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Old 11-17-2011, 07:13 AM   #541
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Is it ? wow I use only one for last couple of weeks LOL
Let me Double check it
Yea I noticed it last night night when building mine. It seems that the arm itself is thicker. I didnt get into enough to see if it was added material on top or bottom but either way it would either make your steering link to the servo higher or make your rack sit crooked (I hate when that happens ).

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Old 11-17-2011, 08:56 AM   #542
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Just checked it added material on top, alloy plate is level
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:36 AM   #543
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Default shock towers

Fred,
can you expalin a little more on why to get the new towers. I too am converting over my '11 and I didn't get the towers on my conversion. I am running on carpet w/ medium bite on rubber tires, and I am already on the lowest hole on the rear. What would be the benefit of having that 1 extra lower hole. I run 17.5 blinky.

let me know, and thanks for your info on this forum, i have found it very useful.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:44 AM   #544
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. I too am converting over my '11 and I didn't get the towers on my conversion. I am running on carpet w/ medium bite on rubber tires, and I am already on the lowest hole on the rear. What would be the benefit of having that 1 extra lower hole. l.

Or you could carefully drill another hole, if you make a mistake buy a new tower, what you got to loose

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Old 11-17-2011, 12:40 PM   #545
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Just got mine together last night...LOVE LOVE LOVE!! I only got to play with it in brief, I cvan't wait to hit the track up this weekend but so far I am impressed.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:42 PM   #546
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Fred,
can you expalin a little more on why to get the new towers. I too am converting over my '11 and I didn't get the towers on my conversion. I am running on carpet w/ medium bite on rubber tires, and I am already on the lowest hole on the rear. What would be the benefit of having that 1 extra lower hole. I run 17.5 blinky.

let me know, and thanks for your info on this forum, i have found it very useful.
I'm glad to be of assistance On 99% of my setups I have found the best balance for shock positions on the towers to be 3 hole front and 1 hole rear in both mod and stock. In the front the more laid down the shock it will generate more initial steering and in the rear the more laid down the shock it will generate more on-power steering. Since I use push brake in both motor classes I typically want lots of on-power steering but on some high bite tracks (WC, Norcal) and even low bite tracks I use more initial steering as well.
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:24 PM   #547
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I'm glad to be of assistance On 99% of my setups I have found the best balance for shock positions on the towers to be 3 hole front and 1 hole rear in both mod and stock. In the front the more laid down the shock it will generate more initial steering and in the rear the more laid down the shock it will generate more on-power steering. Since I use push brake in both motor classes I typically want lots of on-power steering but on some high bite tracks (WC, Norcal) and even low bite tracks I use more initial steering as well.
Interestingly, last weekend my car using ride 25 tyres was really biting on corner entry whilst my shocks were in the middle hole at the front, I laid them down as far as I could and it smoothed it out no end, seemed to give me less initial steering

One thing I've realised, what something does for one person, doesn't always do the same for the next, a big part of it depends on driving style.
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:29 PM   #548
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Interestingly, last weekend my car using ride 25 tyres was really biting on corner entry whilst my shocks were in the middle hole at the front, I laid them down as far as I could and it smoothed it out no end, seemed to give me less initial steering

One thing I've realised, what something does for one person, doesn't always do the same for the next, a big part of it depends on driving style.
Exactly! Give this man a cigar!!!
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:50 PM   #549
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Hi guys

So I'm looking to pick up a new t3 2012, i was always a tamiya owner and now am looking to try something new, i race on carpet in rubber tire 17.5 blinky class, and also 17.5 boosted, my question is what are all the best upgrades to get for the car as I'm not to familiar with all the xray stuff. and also are all the option parts for the t3 and t2 compatible,thanks in advance to your responses.
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:55 PM   #550
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ECS Drive shafts other than that Nothing else
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:56 PM   #551
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Hi guys

So I'm looking to pick up a new t3 2012, i was always a tamiya owner and now am looking to try something new, i race on carpet in rubber tire 17.5 blinky class, and also 17.5 boosted, my question is what are all the best upgrades to get for the car as I'm not to familiar with all the xray stuff. and also are all the option parts for the t3 and t2 compatible,thanks in advance to your responses.
Hard bumper, either the aluminum or steel spool outdrives (or someone elses version). Most of the T2 option parts will work on the T3. There is a cross reference compatibility chart on the Xray site.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:00 PM   #552
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Guys I'm using Futaba A9551 low profile, when you make a full right turn the middle part of servo link (turnbuckle) touch the bottom part of top deck, anyone have the same issues? Any solution ?
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:08 PM   #553
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Edit' when turning left servo link touch the top deck

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Old 11-17-2011, 04:15 PM   #554
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mine runs real close, if it is interfering with the steering change the adjuster link to a 3mm threaded stud between the two ball cups, that should work
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:47 PM   #555
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Edit' when turning left servo link touch the top deck

WHat position is the link attached to on the servo saver?
Can you take the photo from the other side so we can see the link etc.
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