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Old 11-23-2011, 08:23 AM   #646
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100% Agree with you!
Yokemad, i took your advise on the chassis upgrade and the car is the best i've ever driven. Car felt better all over the track. i took the stock set up for the '12 and modified it slightly. i was 2 tenths faster on my second lap driving the car, 4 tenths over all, after getting used to it, from my '11. The '12 is a must have. Thanks
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:32 AM   #647
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Doing some testing with the new car today cant wait
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:36 AM   #648
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np mate,glad if I help you a bit
After struggling with aftermarket chassis ,first time after a long time I enjoyed racing again this week with
2012 chasis...
Real CF rulez
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:52 AM   #649
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Before I go too crazy, building the front end, the arms front and rear are not dropping freely. I have only the arms on now. When the screws are tightened they bind up. Now the arms move freely on the hinge pins so that is good, there's just some binding between the hinge pin holders and the arms. My building experience tell me to lightly sand (2000 grit) the ends of the arms till they move freely. Any other methods? or am I doing something wrong?

Sorry for the newbie-ish question...just been a while.
Whenever I tighten the screws on the pivot pin holders, do them both up, now loosen one of them, apply some pressure to the wishbone (as if pushing the wishbone length way to change the wheelbase), in the direction of the pivot block you just loosened and while holding that pressure, re-tighten the screw.
Now repeat with the other pivot black as necessary.
Repeat on the other side of the car.

You should now have a wishbone that is loose enough to move freely but without slop.
If there is too much slop, repeat the procedure but with less pressure on the wishbone.

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Old 11-23-2011, 10:54 AM   #650
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You may also try the build tip of tapping the arms lightly with a screwdriver handle in order to ensure that the holders are seated properly square to the arm....

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2872
Yes, this tip always worked for me: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?p=41851#p41851
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:55 AM   #651
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Whenever I tighten the screws on the pivot pin holders, do them both up, now loosen one of them, apply some pressure to the wishbone (as if pushing the wishbone length way to change the wheelbase), in the direction of the pivot block you just loosened and while holding that pressure, re-tighten the screw.
Now repeat with the other pivot black as necessary.
Repeat on the other side of the car.

You should now have a wishbone that is loose enough to move freely but without slop.
If there is too much slop, repeat the procedure but with less pressure on the wishbone.

Skiddins
Sometimes you may have to loosen the crossbar screws (the one threw the chassis), loosen them then retighten. I had one car that was very tight and this sorted out the issue.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:48 AM   #652
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Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
Doing some testing with the new car today cant wait
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #653
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Ran the car last sat... Nice!!

Quick question my servo link seems to be to long, I like my servo saver at 12:00. I used a camber link ( had a spare ). Now it's perfect, am I the only one?
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:23 PM   #654
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
Ran the car last sat... Nice!!

Quick question my servo link seems to be to long, I like my servo saver at 12:00. I used a camber link ( had a spare ). Now it's perfect, am I the only one?
I had to screw mine completely down. When I mean down I mean I held the plastic with a wrench and screwed the turnbuckle in until it actually stopped, then I repeated it on the other side. It worked perfect.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:35 PM   #655
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
Ran the car last sat... Nice!!

Quick question my servo link seems to be to long, I like my servo saver at 12:00. I used a camber link ( had a spare ). Now it's perfect, am I the only one?
I converted my T3'11 so I bought some new steering link's, and Dremel'd them down by a couple of mm each end, then screw the rod ends onto them.#

Than manual say's that the link from servo to steering should be around 58mm, but that's too long.
Mine is roughly 55mm

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Old 11-23-2011, 02:08 PM   #656
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I converted my T3'11 so I bought some new steering link's, and Dremel'd them down by a couple of mm each end, then screw the rod ends onto them.#

Than manual say's that the link from servo to steering should be around 58mm, but that's too long.
Mine is roughly 55mm

Skiddins
Agreed - had the same issue! Was the only floor in a superb build.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:13 PM   #657
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I had to screw mine completely down. When I mean down I mean I held the plastic with a wrench and screwed the turnbuckle in zuntil it actually stopped, then I repeated it on the other side. It worked perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I converted my T3'11 so I bought some new steering link's, and Dremel'd them down by a couple of mm each end, then screw the rod ends onto them.#

Than manual say's that the link from servo to steering should be around 58mm, but that's too long.
Mine is roughly 55mm

Skiddins

I guess I wasn't the only one.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:08 PM   #658
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Hey guys i didnt want to start a new thread for this but im just wondering whats acceptable in your opinnions when ordering online ...for example if you order something online lets say on a monday and u pay for 35 bucks for the fastest shipping whats the acceptable time that online company should ship out to you....for example if i order on a monday if its not shipped by tuesday nite im pissed...is this reasonable or should i be more patient.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:46 PM   #659
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Hey guys i didnt want to start a new thread for this but im just wondering whats acceptable in your opinnions when ordering online ...for example if you order something online lets say on a monday and u pay for 35 bucks for the fastest shipping whats the acceptable time that online company should ship out to you....for example if i order on a monday if its not shipped by tuesday nite im pissed...is this reasonable or should i be more patient.
Different time zones dude, sometimes with online shops you will have to be patient
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:58 PM   #660
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i recently ordered some things from hk and paid for the "2-4" day delivery. they shipped my order 4 days later. Shipping did only take a few days though, after they sent it. At least my parts arrived undamaged and I didn't have to pay brokerage.

You could send a polite email asking if they got your online order. My friend ordered from the same company I ordered from and got his stuff in 3 days. He emailed to say he was going to a big race and wanted to ensure he received his order in time. I didn't email. Got my stuff in 7 days
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