never tried it before so im curious.
Thanks again for all you help
Using any shim between the shock and tower in the front will reduce initial steering and generate more on-power steering. We normally only use the shim at the top and it also serves to make the shock as vertical as possible.
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:41 AM   #828
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Using any shim between the shock and tower in the front will reduce initial steering and generate more on-power steering. We normally only use the shim at the top and it also serves to make the shock as vertical as possible.
Yeah, Fred is right, just makes the car much smoother to drive.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:34 AM   #829
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This is probably a dumb question, but I need to ask it

I understand when you build the shocks and put them on the car you mark both shocks so when you twist them to adjust the ride height you keep them exactly the same.

Is this correct? reason I ask is that when I check the ride height after both are adjusted evenly one side is a TAD different to the other and slightly uneven and I was thinking this was because maybe there is more weight in one side of the car as opposed to the other.

So is it safe to adjust each corner individually without worrying about going off the marks to try and keep them the same?

Thanks, i look forward to your reply.

Regards
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Old 12-03-2011, 07:43 AM   #830
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Originally Posted by NR View Post
This is probably a dumb question, but I need to ask it

I understand when you build the shocks and put them on the car you mark both shocks so when you twist them to adjust the ride height you keep them exactly the same.

Is this correct? reason I ask is that when I check the ride height after both are adjusted evenly one side is a TAD different to the other and slightly uneven and I was thinking this was because maybe there is more weight in one side of the car as opposed to the other.

So is it safe to adjust each corner individually without worrying about going off the marks to try and keep them the same?

Thanks, i look forward to your reply.

Regards
Nathan
I've never been too concerned about marking the collars and then trying to make sure both markings end up in the same place. What I have found is that if your car is balanced left to right then the collar will have the same general amount of space between it and the cap. So although I do look look at this space and verify that there isn't a huge disparity between both sides on each end of the car when there has been naturally something is wrong. To have the collars within a half turn of each other is good. Also I recommend to get into a habit of checking your shock lengths to ensure they aren't too far off. I usually check the shock lengths when I change oil or freshen up my shocks.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:44 AM   #831
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
I've never been too concerned about marking the collars and then trying to make sure both markings end up in the same place. What I have found is that if your car is balanced left to right then the collar will have the same general amount of space between it and the cap. So although I do look look at this space and verify that there isn't a huge disparity between both sides on each end of the car when there has been naturally something is wrong. To have the collars within a half turn of each other is good. Also I recommend to get into a habit of checking your shock lengths to ensure they aren't too far off. I usually check the shock lengths when I change oil or freshen up my shocks.
On my car the LRear shock collar has always been screwed down more than the Rrear collar to have the correct ride height. Is this a problem? Car handles well and nothing appears to be bent. Thanks
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:54 AM   #832
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On my car the LRear shock collar has always been screwed down more than the Rrear collar to have the correct ride height. Is this a problem? Car handles well and nothing appears to be bent. Thanks
Haywood,

There should not be big differences between the shock collars. (Maybe half a turn on each side) Make sure the droop is the same left to right, camber is set properly, shock lengths are the same, pivot pins are not bent, wishbones move up and down freely and that roll bars are not bent.
Instead of tightening the Left Rear shock by one turn only, tighten the Left rear and front right by half a turn instead.
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Old 12-03-2011, 07:52 PM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
I've never been too concerned about marking the collars and then trying to make sure both markings end up in the same place. What I have found is that if your car is balanced left to right then the collar will have the same general amount of space between it and the cap. So although I do look look at this space and verify that there isn't a huge disparity between both sides on each end of the car when there has been naturally something is wrong. To have the collars within a half turn of each other is good. Also I recommend to get into a habit of checking your shock lengths to ensure they aren't too far off. I usually check the shock lengths when I change oil or freshen up my shocks.
Thanks Fred, much appreciated

Nathan
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:28 PM   #834
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So who in the US has the best price on the 12? Looking to possibly upgrade soon.
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:31 PM   #835
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Just built my T3 2012 today, and the car went together in typical Xray fashion, awesome! I did however have about a half a dozen screws that had messed up threads out of the package which was a first out of 5 Xray kit builds. No big deal though I had a ton extra. Can't wait until I get this thing on the track!
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:37 AM   #836
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What is the actual rating of Moorespeed Red springs?
MooreSpeed Grey 268g, Red 301, Purple 316, Black 330

Sorry for delay.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:25 AM   #837
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Hi, can anybody post a decent setup for foams and outdoor track ?

Thank you in advance

Last edited by nosequehacer; 12-05-2011 at 05:04 PM. Reason: terrible writing กกก
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:33 AM   #838
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That servo saver is nasty. My fingers hurt.

Instead of building it as per manual on the small bit w/ the spline adapter, try building it onto the big bit where the ball end holes are. Much easier.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:05 AM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Using any shim between the shock and tower in the front will reduce initial steering and generate more on-power steering. We normally only use the shim at the top and it also serves to make the shock as vertical as possible.
Fred,
what's the diff in feel from 1 to 2mm shim?

bigger shim, less initial?
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:54 AM   #840
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Fred,
what's the diff in feel from 1 to 2mm shim?

bigger shim, less initial?
Yep.
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